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  #16  
Old 03-29-2023, 06:47 PM
endpin endpin is offline
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I neglected to say that Sloane also shows what he calls a “Squeeze Jig” which is really the mold contour with two scrap wood blocks at the neck heel and tail block positions to sharpen the curve there and a rubber pad to sharpen up the waist curve.
Not sure this does anything different than what the bending jig does, but he created a separate jig for it for some reason. He softened the sides in boiling water to make them pliable enough to bend and maybe he wanted to take them off of the bending jig before fungus set in or something.

An interesting side note - IBEX was Irving Sloane's custom tool brand name.

Last edited by endpin; 03-29-2023 at 06:53 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2023, 11:36 PM
Itzkinguitars Itzkinguitars is offline
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Originally Posted by redir View Post
Right so I was going to ask...



Since I will be building a classical guitar form for my Blues Creek bender, did you do said compensation for spring back and find a working formula?

I think it's probably normal to have to bend on a hot pipe even after using the machine to make it perfect but it would be nice to get real close too.

I build on an open work board in the traditional Spanish way so it's important.

I only make classical guitars but I haven't found a formula to bend sides without springback. I look at the bending form as a short cut to get 90 percent there but refine the last 10 percent by hand; I feel sides should be perfectly bent so they adhere to the form drawn without a mold even if you're using a mold. The maker in the mountains of Malaga whom I apprenticed under heavily reinforced this ideology and I always strive for rims built without unneeded tension.
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  #18  
Old 03-30-2023, 07:40 AM
redir redir is offline
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Originally Posted by Itzkinguitars View Post
I only make classical guitars but I haven't found a formula to bend sides without springback. I look at the bending form as a short cut to get 90 percent there but refine the last 10 percent by hand; I feel sides should be perfectly bent so they adhere to the form drawn without a mold even if you're using a mold. The maker in the mountains of Malaga whom I apprenticed under heavily reinforced this ideology and I always strive for rims built without unneeded tension.
I share the same philosophy. Yeah so I guess it's normal to have to use the machine but then finalize by hand. Even though I had built 70 guitars at this point using a hot pipe to bend and never cracked a side I bought the machine because I have some very expensive BRW and wanted to make sure it got bent perfectly and safely. I guess I was a bit naive thinking it would come out perfect but it does certainly make it faster and easier to finish off on a hot pipe.
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