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Would you buy a guitar that has not been humidified?
I am looking at a ten year old D-28. It appears to be in great shape, but the owner says he has not kept it humidified (I appreciate his honesty). He did say he kept it in his house and avoided extreme temperatures. I was planning on getting a local tech to check it out, but wanted to ask you all, would you even consider buying a ten year old Martin that has not been humidified? If you were to consider it, what signs of problems would you be looking for?
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2013 Martin 00-15M 2013 Martin OM21 2013 Martin D-18 2002 Martin HD-28 2000 Larrivee Parlor P-01 1976 Guild D35 SB Blueridge BR-43 "I just want one more guitar..." |
#2
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Humidity question
It depends where you live and how the fella keeps his house. It's a good idea to take it to a good luthier, but any long term humidity related issues should be pretty easy to pick up on. Gaps, loose braces, unusual top shape or bellying, etc.
See what the luthier says and let us know. |
#3
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I've got a 43 year old D-28 which has rarely been "humidified". It grew up in the Ohio River Valley with an occasional apple in the guitar case. It moved to Coastal Northern California and humidity was nothing I ever thought about until the 2000's and started reading guitar forums. Where did this guitar grow up? Quote:
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Humidity is WAY over-emphasized on forums. |
#4
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Would you buy a guitar that has not been humidified?
How much humidification a guitar needs depends on the environment in which it been kept. If the guitar has been dried out, it will reveal symptoms. The most obvious is cracks, belly bulge or dipping in the top above the bridge. Another sign would be splits on the upper bout on either side of the fret board. Other things to look for that are less obvious would be protruding frets on the edges of the fret board. Also, bridge lift is an indications of glue deterioration caused by dry wood. This will often be accompanied by surface checking or crazing.
Glen
__________________
Yamaha FG-375S Jumbo Martin DXME/D-35E/DC Aura/000-14 Custom/D-16E Custom/ 000C Nylon/0000-28HE/Concept IV Jumbo/00-16C/D-4132SE Gibson LP Deluxe/ES-347 TD/Chet Atkins CE Fender MIA Deluxe Strat Art & Lutherie 12-string Bellucci Concert Sigma CR-7 Recording King ROS-06 FE3/RPH-05 D'Angelico "New Yorker" New Masters "Esperance SP" Hermosa AH-20 “I never met a guitar I didn't like.” |
#5
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From the southwest? Probably not. From around here? Absolutely.
I don't humidify my guitars. I do however monitor humidity levels where they are stored. If anything, my guitars are slightly over humidified in the summer months. I never thought it was a big enough deal to do anything about it. My 810ce is my oldest solid wood guitar and at 14 years old it still sings and shows no I'll effects of my "mistreatment." People on the internet make too big a deal of this humidity thing. It is important for sure but if you stray from 45-50% your guitar isn't going to fall apart.
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Taylor 810ce, 416ce LTD (sitka/granadillo), 456ce FLTD (sitka/EIR), 314ce, 324e, HV GS Mini Gretsch Honey Dipper Special Halcyon Lutz/Black Limba Dread |
#6
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What do you mean it hasn't been humidified? This, to me, infers that the guitar was kept at a too-low humidity -- is that what you're referring to? If it wasn't, why would it need to be humidified?
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Martin CEO-7, Martin 000-15sm, Gibson J-35, Ibanez AC240, Yamaha FD01S, Journey RT660 |
#7
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Would you buy a guitar that has not been humidified?
In the area that I live (NC), the indoor air can get quite dry in the winter time. That us the only season of the year I am concerned about low humidity.
__________________
2013 Martin 00-15M 2013 Martin OM21 2013 Martin D-18 2002 Martin HD-28 2000 Larrivee Parlor P-01 1976 Guild D35 SB Blueridge BR-43 "I just want one more guitar..." |
#8
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I would ask where was the guitar kept when not being played with? If its always in the case and inside the house then if everything looks good upon inspection, I would consider purchasing it.
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#9
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If the guitar checks out for lack of cracks, splits and rattles and if the normal action checking/neck checking procedures make it look good; if it intonates reasonably well, plays well, the neck doesn't look twisted - you like its sound/looks/price - go for it. |
#10
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Weigh it...
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#11
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Good idea!
And if it weighs anywhere between 3 1/2 pounds and 5 1/2 pounds - it could be a real D-28! (yes - they vary that much over the decades...) |
#12
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Few people who have humidifiers use them religiously enough to maintain a constant wood moisture content. I'm from the southwest. None of my guitars have been humidified. A couple have developed small cracks that I've repaired. Most have not, over nearly a half-century. It think it is much harder on a guitar to humidify it inconsistently than to simply let it acclimate to the local conditions.
Sooner or later, you have to take it out of the case. If it cracks, get it fixed. The reality is, if you live in a dry climate, you may get cracks no matter what you do, and if you live in a humid climate, you can get warping and swelling no matter what you do. |
#13
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RainSong
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#14
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It also depends on the environment in which it has been created. Most wood is brought to fairly dry levels before construction. Then, it's a matter of allowing the wood to reach equilibrium with the environment prior to construction. Without knowing what the shop conditions are (as distinct from the general climate conditions where a shop is located), it's difficult to predict what a particular guitar might need. If a handmade instrument, the builder should be able to offer some guidelines.
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#15
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