Martin Set up Questions

[Al Acuff]

Back to the OP's original question, yes I bought a new Martin that had an ever so slightly off neck angle. It limited how low my tech could set the action without getting buzz on the upper frets.

Since it was a minor problem a neck reset made no sense. Instead my tech removed the upper frets, leveled the fingerboard, and replace the frets. The guitar plays beautifully now. Problem solved.

I hope you just need a set up but if you do have the same problem I had it's probably fixable without a neck reset.

[aaronwinter]

Originally Posted by hornrocker

Before anything gets shaved, or sanded down - how is the string height in the upper frets, nearer the nut?

Hey, I'm just asking!

I'll be measuring that tonight.

[aaronwinter]

Originally Posted by Al Acuff

I hope you just need a set up but if you do have the same problem I had it's probably fixable without a neck reset.

I hope so too! I'm sure it will be alright.

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by aaronwinter

Two American Quarters stacked on top of each other.

Which is what, in fractions of an inch ('an American quarter' only means something to an American!)?

[aaronwinter]

Originally Posted by JayBee1404

Which is what, in fractions of an inch ('an American quarter' only means something to an American!)?

About 3 1/2 mm.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

Is this test with or without string tension?
Do you adjust the truss rod so that the neck is perfectly flat?

OP, forget the straightedge, you've already told us that there's plenty of saddle and the relief is close. Nut slots are critical, but they take some practice. It usually takes several attempts to accurately slot a nut. Let that go for now.
You need to remove twice as much from the saddle as that amount you want to lower the action. With that information, is there still plenty of saddle?

Would that everybody would forget the "straight-edge test". It is basically meaningless ... it can give wildly different readings dependent on which frets it is making contact with , whether there is a ski-jump in the fretboard extension, or whether there is fallaway. The straightedge is useful in guitar building ... irrelevant in assessing a used guitar.

There are only three measurements involved in assessing the condition of a used guitar as far as action is concerned ... namely, height from the soundboard to the underside of the D string, the action height at the 12th fret, and the amount of saddle protrusion.

These three numbers (preferably expressed in thousandths of an inch) determine whether the guitar needs a neck reset.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by aaronwinter

About 3 1/2 mm.

Earlier, you said you could fit two quarters under the string at the 12th fret.

If two quarters does in fact add up to a total height of 7mm (which translates back to .280") , then you have a huge problem unless you have a really high bridge and a really high saddle.

I cannot envisage humidity alone being the issue here... the guitar may well require a neck reset to bring it into spec.

[aaronwinter]

Originally Posted by murrmac123

Earlier, you said you could fit two quarters under the string at the 12th fret.

If two quarters does in fact add up to a total height of 7mm (which translates back to .280") , then you have a huge problem unless you have a really high bridge and a really high saddle.

I cannot envisage humidity alone being the issue here... the guitar may well require a neck reset to bring it into spec.

They actually add up to 3 1/2 mm for both. Maybe close to 4mm.

[brencat]

In terms of checking neck relief, in a pinch you can pull a dollar bill out of your wallet, fold it once and while holding down the string at the 1st and 14th, see if it passes under the low E at the 7th fret cleanly without resistance. If so, there is too much relief. (An unfolded dollar bill is ~ 0.0045")

Personally, I've found that an almost dead straight neck (relief +/- 0.003") with medium-ish action of 6/64 and 4/64ths gives an ideal balance of playability for most styles.

[Truckjohn]

Florida is REAAAAALLLLYYYY humid. As in easily over 70% rh inside.... This makes guitars swell up.. (And never mind they had a hurricane 2 weeks ago where the power was off over about half the state...). The action can go sky high.

Way up north is NOT nearly as humid as Florida.... You are doing good to stay around 45% rh - and that's in the summer.. Winter can go down into the teens when the humidifier conks out..

As such... Give it no less than a week out of the case before you adjust anything. Two would be better.. Its going to be moving all over the place...

Once it has settled down - take it to your tech for a good once over..

[Vol46]

Based on your original post, it sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what a good setup looks like & probably how to do some of the basics. I don't know anything about your skill level or what sort of tech/ luthier support you might have available in your location, but I have found that a relationship with a talented tech or luthier is really valuable. Every time that I have taken a guitar to my local guy, he has evaluated/ fine tuned things that I would have never even thought of, & invariably makes a guitar play & sound better. He does all this very inexpensively & does it while I wait & as we chat, helping me learn a bit more with each visit.
I am sure this guy is way above the norm in terms of his talent, availability, & focus on treating his customers right, but I wouldn't dream of getting a new guitar that doesn't get looked at by this guy.
I got a new D 18 last year that played & sounded great from day one, but he was still able to make a few tweaks for the better & assure me that I had chosen a great instrument.
If you can access someone with some of those same skills & traits, it may be well worth the effort you invest in finding him/ her.

[MFG]

FWIW - we employ commercial dehumidification in our warehouse and adjoining store to maintain an RH of 45% and a temperature of 75 degrees.

[Imbler]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

What IS the action at 12th - You said : but I did the quarter test and I was able to fit two quarters under the low E at the 12th fret.

Two quarters of what? Actual measurement would be more helpful.

My calipers shows the thickness of two american quarters (coins) to be .134 inches or 3.5 mm.
Mike

[Arthur Blake]

Originally Posted by Swamp Yankee

I had an easier time finding my machinist's ruler than I did finding two quarters...but I get 4/32" almost exactly.

According to Martin, string height measured from the bottom of the E bass string to the top of the 12th fret should be a minimum of 3/32" (2.38mm), with a maximum of 7/64" (2.78 mm). They say the measurement must be within this range.

At 8/64" (4/32) you're a bit over. Let the guitar settle in for a while, and then adjust the height.

[aaronwinter]

Originally Posted by Arthur Blake

According to Martin, string height measured from the bottom of the E bass string to the top of the 12th fret should be a minimum of 3/32" (2.38mm), with a maximum of 7/64" (2.78 mm). They say the measurement must be within this range.

At 8/64" (4/32) you're a bit over. Let the guitar settle in for a while, and then adjust the height.

I checked when I got home and overnight it seems to have settled a bit. I measured everything and it is within Martin specs. I will let it settle some more as suggested on this forum.

Thanks! And I'm relieved! And thanks to Jon at My Favorite Guitars!