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  #16  
Old 10-15-2017, 08:34 AM
SoCalSurf SoCalSurf is offline
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Mark, not sure if there is a way to answer this, but if the tunnel was built in 1835, the redwood tree from which it was built is much, much older than that. You later say 180 year old redwood but that was after it was cut or had fallen to be used for the tunnel.

Is there any way to find out the actual age of the the tree itself? I'd imagine, depending on its size, that it could be several hundred years old, but probably much more than that.

Anyways, as always, love your work.
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  #17  
Old 10-15-2017, 09:12 AM
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Mark, not sure if there is a way to answer this, but if the tunnel was built in 1835, the redwood tree from which it was built is much, much older than that. You later say 180 year old redwood but that was after it was cut or had fallen to be used for the tunnel.

Is there any way to find out the actual age of the the tree itself? I'd imagine, depending on its size, that it could be several hundred years old, but probably much more than that.

Anyways, as always, love your work.
The trees and the tunnel were both in Oregon. It's my understanding that these trees were cut for the tunnel so my assumption is that they were not cut that many years before but, what is the age of the wood really? At 72 grain lines per inch some of this wood grew in this tree during the Roman Empire.
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2017, 11:17 AM
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Guitars44me Guitars44me is offline
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Another VERY interesting axe from Mr. Hatcher!

I really like the Sinker Redwood on my RT2. I am sure this will be a monster axe!

Can't wait to see more...

Cheers

Paul
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  #19  
Old 10-15-2017, 01:19 PM
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Another VERY interesting axe from Mr. Hatcher!

I really like the Sinker Redwood on my RT2. I am sure this will be a monster axe!

Can't wait to see more...

Cheers

Paul
Thanks Paul, Redwood and Black Walnut make a great tonal combination (and they look good together too). Thanks for commenting!

Mark
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  #20  
Old 10-16-2017, 10:01 AM
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Mark, I love redwood, at least from a player's perspective, and have been fortunate to play some very nice guitars. Yours are typically in another class, and I am looking forward to seeing where you take this. Mostly I've played redwood paired with Macassar Ebony, in general how does Walnut vary?
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  #21  
Old 10-20-2017, 05:16 AM
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Mark, I love redwood, at least from a player's perspective, and have been fortunate to play some very nice guitars. Yours are typically in another class, and I am looking forward to seeing where you take this. Mostly I've played redwood paired with Macassar Ebony, in general how does Walnut vary?
Thanks mikealpine.

I normally think of back and side woods in the context of the difference between rosewood and mahogany. Rosewood on one side tends to have more highlights and a more crystalline sound where mahogany tends to be more articulate with emphasis on fundamentals and a sweet wood sound quality. I'm not saying one is better than the other, I love them both. I find Macassar Ebony falls closer to rosewood on the other side away from mahogany. Black Walnut lands pretty much in the middle between mahogany and rosewood. Of course, the real sound differences come from the bracing and voicing of the top and back and then what wood is used for the soundboard.
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  #22  
Old 10-20-2017, 05:23 AM
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Here is the picture of the rosette. It is African Padauk with Black Ebony borders. The inlay is Holly. This is a cut away which will add a faceted Black Ebony border to the top above the inlay;



Thanks for viewing!
Mark
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 10-20-2017 at 07:15 AM.
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  #23  
Old 10-20-2017, 10:52 AM
Dave Higham Dave Higham is offline
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How did you do the inlay? Somehow, I don't think it was with a scalpel and a Dremel.
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  #24  
Old 10-20-2017, 01:18 PM
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How did you do the inlay? Somehow, I don't think it was with a scalpel and a Dremel.
Of the four ways I am aware of to do this I have learned three. I can assure you there is no easy way. The only answer I know to best answer your question is practice, lots and lots of practice

Mark
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  #25  
Old 10-20-2017, 03:29 PM
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Now that's just pushing the boundaries of design right there!

Would love to see a zoomed out picture of the top even at this point.



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  #26  
Old 10-21-2017, 09:08 AM
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Now that's just pushing the boundaries of design right there!

Would love to see a zoomed out picture of the top even at this point.
I'll get the bigger picture up soon. It's just not ready to show yet. I'm at a stage where it just isn't clear yet where I'm going with this.
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  #27  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:45 PM
Loggerenguitars Loggerenguitars is offline
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Thumbs up WOW!!

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I'll get the bigger picture up soon. It's just not ready to show yet. I'm at a stage where it just isn't clear yet where I'm going with this.
Hi Mark, another big surprise going on here...can't wait to see what you're up to next!!
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  #28  
Old 10-23-2017, 08:55 AM
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Wow Mark that looks fantastic.
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  #29  
Old 10-24-2017, 11:42 AM
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Hi Mark, another big surprise going on here...can't wait to see what you're up to next!!
I do have something different going with the sound port and it does change the top profile so when it starts to make sense I'll post the pictures

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Wow Mark that looks fantastic.
Thanks ukejon! This will be a much different look for me when it's finished.

I shaped the back braces while voicing the guitar back today;



Here's a small collection of some of my favorite chisels and little planes that I shape braces with;



Thanks for following!
Mark
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  #30  
Old 11-03-2017, 09:48 AM
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Here is a picture of the sides I've been working on;



There is a lot going on here. You can see I've laid up some Walnut that will serve as the base for an arm bevel. I am clamping in the kerfing which are also strips of Walnut. I don't usually do solid linings but for reasons that will become apparent later this is what I am going with.
Additionally, you can see the mouth of the throated side port that I've been working on (like a dog). Starting from the mouth the hole quickly makes a left and turns up 45% so the sound will be aimed right at the player. I've been working on the tuned port idea for quite a while now. It will move more sound, a lot more efficiently. I am using the meat of the heel block and the back of the cutaway to accomplish this without adding weight or taking up too much additional room inside the guitar. I've made most of the heel block from some very lightweight Spanish Cedar to help keep the weight down and to give it nice breath .

Thanks for following along on this one!
Mark
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