EKO 12 string (1967) restoration project - Update

Karel · #1 02-25-2017, 06:09 AM

You may think that I am crazy but I intend to restore this Eko 12 string dreadnought. This is the guitar (my very first) I purchased exactly fifty years ago. After five years of playing it (even recording a first disc) with much pleasure I bought a six string and sold my Eko to a family member. And now, since yesterday, it is 'back home'. Lots of memories for me. Hitchhiked with it all over Europe in the sixties. Even with rusty decades old strings on it, it sounded remarkably warm with a nice sustain. Sweet! It shows plenty of cracks in the thick finish (no cracks in the wood!) and one small dent. I took the guitar apart which was not difficult because of the bold on neck. The tuning machines need to be replaced. The bridge is so so. I am afraid to take it off because it seems to be blind riveted to the body.

Hopefully a more experienced forum member can advise me on how to proceed. I would like to remove the old layer of lacquer completely. Should I start sanding or would it be better to use a liquid?

http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/z...g?t=1487937905

fazool · #2 02-25-2017, 06:37 AM

Charlie,

That's a wonderful idea. I did something similar on the first model of guitar I ever owned.

If you can safely remove the bridge, I would sand the entire body, restain and lacquer it.

If not, I would tape it off, and simply polish up the lacquer. Lacquer repairs nicely so you can fix the cracks too

SMan · #3 02-25-2017, 07:27 AM

I too think it is a great project. I still have my first guitar. As I recall under the wood plugs it is bolted. Use a mirror and look inside and see if you can see the nuts. I could be wrong but I also believe the rosette may have been a decal and possibly lost in refinishing.

I bought an Eko Ranger XII in Wurzburg Germany when I was in the Army in 1972 (My second guitar) and it served me well over the years. It was donated a few years back to a High School music program. Those are real tanks. I did install a Bridge Doctor to correct some bellying in the laminate top below the bridge. Good luck with your project Charlie!

BradHall · #4 02-25-2017, 07:51 AM

The bottom fastener on the bridge sure looks like a pop rivet. It can be drilled out. Check the underside with a mirror. You should see the washer and pulled up rivet end. I would definitky remove it. Not a difficult bridge to replicate, but at least get rid of the metal saddle tray.

Karel · #5 02-25-2017, 08:34 AM

Thanks, Fazool, SMan and Brad! You give me more courage to move on with the project. I do agree that lifting the bridge would be the best way to go foreward. I already did a quick internal check which made me think a saw three rivets. Need to look more thoroughly. Had not thought yet of drilling them out - that's a helpful suggestion. Would be nice to make a replica in ebony. I will keep you informed.

TEK · #6 02-25-2017, 10:26 AM

If you decide to go the sanding the finish off route be very careful, it is very easy to sand through the top lamination of wood and once you have done that there is not much you can do about it. The cracks in the nitro look better than a sanded through lamination.
Travis

Karel · #7 02-25-2017, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TEK

If you decide to go the sanding the finish off route be very careful, it is very easy to sand through the top lamination of wood and once you have done that there is not much you can do about it. The cracks in the nitro look better than a sanded through lamination.
Travis

Thanks, Travis, that's a wise warning! Meanwhile I have inspected the inside more thoroughly. Three square washers and rivet heads on the inside. Found also an old catalogue from 1967; it says 'Adjustable rosewood pinned bridge'. I think my model with the white Eko logo on the headstock and the three point pinned bridge is just a tad older than the one shown in the folder.

Tim McKnight · #8 02-25-2017, 04:25 PM

I'm not familiar with that guitar, but based on what I can see in the pics, the rosette looks like it could be either a decal or a painted on stencil. If you sand it you are likely to ruin the rosette. Paint stripper could possibly ruin it too.

BradHall · #9 02-25-2017, 05:13 PM

Should you decide to drill the rivets out, make sure you use a drill bit just slightly bigger than the dia. of the pin. Once the pin releases you can push the head up, clip it off with side cutters, and push it through the larger dia. hole. The advice about not sanding through the veneer is a good one.

pastorchuck · #10 02-25-2017, 05:20 PM

Charlie, that EKO 12 string was my first "good" guitar. I got it back in 1972. I sold it along the way and wish now that I had kept it. Youthful shortsightedness. Mine was built like a tank and had incredible tone and action. I think I sold it to get a known "brand" - an Ovation. I am following this with great interest. How did you end up getting the guitar back?

Karel · #11 02-26-2017, 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim McKnight

I'm not familiar with that guitar, but based on what I can see in the pics, the rosette looks like it could be either a decal or a painted on stencil. If you sand it you are likely to ruin the rosette. Paint stripper could possibly ruin it too.

You are right, Tim, I suppose it is a decal. I either have to cover it and sand around it or get myself a new decal. For the moment I am inclined to preserve the original depending on how it will get out when I sand the rest.

Karel · #12 02-26-2017, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BradHall

Should you decide to drill the rivets out, make sure you use a drill bit just slightly bigger than the dia. of the pin. Once the pin releases you can push the head up, clip it off with side cutters, and push it through the larger dia. hole. The advice about not sanding through the veneer is a good one.

Thanks for the tip, Brad. The only hesitation I still have with getting the bridge off, is how I will replace the rivets when replacing the bridge. I must have somewhere rivet pincers in the house but I think they only work with smaller rivets. The heads on the Eko are real big.

The sanding I would do very carefully, by hand.

Karel · #13 02-26-2017, 06:05 AM

Today I ordered new tuning machines. Quality wise I would have preferred two sets of Gotoh mini's but they become too heavy. Waverly only has 12 string strips for slotted headpegs. So I ended up with these Made in China ones. They look nice, hope they work.

Weight is a problem, because the Eko is not only built like tank it is also that heavy. Used to playing on my six string guitars ever since (which weigh each about 1.8 kg) the experience when taking the Eko in your hands is really something. It weighs almost 3.3 kg! The neck alone (incl. the present tuning machines) weighs already 1.2 kg, so I did not want to augment that with the 12 Gotohs. And after all they would not mean restoration, but upgrading...

BradHall · #14 02-26-2017, 07:47 AM

Charlie, can you post a picture of the inside showing the bracing and bridge plate? If at all possible, I would eliminate the rivets altogether. There are many good tutorials showing how to prep and glue a bridge. Frank Fords site for example. A good glue joint should be sufficient. No need for the hardware. You can also use the same bridge with some modifications. You can remove the metal tray and fill the void with a similar looking wood and cut a new saddle slot. If you want to maintain the look you can inset mushroom head plugs. The pop rivet looks like an afterthought to me. Was it original to the guitar?

Karel · #15 02-26-2017, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BradHall

Charlie, can you post a picture of the inside showing the bracing and bridge plate? If at all possible, I would eliminate the rivets altogether. There are many good tutorials showing how to prep and glue a bridge. Frank Fords site for example. A good glue joint should be sufficient. No need for the hardware. You can also use the same bridge with some modifications. You can remove the metal tray and fill the void with a similar looking wood and cut a new saddle slot. If you want to maintain the look you can inset mushroom head plugs. The pop rivet looks like an afterthought to me. Was it original to the guitar?

No, Brad, the rivets were no afterthought - well maybe, but than it was so when the guitar was being built. On the picture below I removed also the other two 'rivet hoods'. The bridgeplate is some sort of a mess; I will try to tidy it. I will certainly look into the possibility to glue the bridge and undo the guitar of unnecessary hardware. The alumium tray and the adjustable saddle on the other hand belong so much to this guitar that I think of restoring them. I know these kind of bridges are considered as cursing in the acoustic church but in this case it is part of the thing.