Custom build mistakes

[GCimera]

I am ready to pull the trigger on a Martin custom build and was wondering what I might be missing...Anyone out there order a custom guitar, get it, then wish they had added/changed/deleted some detail of the guitar?
I'm likely going with a Martin 0000 with
1. EIR/ Premium European Spruce
2. Koa bindings.
3. No pick guard
4. 1/4 inch scalloped bracing.
5. Small diamond 3-5-7th fret marker.
6. 1 3/4 at nut and 2 5/16 at saddle.
7. Mahogany Mod. V neck.
8. Simple 28 roset.
Any detail I missed? Thanks folks!

[Bruce Sexauer]

If I were building it I would challenge you re 0000 as many people find this size less friendly than a 000; bigger isn't necessarily better. But you may have done your research, I would want to be sure you had.

Koa binding are pretty, but they are a bit fragile for the job. If you are not meticulous they will be easily damaged and may not protect the structure of the guitar so well as harder material.

I do not recommend 1/4" bracing on bigger guitars. I'd add 1/32 or a bit more.

I would do either of the first two if you made a case for it, but on the 1/4 bracing I'd agree and then do it my way. In fact I've been doing exactly that for one of my main customers for years, and he keeps coming back because the guitars work so well for him.

You asked.

[CoolerKing]

Originally Posted by GCimera

I am ready to pull the trigger on a Martin custom build and was wondering what I might be missing...Anyone out there order a custom guitar, get it, then wish they had added/changed/deleted some detail of the guitar?
I'm likely going with a Martin 0000 with
1. EIR/ Premium European Spruce
2. Koa bindings.
3. No pick guard
4. 1/4 inch scalloped bracing.
5. Small diamond 3-5-7th fret marker.
6. 1 3/4 at nut and 2 5/16 at saddle.
7. Mahogany Mod. V neck.
8. Simple 28 roset.
Any detail I missed? Thanks folks!

What's the Martin CS upgrade on some other rosewood? Since EIR is used on a lot of Martins that might be a good way to differentiate yours.

[racman]

Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer

If I were building it I would challenge you re 0000 as many people find this size less friendly than a 000; bigger isn't necessarily better. But you may have done your research, I would want to be sure you had.

Koa binding are pretty, but they are a bit fragile for the job. If you are not meticulous they will be easily damaged and may not protect the structure of the guitar so well as harder material.

I do not recommend 1/4" bracing on bigger guitars. I'd add 1/32 or a bit more.

I would do either of the first two if you made a case for it, but on the 1/4 bracing I'd agree and then do it my way. In fact I've been doing exactly that for one of my main customers for years, and he keeps coming back because the guitars work so well for him.

You asked.

The only advice I can give you is to listen to any advice Bruce gives!

[Thin Crust]

Just my two cents here. If Mr. Sexauer has a recommendation on a structural aspect of the instrument, listen to him. And I want to throw my opinion out there on Koa binding. I requested it on a custom build of mine, and while visually striking it is indeed "delicate". I always referred to it as a "ding magnet", and I'm pretty careful with the handling of my guitars. And congratulations on the custom!

[Richard Mott]

Many years ago I had a Lowden that came with Koa binding. It looked lovely, dinged easily.

[Arm&Hammer]

Maybe you have already decided that 25.4" is fine, but I didn't see you mention scale length. If you decide on a 000 body, and 24.9" scale, then I would think 1/4" bracing would be appropriate (yes, I have always wanted a Martin with their OM specs, but a short scale, very different from their 000 IMO).

[invguy921]

Not certain what you are going to spend, or what your budget is, but in the end, if you want a Martin guitar and their logo, this is certainly the only way to get it. I'm sure it will be nice.

On the other hand, if you aren't STUCK on having a Martin guitar, there are a lot of GREAT builders here on AGF who could create a very nice custom guitar for you. I am not a builder nor am I trying to promote anyone in particular, I just think if you're gonna build something (or more specifically if I was), I'd sure look at a few other options.

That said, Martin does build some nice guitars and I'm sure you'll be happy however you go.

[Gerald Sheppard]

Hi Matt,

Thanks for asking. Bruce and others have offered some great advice!

I initial thought is that you may be placing your builder in a box with regard to design. Reputable custom makers will gladly replace their builder's hat with a consultant's hat during the initial stages of discussion. Talk (vocally, not via email) with the maker and give him/her a description of your playing style, what you want and need from a guitar, your method of attack, your age, health status, hand strength and size, arm length, whether you play out or not, style of music, etc. I've found videos of my clients playing to be very helpful with this regard. Then let the maker advise you on such things as scale length, bracing design (including thickness) and such. After all, that's why you will be commissioning him/her.

Also, and this is very important in my opinion - Don't use a "luthier" who can't play a guitar fairly decently. It's like taking driving advice from someone who has never had a drivers license.

