Slotted Headstock string winding

[Elder Gail]

I was just thinking about different technique, number of winds ,string binding, and if the number of winds affects overall tension
Just asking Gail.

[Glennwillow]

Hi Gail,

I usually have more winds on my posts than most people have. I think it helps to avoid string breakage. I use an Ernie Ball PowerPeg winder to help me with getting strings onto a slot-head guitar.

- Glenn

[Brucebubs]

When I had a Martin with a slotted headstock I tried to keep the string windings in as straight a line as possible with the nut slots.

So strings 1 and 6 wind outwards and 2,3,4 and 5 wind inwards.



Yes, the strings do come close to the headstock in some areas but they did not touch.



Note this works on a Martin but others may not have the same clearances.

[DownUpDave]

Originally Posted by Brucebubs

When I had a Martin with a slotted headstock I tried to keep the string windings in as straight a line as possible with the nut slots.

So strings 1 and 6 wind outwards and 2,3,4 and 5 wind inwards.



Yes, the strings do come close to the headstock in some areas but they did not touch.



Note this works on a Martin but others may not have the same clearances.

This is a great example of how to do things on a slotted headstock. I own a few and this is the method I use as well

[Methos1979]

I use the classic method of the outermost two strings making one wrap outside then the rest inside and then the exact opposite for the remaining inner four strings with enough winds to ensure good tension for stability and tuning. This is done to ensure no contact with the sides of the slots.

A few other tips I've learned over the years:

I do the top three first, in this order - strings 6, 5, 4 - and then the bottom three - 1, 2, 3.
For proper wind quantities, I measure out about 1.5-2 post lengths on the top three and 2.5-3 post lengths on the bottom 3.

I run the string through the hole, measure the extra distance to the next posts and then kink the string there but I do not cut the string until after I have completely wound the string. It's a bit of a pain as you need to watch that the extra string doesn't get caught up in the winds, but that's way better than realizing you've cut in the wrong place and need to now buy a new set of strings for one string. Ask me how I know!

[MC5C]

I do the same as Methos1979, below. I pull the string through the hole, which is set in line with the headstock, I cut the string 2" or so past the peg, I put a 1/4" kink in the string, I position the kink at the peg, and I wind with an old-school crank winder either in or out depending on which string. I don't bother wrapping or tying the strings onto the peg, unless it's a classical guitar with nylon strings. I look for around three full wraps around the peg.

[Silly Moustache]

Hi, as I only use 12 fret flat tops - as they provide me with the wider fretboards I need, I have somewhat studied this.

Various brands give varying widths of slots and there is more than a little "design" in making a good slotted head stock.

However, with the exception of my Harmony 12 string which falls into the "anyway you can" category I attach two images below.

I always:
1. Work on a worktop.
2. Pre-cut my strings to predetermined lengths. (see dimensions in the image.
3. Make a bend in the barrel end to ensure that there is no possibility for it to get snagged on the pin end.
4. Make a 90 degree bend about 1/4-3/8" in he cut end to enable an easy slide into the hole of the tuning machine capstan.
5. I always start from the outside in - 6,1,5,2,4,3. This makes it easier to work.
6. I like to run the strings as straight as possible over the nut rather than allow a double angle tension on the slot.

Here's a video of the process made back in 2006, BUT I've refined my process.



https://youtu.be/9v8aBwxEnQk

NOTE:

1. I no longer put all strings in the pin holes at once.
2. I've refined my cutting lengths - see 2nd pic.
3. the "stretching" is done without banging the strings against the frets and i two or more places - and I now call it "settling" the tension points - tuner to nut, nut to saddle, saddle to bridgeplate.

Hope that helps.

[Elder Gail]

Does any of this have effect on tone, playability, string life or is it all personal preference? How does scale length, string gauge, material and other variables apply if at all.
Just wondering Gail.

[Honkycat]

2 of these look right to me and 1 looks not so right.

[BrunoBlack]

This topic comes up every now and then. I’ll share my experience. There was a time when I owned 3 slot head guitars and used the method described by MC5C and Methos1979 above with great results. However after reading a number of posts about “right” and “wrong” ways to string up a headstock, I looked at what well respected builders posted (see below). I realized they didn’t have a standard way, even on their own websites. So I spoke with the builders. I was told (in language I can post on AGF) “ it doesn’t matter. Do it the way you like”

[Silly Moustache]

Originally Posted by Elder Gail

Does any of this have effect on tone, playability, string life or is it all personal preference? How does scale length, string gauge, material and other variables apply if at all.
Just wondering Gail.

Hi,
tone? playability ? Sting life? probably not.

Scale length ? Nope I have dreads to "0" do 'em all the same.
Gauge? Mediums on dreads, and reso, lights on anythig 000 and smaller.

What needs to be considered as with slab heads -is to ensure that no strings touches another.

[TBman]

Originally Posted by Elder Gail

I was just thinking about different technique, number of winds ,string binding, and if the number of winds affects overall tension
Just asking Gail.

I like to have only 3-4 wraps on a post, both paddle and slot heads. I try not to have the string wrap over itself.

[MC5C]

Forgot to answer one question - number of wraps has nothing to do with string tension. Scale length, string gauge and pitch are the only things that affect tension.

[beatcomber]

I don't do anything differently vs. paddle heads... I extend the strings about two string posts longer than needed and trim the ends, then insert and wind.

Easy peasy.

[Robin, Wales]

Most of those photos above show some strings putting a lot of tension on the tuner shaft. I'm not saying that this is "wrong" but it could lead to ovaling of the center drilling and is certainly putting additional pressure on the gearing.

I would be inclined to run the last wrap off the shaft as close to the gear side as possible and angle the nut slots accordingly. The tuners turn easier and the headstock centre drillings holding the shaft ends are under far less pressure (they are often not bushed).

As I say, I don't think other methods are "wrong" and I can see why folks would go for as straight string line as they can get. But getting the right nut slots cut. Is far cheaper than dealing with oval drillings. Plus the tuners turn easier, which is quite a bonus when you have say GAs or original old tuners fitted. Or any non bushed tuner.

I have set up and restrung somewhere around 800 slotted headstock guitars, and tried many different windings. And bringing the last wrap off the shaft as close to the gear side as practical I have come to think of as the best option. Particularly for the ease of turning the tuners and the longevity of the instrument's headstock drillings.