#1
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Small Jumbo (FBFB) Full Bevel Front and Back
Hello again Forum Members,
I wanted to post photos of a new body bevel style that I completed a few months ago. I was able to complete two guitars, One is Ambrosia Maple with Sitka and the other is all Mahogany. The Ambrosia is at home being played badly every day by me and the Mahogany is headed to North Louisiana to a friend and musician to be tested and put through the ringer. I have been thinking about trying this for some time but it took a while too complete all the needed templates. All the routing is done without the use is CNC so things had to be very accurate in order for the joints to be tight. I milled enough to build 6 more guitars and hope to start on them later this year. I will try to get some sound clips but it will probably be a few weeks. I did a minimal finish of hand rubbed Lacquer with a satin finish to speed up the process since they were prototypes and I knew a lot of people would be playing them. Hope you enjoy and sorry for the poor photo quality. |
#2
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Looks great!! Didn't see the mahogany one though.
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Alvarez AP-70 Squire Contemporary Jaguar Kustom Amp (acoustic) Gamma G-25 Amp (electric) |
#3
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There's a thread about bevels impacting symmetry. This solves all of that. Looks great!
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--------------------------------------- 2013 Joel Stehr Dreadnought - Carpathian/Malaysian BW 2014 RainSong H-OM1000N2 2017 Rainsong BI-WS1000N2 2013 Chris Ensor Concert - Port Orford Cedar/Wenge 1980ish Takamine EF363 complete with irreplaceable memories A bunch of electrics (too many!!) |
#4
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Marty, Here are some photos of the Mahogany.
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#5
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Mikey likey!! Very cool design.
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"A good name is to be chosen rather than great riches, and favor is better than silver or gold." Woody (aka: Mike) FOR SALE: Kinnaird Brazilian!! |
#6
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I like the look. Ebony on the bevels? Do you have any build pics? Is it heavier than your standard build?
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#7
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Mikey likes that Mikey likes it. Thanks
Brad the weight is about 4.5 lbs about the same or less than other guitars I own. The bevel is scalloped out on the inside to reduce weight. I will try to post some build photos later tonight. Building this way requires some very accurate bending jigs but eliminates kerfing and binding the body. The Bevel Ring can be done in one solid piece or two halves. The build photos will show this. It is also necessary to have the sides pre shaped to the final radius before bending which I do any way on a regular build. What is the difference between a Carpenter and a Master Furniture Maker? 1/4". What is the difference between a Master Furniture Maker and a Guitar Maker? .050 " |
#8
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The Bevel starts out as a 3/4" by 3/4" ring in the shape of the outer body dimension. Router bits run a 1/4" recessed area on the outside .070 deep to receive the side. The area for the top and bottom are run at respective depths to accept the final soundboard edge thickness depending on tonewoods used. The inside is removed with a large cove bit to lighten and remove unwanted weight. The headblock and tail block area are left thicker to accept the matching parts so the coves match and create a smooth uninterrupted surface. Sorry for the upside down photos, been a long day. Thanks for looking, Michael Armand. Aubade Acoustics ( no web presence yet)
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#9
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Thanks for the photos. Your braces on the top look interesting also. Do you radius the ends where they meet the cove? Are they end glued? I hope you continue to post as you progress.
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#10
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Brad, thanks for the comments. The Main braces drop to 1/8 where they meet the inner edge of the bevel rings and are edge glued. They do not enter the ring. All the smaller bracing stops short. The top and bottom have a 1/4" wide ledge to glue on which I feel is plenty wide enough for support. One thing that helps to accomplish the task is to have a lot of different size router bearings and the ability to mill the outer bearing size down thousandths of an inch when needed. Having a tool to sharpen router bits helps also as they dull.
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