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  #16  
Old 07-04-2023, 07:04 AM
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Mark Hatcher Mark Hatcher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rule18 View Post
Wow Mark, that's gonna be one heck of a Woodsman (and my Greta's top will have a brother LOL).
Thanks rule18. The finish will be wrapping up pretty soon!

Mark
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  #17  
Old 07-04-2023, 07:31 AM
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Default OK, We have the Top. What do we do with it?

Here are the top halves:



From here I plane and level the surfaces to be glued on each half and glue it up:



Once dried I cut out a rough profile of the top and plane the surfaces.



Planing the top tells me if there is any run out (none) any hard or soft areas (none). I also have more exacting control of a consistent thickness than can be gotten from a sander.

Here is a picture of the planed top blank set back into the sanded part of the top that I cut away:



Notice how shiny it is and how the grain stands out so much more? That is because the pores in the sanded top are stuffed up with sawdust and fibers from the sanding as opposed to the clean cut of a plane.

But it's about a lot more than looks. Glue sticks a lot better to a planed surface than it does to a sanded surface. We see a lot of chatter about which is the best glue to use but the real question should be how was the wood surface prepared. Was it sanded (most common), scraped (better), or was it planed (best)? This makes a lot more difference than whether it was Fish Glue, hot Hide Glue or Titebond as far as adhesion goes.

Mark
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 07-04-2023 at 08:04 AM.
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  #18  
Old 07-05-2023, 07:43 AM
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Default Back And Sides

I am using a set of curly Brazilian Rosewood for the back and sides:











I think the Redwood and BRW are a great pairing both for looks and for tone:



m
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  #19  
Old 07-05-2023, 09:10 AM
BradHall BradHall is offline
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The difference between sanded and planed is remarkable. I’m ready to thickness my next build and will use a plane this time. Thanks for showing us your process. Absolutely stunning woods you are using.
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  #20  
Old 07-05-2023, 09:38 AM
Treenewt Treenewt is offline
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I second Brad's comment above...the wood selection is incredible on this build, Mark.
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  #21  
Old 07-05-2023, 10:35 AM
tommieboy tommieboy is offline
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If you are going for 13s you should look up the Remington House

Thanks for that suggestion. Very interesting reading.

Lately, I've been looking into the merits of 13-fret guitars for ergonomic reasons.

Tommy
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  #22  
Old 07-05-2023, 10:51 AM
Larrison Larrison is offline
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Wow- That's a great shot of a couple of amazing pieces of wood.
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  #23  
Old 07-05-2023, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradHall View Post
The difference between sanded and planed is remarkable. I’m ready to thickness my next build and will use a plane this time. Thanks for showing us your process. Absolutely stunning woods you are using.
Thanks Brad and you’re welcome

Quote:
Originally Posted by Treenewt View Post
I second Brad's comment above...the wood selection is incredible on this build, Mark.
Thanks Treenewt!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommieboy View Post
Thanks for that suggestion. Very interesting reading.

Lately, I've been looking into the merits of 13-fret guitars for ergonomic reasons.

Tommy
You are welcome Tommy, My apologies, I should have said the Winchester House, I guess you figured it out.
I’ve had several commissions for 13 fret guitars. I find changing scale lengths is a good way to avoid having to redesign your bracing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larrison View Post
Wow- That's a great shot of a couple of amazing pieces of wood.
Thanks Larrison!
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 07-05-2023 at 04:01 PM.
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  #24  
Old 07-05-2023, 03:57 PM
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I will be using 450 million year old Iberville Shale for the rosette:



I considered using green Turquoise because the color would go well and it can look like the patina on old brass.



I get the Iberville Shale rocks from certain beaches on Lake Champlain:



You can see New York's Adirondack mountains across the lake. This is the only place you can get Adirondack Spruce from, like the spruce I am going to use for the ladder braces on this guitar's back.
The raw rocks from this beach look like this:



The rocks are from an old sea bed that was brought to the surface as Vermont crashed into New York. The white is calcite from the ancient animal sea life and the black is just the other remnants on the sea bottom.

The real reason I am going with Iberville Shale is because it looks like smoke, like you might see coming out of a dark tunnel after an explosion?

m
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 07-06-2023 at 10:32 AM.
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  #25  
Old 07-06-2023, 08:34 AM
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Default Where There is Smoke There is Fire

Here I'm cutting out the sound hole:



You know what they say, "Where there is smoke there is fire"











Mark
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  #26  
Old 07-06-2023, 02:21 PM
Treenewt Treenewt is offline
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Those two elements, the Shale and the choice of wood for the logo….super classy and seriously cool!
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  #27  
Old 07-06-2023, 05:16 PM
SColumbusSt SColumbusSt is offline
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That is going to be a beautiful guitar!

Mark, how do you secure the wood when you are planing it and what plane do you use? I don't build enough to justify a drum sander and hate the mess, wrestling match and noise my drill press safety planer makes. I have a Stanley 5 1/2 and have tried the various methods I've found online to secure the wood when planing it but have not had success.
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  #28  
Old 07-07-2023, 07:23 AM
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Mark Hatcher Mark Hatcher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treenewt View Post
Those two elements, the Shale and the choice of wood for the logo….super classy and seriously cool!
Thanks Treenewt! We'll see more of that logo wood on this guitar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SColumbusSt View Post
That is going to be a beautiful guitar!

Mark, how do you secure the wood when you are planing it and what plane do you use? I don't build enough to justify a drum sander and hate the mess, wrestling match and noise my drill press safety planer makes. I have a Stanley 5 1/2 and have tried the various methods I've found online to secure the wood when planing it but have not had success.
Thanks SColumbusSt. I mostly use a Lie-Nielsen #164 low angle Smoothing Plane.
I secure the wood with a holdfast:



I also set a bench dog at the edge of the upper bout to keep the wood from turning.

I don't pull much wood with each stroke. I set up for between .002" and .003" thick curls.

M
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  #29  
Old 07-07-2023, 03:23 PM
SColumbusSt SColumbusSt is offline
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Thanks Mark!
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  #30  
Old 07-08-2023, 04:35 AM
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Default Burning Cocobolo

A little over two years ago I found this wonderful Cocobolo board at one of my favorite suppliers:



The board was 6ft+ and 4 quarters thick. I had to cut it in half to fit into the Mini Cooper I was driving back then. It had great color and the uncommon grain patterns called cloud figure.



My first thought looking at this board was it looks like it is on fire! This was the original inspiration for the guitar I am making today. I was aware the 100 year mark was coming on the Great Train Robbery. That is when I started planing this guitar.

So far we have the logo chip. Here I am prepping a section of the board to make the binding:



Here it is:



This picture I've shown a couple times already?:



That's the fretboard blank. This is a picture right after it was cut and it has reddened up some since.

There will be other opportunities for this wood as I go like the end graft, heel cap, headstock overlay, maybe a center laminate up the neck, etc.

The bridge will be BRW because since the back and sides are BRW I can easily go with the BRW bridge. Given the choice of BRW and Cocobolo I'll pretty much always pick BRW.

Thanks for following and for the comments and question along the way!
Mark
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“"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking".
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 07-08-2023 at 06:46 AM.
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