#136
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Mark, that Pina turned out amazing! Really love the tone in that sample clip, and I’d imagine that doesn’t begin to do it justice. Well done, sir!
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Treenewt |
#137
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Thanks doodahdoug. This was a fun build. It was easier to re-saw and bend that roasted curly Sugar Maple than I thought it would be. A very pleasant surprise indeed. It even sounds as great as I hoped for! Quote:
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Thanks for commenting everyone! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#138
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Indeed
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Paul
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4 John Kinnaird SS 12c CUSTOMS: Big Maple/WRC Dread(ish) Jumbo Spanish Cedar/WRC Jumbo OLD Brazilian RW/WRC Big Tunnel 14 RW/Bubinga Dread(ish) R.T 2 12c sinker RW/Claro 96 422ce bought new! 96 LKSM 12 552ce 12x12 J. Stepick Bari Weissy WRC/Walnut More |
#139
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First Gloss Coat On
Here are some pictures of my Red, White and Blue Piña parlor with the first gloss coat on. Should be about two more weeks before the finish is all on and cured:
Thanks for viewing! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#140
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Mark, that Red, White and Blue is turning out quite lovely! The first few coats are really letting that wood pop!
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Treenewt |
#141
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That neck strip is outrageously gorgeous!
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My YouTube Page: http://www.youtube.com/user/ukejon 2014 Pono N30 DC EIR/Spruce crossover 2009 Pono koa parlor (NAMM prototype) 2018 Maton EBG808TEC 2014 Hatcher Greta 13 fret cutaway in EIR/cedar 2017 Hatcher Josie fan fret mahogany 1973 Sigma GCR7 (OM model) rosewood and spruce 2014 Rainsong OM1000N2 ....and about 5 really nice tenor ukuleles at any given moment |
#142
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Thanks ukejon, it was a good day when I first tried using Amboyna burl! Thanks for commenting! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#143
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The Tree Josie Bracing
I've been busy splitting, matching, gluing braces for the top and back on the "Tree" Josie:
Next steps will be carving and voicing the top and back. In preparation for that it's time to sharpen up the chisels. I've mentioned earlier that I am working my way out of power tools. The first one to go is the Grizzly Tools electric grinder sharpener. When you're committing to manual handwork your chisels, planes. etc. need to be sharp, really, really sharp. So I'm going back to hand sharpening but these days I can afford quality Ohishi waterstones and a very accurate honing guide: Thanks for following along! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 08-27-2020 at 10:23 AM. |
#144
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Hi Mark,
interesting to see how different top bracing can look - this one seems so slender (but possibly higher ?) than others you see.. is that a particular wood (you mention you choose; pick and match the braces) or more an 'architectural' thing ? also: what is the wood you use for the bridge plate here ? and then the back.. looks gorgeous like that, cant wait to see it flipped around ;o) |
#145
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Tone wise it means you get a sufficiently stiff braced top with tall thin braces that is much lighter than one braced with short fat braces. The lighter top will tend to have a quicker and louder response with better definition and balance. I mostly use Sitka for my braces. The choosing I do is for particular pieces of Sitka whose characteristic vary within that species. I match braces in pairs, for instance, the two braces that make up the X brace are made from brace blanks that weigh the same and have the same deflection under a given weight. Same goes for finger braces on the left to fingers on the right. On my larger guitars like the Josie the lattice braces between the lower legs of the X brace are matched. Before I start voicing a Josie I have a symmetrically braced top. It is symmetrical in pattern, weight, and stiffness. This is the starting palette I strive for before I start voicing a guitar. For structural braces such as the top transverse brace and the sound hole support braces I tend to use Adirondack. In these cases strength verses stiffness may be a little more important with weight being a lesser concern. I use either Indian Rosewood or Hard Maple for bridge plates. In this case I’m using Hard Maple. I use them interchangeably. If I know a guitar is likely to be crossing International borders, I tend to use Maple. Sound wise they both do exactly what I want them to. Sorry, that may have been more than you were asking for! I tried to keep it short. Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 08-28-2020 at 05:08 AM. |
#146
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Sorry, that may have been more than you were asking for! I tried to keep it short. .. not at all, very informative and interesting, thanks a lot ! Lonzo |
#147
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Mark, thanks for sharing that info on bracing. I love discovering the different methods and thoughts behind your design. Nothing is left to chance!
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Treenewt |
#148
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You're welcome Treenewt. I try to control what I can and there is always more to know. That's what keeps guitar making so rewarding!
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#149
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That ambonya burl center strip down the back is crazy good looking!
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-------------------------------------------------------------- 2021 John Kinnaird Graybeard-12 Lucky Strike / African Blackwood 2006 Brook Euro Spruce / Flamed Maple Taw |
#150
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Thanks for commenting Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |