Ever tried a bone saddle on your carbon fiber guitar ?

[gerardo1000]

I am just curious to know the feedback from any forum member who has replaced the standard saddle of his carbon fiber guitar with bone, I would be interested to know if there has been an improvement in the acoustic, unplugged tone. Thanks !

[steelvibe]

Bone saddle on my RS Shorty. I definitely makes a difference but I don't feel it is as noticeable on carbon fiber than on a wooden instrument. I like it for durability more than anything else.

[Ted @ LA Guitar Sales]

Hi Gerardo,

When Michael Stone started selling his compensated bone saddles he was kind enough to send me one to test. At the time I had several, identical custom Rainsongs that I was able to play side by side (the only way to tell) before, and after the saddle swap on one of the guitars, and although I did hear a minor softening of the tone with bone, the difference was not enough for me to worry about.

Tone aside, many experts feel bone is a more durable material than Tusq, so that in itself could be worth the $15 to some folks.

[Captain Jim]

When going through Salt Lake City a couple years ago, I stopped to visit with Michael (his guitar shop was still open at that time). He installed a bone saddle on my Shorty... lower than the stock RainSong saddle. I didn't notice much difference in tone, but I appreciate the lower action.

I notice more difference when I try different strings... but always seem to come back to the Elixirs.

[Earl49]

I'm not sure what came on my 2001 built WS-1000. Both the saddle and nut have turned a nice medium brownish color by now, so it may be bone??? I don't think that Tusq darkens with age like that.

But I've felt no need to change it out. Of course, I've never changed any nut or saddle except when doing a set-up (that includes Martins, Taylors, CA Cargo, and Rainsongs). Most guitars are bought with the preferred sound in the first place, and I feel no need to tweak it after the fact. If you want to try bone, then by all means go for it.

Whenever I do any adjustments to action, I always save the original part intact and ONLY work on a replacement nut or saddle. That way I can always restore the original condition easily.

[sirwhale]

Originally Posted by Earl49

I'm not sure what came on my 2001 built WS-1000. Both the saddle and nut have turned a nice medium brownish color by now, so it may be bone??? I don't think that Tusq darkens with age like that.

But I've felt no need to change it out. Of course, I've never changed any nut or saddle except when doing a set-up (that includes Martins, Taylors, CA Cargo, and Rainsongs). Most guitars are bought with the preferred sound in the first place, and I feel no need to tweak it after the fact. If you want to try bone, then by all means go for it.

Whenever I do any adjustments to action, I always save the original part intact and ONLY work on a replacement nut or saddle. That way I can always restore the original condition easily.

The white Tusq saddles and nuts that I have had have browned significantly within about 2-3 years.


I also have a bone saddle in my L13. I replaced the Tusq stuff with ebony pins and the bone saddle to take off the treble edge. It worked well.

[jalbert]

I tried a bone saddle in my CA and didn't notice much of a difference. I eventually went back to the stock Tusq and used that saddle on a different guitar.

[Earl49]

Funny that you folks say they often turn brown. I have several Taylors of the same age or close, and none of them have turned brown. Most Taylors use Tusq nuts and saddles from the factory. And the few I have replaced during set up have generally been the Tusq saddles with compensated B string.

Among my guitars only the Tusq parts on the Rainsong have aged like that. The others are still cream colored like brand new. I don't think it has seen a lot of daylight or UV. The only real difference is that the Rainsong has lived out of a case for 15+ years, whereas the Taylors mostly live in their cases for humidity control.