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  #1  
Old 10-14-2012, 12:59 PM
leray1 leray1 is offline
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Default Top Crack Help

My Gibson F-25 has a crack in the top under the lower scratch plate. Light has to hit it just right to notice, but the wood is uneven on either side of the crack. The scratch plate is essentially a cleat, but should I put a cleat on the inside or just try to get glue in the crack and clamp it to get the sides to even out?

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2012 Martin 000-28 MMV

Last edited by leray1; 10-14-2012 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:43 AM
arie arie is offline
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is the crack between the treble side plate and the bridge?
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:47 AM
leray1 leray1 is offline
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The crack is approximately where the black mark is on the picture below. It is about 3 inches long, but under the plate. I would like to stop it from spreading and would like recommendations on whether or not a cleat is necessary.

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Old 10-15-2012, 11:14 AM
arie arie is offline
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were it mine i would cleat and add a small dab of ca at each end of the crack as well. seen or not a crack is a crack.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:30 PM
Corky Long Corky Long is offline
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Default Don't use CA

I wouldn't use CA on a crack in spruce. It can wick into the fibers of the spruce and stain the top. If you cleat it it will stop the crack from spreading, and working a little Titebond into the crack will also stabilize it.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:12 PM
leray1 leray1 is offline
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Can Titebond be thinned w/ mineral spirits or the like?
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If insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results, is it insane to practice?


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Old 10-15-2012, 03:36 PM
BradHall BradHall is offline
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A good way to determine what to use to thin a product is to read the clean-up directions. Tightbond is water based. Never put a petro product on or in it, and would not expect anything good to happen if I did. But I am here to learn.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:16 PM
dbintegrity dbintegrity is offline
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Why were you looking for a crack under the pickguard anyway?

I agree no CA just some elmers wood glue or titebond.. Whenever I had a crack repair to do in the top, I would spray a little mist of water around the area, rubbed some glue thoroughly into the crack until it squeezed out the other side, used a caul on both sides, clamped and let it sit over night...most of us got a lot of practice with martin pickguard cracks... I never needed to use a cleat on there...
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:33 PM
jeff crisp jeff crisp is offline
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Unless you were planing on having visible tan lines from a permanent pickguard removal. I see no problem with C.A. and cleats and leaving the pickguard alone. Unless of course if the guitar is valuable.
Then you might want to rethink it.

Jeff.

Last edited by jeff crisp; 10-15-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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