Best D16 model?

[richie0801]

Hello, I am ready to buy and have heard that different D16s have different bracing. I think I like the mahogany sound best, but am open. I am ready to buy but am wondering, which model is best?

D16gt, D16M, D16???

Thanks!


Btw, I also heard a D16h and it sounded killer, but I can't find one for sale anywhere.

[mds08]

I had an older D16R. It was a very nice Martin and I miss it dearly. if you can find one try one out.

[theoscarpaco]

Someone with more knowledge than me will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the D-16's made in the late 80's/early 90's were much different than the M/T 16's of today. They featured dovetail neck joints and had forward shifted, scalloped bracing. If you can find one of these (they didn't make very many) you might have a killer guitar on your hands!

[Br1ck]

Can't remember the model, but they made an Adi topped one a couple of years ago that was outstanding. Best 16 I've played. Hunt one down.

[SFCRetired]

Originally Posted by richie0801

Hello, I am ready to buy and have heard that different D16s have different bracing. I think I like the mahogany sound best, but am open. I am ready to buy but am wondering, which model is best?

D16gt, D16M, D16???

Thanks!


Btw, I also heard a D16h and it sounded killer, but I can't find one for sale anywhere.

I saw a D16H for sale yesterday somewhere, sorry I don't recall where now. Ebay, reverb, or it may have even been on craigslist somewhere, ( Nashville maybe??) The D16M is an older version, the M stands for mahogany I believe. And someone correct me if I am wrong but I think the older D16's were also satin finish where as now the GT stands for Gloss top.

They had D16N D16m D16T (which stands for technical I think I read somewhere, so it really has no meaning per se), and some others that I am missing as well. The basic D16GT is mahogany, the ones with an R in it are Rosewood, but I don't think they make them anymore so you will have to go used.

As far as which is best, I don't think there is a best, just different. But to get one without micarta or richlite you have to go back to pre 2000, IIRC. And those seem to be coveted by purists, and they come with a premium price usually. The D16GT is, in my opinion, bass heavy. I don't know if it's because of the mahogany, which to my ears sounds more bassy, or the bracing.

[fd943]

Originally Posted by Br1ck

Can't remember the model, but they made an Adi topped one a couple of years ago that was outstanding. Best 16 I've played. Hunt one down.

HD-16R I think they make em' with mahogany back too. I've got the RW model and I've owned several of the standard 16 series and the HD is WAY different!

[Zissou Intern]

The original D16's from the mid 80's to early 90's are all excellent guitars. They have forward shifted, scalloped braces with a 1 11/16" nut, just like the D18V. The ones I have seen and played were light weight, and had the classic Martin tone. These older D16's are very different than the current 16 series with A-frame bracing. I think A-frame was introduced around '95.

They came in several wood choices: D16M (mahogany); D16H (herringbone purfling); D16K (koa); D16A (ash). The one D16A model I played was killer! I wanted to trade for it, but the owner was having none of that.

[L20A]

Originally Posted by fd943

HD-16R I think they make em' with mahogany back too. I've got the RW model and I've owned several of the standard 16 series and the HD is WAY different!

This one.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guita...coustic-guitar

[richie0801]

Originally Posted by theoscarpaco

Someone with more knowledge than me will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the D-16's made in the late 80's/early 90's were much different than the M/T 16's of today. They featured dovetail neck joints and had forward shifted, scalloped bracing. If you can find one of these (they didn't make very many) you might have a killer guitar on your hands!

I have heard the same thing! I'm curious, how would the bracing change and dovetail rather than m/t impact the tone?

[SFCRetired]

The new D16's are x braced. And the joint change was for cost. There is nothing wrong with a MT joint and they are actually less expensive to do a neck reset on. But some will disagree with that.

They also have a bolt/screw that Martin says is only there until the glue dries but they leave them in so they don't have to have someone take them out.

The consensus at UMGF is this is poppy ****, that screw is part of the holding process because anyone who has ever had one back out will tell you they are for stability.

And as an FYI I don't think they even use the MT on them anymore, they use what they call a simple dovetail whatever that is. It seems to me I read they don't use a MT anymore on anything, but don't quote me on that because I don't actually know for sure.

And I was wrong, they do still make a RW version. And I don't know when they made the change to simple dovetail. That will have to be answered by a pro or by calling Martin.

[ataylor]

Originally Posted by Br1ck

Can't remember the model, but they made an Adi topped one a couple of years ago that was outstanding. Best 16 I've played. Hunt one down.

I think it was called the D-16A. My friend has one and it's fantastic. It's basically a D-18 and sounds the part.

[posternutbag]

If you are OK with the matte finish and the 1 11/16" nut, the D-16H '94 is a tremendous guitar.

[llew]

The now discontinued D-16 Adirondack...happen to have one for sale if you're interested? 1.75" nut/2.25" spacing at the saddle.

[martingitdave]

Originally Posted by GrandpaD

This one.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guita...coustic-guitar

+1 This is a heckuva guitar.

[Steely Glen]

For me, the specs of a HD-16R with the addy top look amazing, and the LSH (Large Sound Hole) model is a cool one too. If I ever find a HS-16R LSH at a good price, I'll probably buy it.