[iim7V7IM7]

If you have your heart set on a "custom" CF Martin, I would offer some caution regarding setting up custom spec's on your own. While it will be a "custom" instrument, it is still a factory instrument with operations made to "spec" vs. sound and feel. You should work with a highly experienced shop who has experience configuring instruments and understands your playing style and tonal goals. You might get what you ordered but not get what you want.

Alternatively, I would recommend looking around at a number of custom luthier website (sponsor links are a great start) and see if some of their work appeals to you. There are a number of builders who specialize in traditional sounding (e.g. Martin, Gibson etc.) instruments. I would call the ones that appeal to you and see how you interact and how they suggest guitar features to address your playing needs. A good custom luthier will provide you with a better solution to your needs in my experience.

The guitar will never say "Martin" and not have the brand equity, but will more likely be the music enabling instrument of your dreams than a custom factory instrument.

My $02.

[mikealpine]

I'm sure the Martin CS will do a fine job, and there is a reason they exist. Are you the one totally spec'ing out the structural and cosmetic details, or is this what you have put together collaboratively with someone from the Martin team? If it is the former, then you need to engage your Martin point of contact and make sure what you have spec'd out will result in the guitar you hope for. As a matter of fact, I would expect that if you were asking for something that wouldn't be structurally sound, they'd refuse to build it becaue they'd have to warranty it. If it is the latter, then my expectation would be that they know how to best build their boxes and the onus is on them to deliver a terrific instrument that will hold up well over time from a structural perspective. If you choose Koa and it dings, that's not their fault.

In the end, though, I agree with Bruce Sexauer, Gerald Sheppard and Mike; the process should be consultative in nature, and the luthier should determine the "innards" and many of the other details to get you to the sound you want. Possibly, as Mike suggests, there is a certain appeal to having "Martin" on the headstock, especially from the Custom Shop, but I'd have to think that for similar dollars you can get an exquisitely built guitar from one of our resident luthiers.


Edit: Beautifully stated by iim7V7IM7, "You might get what you ordered but not get what you want."

[ewh2]

Originally Posted by GCimera

I am ready to pull the trigger on a Martin custom build and was wondering what I might be missing...Anyone out there order a custom guitar, get it, then wish they had added/changed/deleted some detail of the guitar?
I'm likely going with a Martin 0000 with
1. EIR/ Premium European Spruce
2. Koa bindings.
3. No pick guard
4. 1/4 inch scalloped bracing.
5. Small diamond 3-5-7th fret marker.
6. 1 3/4 at nut and 2 5/16 at saddle.
7. Mahogany Mod. V neck.
8. Simple 28 roset.
Any detail I missed? Thanks folks!

If you don't want to go for a Custom Martin, Gruhn's have some very interesting 0000's which they custom ordered.
http://new.gruhn.com/Inventory.aspx?Cat=aaab

[ChuckS]

My advice is start with desired tone and desired playability. When everything related to tone and playability is decided, then start thinking about aesthetics (or if you use a luthier whose work you like, just let them design the aesthetics package).

[FormerFoodie]

Lots of sage advice from others.

This may not be the best analogy, but when I commission a painting with an artist, I'd describe the essence of what I am looking for, I wouldn't give them a canvas with an image already etched for them to apply the colors on.

Same thing with a custom guitar, I'll provide the high level qualities of what I'm seeking, but will rely on them to fill out the details. They know far more about guitars then I ever will and it's important to give them the 'degrees of freedom' they need to get the most out of the build.

Like others have echoed, I believe the best custom builds are going to be collaborative rather than filling out a spec sheet and waiting.

Custom guitars are FUN! I hope you enjoy the process. There are a lot of super knowledgeable people here and you can always count on getting lots of good advice from others. (I wouldn't count me as being able to provide good advice all the time. )

This is unsolicited so I apologize in advance...If it were me, I'd find a luthier who is known for a traditional/pre-war Martin sound and commission from them directly. For the amount of money you're putting into a custom Martin, I think you may be able to find something of better quality in a luthier built guitar than from a production shop. The trade-off should be favorable - e.g. I suspect the gains in the tone of the instrument will far out outweigh the incremental cost (if any?). One of the conclusions I came to years ago was that given the cost of high-end Taylors and Martins, I'd much rather go with a small production shop like Collings, Bourgeois, than a factory built guitar. This doesn't mean that Taylors and Martins are not capable of building great guitars, they are. It's just that I feel my chances are better with a smaller shop. Nowadays, I'd much rather go with a single person shop - there are lots of amazing independent luthiers out there! YMMV.

[GCimera]

Thank you all for some great ideas and sharing your wisdom! Actually, I should note that I use the word "custom" loosely...I know I like the 0000 size Martin, Mod V neck but just can't seem to find the cutaway and euro spruce that I want. So I guess it's really more a matter of ordering a guitar with common specs that I just can't seem to find already built.
Great info regarding Koa bindings. My first thought was rosewood or maple. Might opt for one of those instead. Also going to a larger scalloped bracing makes sense if Bruce says so
One of these days I'll go to one of the wonderful builders and have one built from the ground up. Again, thank you everyone!