#1
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What saw for a poor man's neck reset?
A Japanese pull-type saw? Something whose teeth will do minimal damage to the body of the guitar (teeth not sticking out on one side of the blade?) while cutting toward the fretboard? Probably something with a single row of teeth.
Any recommended model that's not expensive and good enough quality for just a little bit of use? Other suggestions for someone tackling this job for the first time? |
#2
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Suggest you search neck resets first. Really don’t use or need a saw for this.
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BradHall _____________________ |
#3
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#4
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Do you have a guitar that you don't mind ruining in the learning process? I'd get a beater to practice on first regardless of how you approach the job.
The neck really needs to come off to do this properly, if at all possible ... and then chisels/sandpaper would be used not a saw. (Look up "flossing a neck joint") Stew-mac has a "neck reset" video that shows you everything you need to know. I realize that the money a skilled luthier would charge often outweighs the value of a guitar .. but there's a reason it ain't cheap. Hope whatever approach you chose works out.
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Acoustic Instrument Caretaker My Music On Bandcamp Acoustic Guitar Forum CD - Vol. 1 For Sale: Saville Baritone |
#5
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I do prefer conventional resets, but excluding that, I am more inclined to slip the back than to saw the neck off. But it is a case by case thing. For one thing, a laminated back is more difficult to loosen without damaging it.
I have used a flush cutting saw, and I like to protect the sides with tape or thin metal sheet. |
#6
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Thanks for above advice. I would try this on a 1970s Yamaha FG200 that by its looks has had a hard life. It and my other FG200 both have very high action. Very trimmed down saddles and Bridge Doctors don't go far enough.
Local luthier recommends buying a new guitar, not spending on a neck reset. I have now acquired 4 good and usable guitars and don't use these old ones any more. I'd first try the saw-and-bolt method on the rougher of the 2 FG200s. |
#7
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Quote:
It is also dependant on what you call a poor man neck reset. I use a pull saw up through the neck heel and fein saw around possible truss rod area. Back fill with an epoxy glue and two screws, one through the centre of the neck from the front which I cover with a strap button. The other in the heel and I paint the heel cap black afterwards. Hr job max over a 1 day period for the epoxy to dry Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#8
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Getting around the truss rod is the tricky part. Just don't forget it's there and ruin your saw by hitting it. I like to use tape on the sides and as soon as the flush cut saw hit's it you will know as it pulls the tape away instead of the guitars finish! Then retape it and keep going.
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#9
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There's a demo on Frets.com. Frets.com is down right now, but it will be back soon.
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#10
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I did this on my kids guitar. It didn't have a truss rod. I didn't use a bolt though. I just filled it in with glue. It's never given me trouble. Is the bolt necessary?
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2021 Taylor 114e 2020 Martin 000-18 2020 Martin LXME |
#11
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I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-Razo.../dp/B001Y50BTK I've had real good luck with Gyokucho saws for many years (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer). Much rather buy from LV than from the billionaire's site, though. |
#12
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I used a screw from the inside. The screw gives the glue a little more survivability if the neck gets a unplanned knock.
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Fred |
#13
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A japanese flush cut saw is all you need. I've done a couple of these based on the frets.com tutorial. He used a bone saw foe his, but those are $1000+. If it's a inexpensive guitar I would try it.
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