Eastman E10 ooss saddle Q.

[El Duque]

I bought this guitar knowing the action seemed little high - not quite right for me. I probably figured it could be adjusted but I was more worried about dings, scratches etc, sound. It is all good in that regard.
I didn't look at it close enough - how the bridge / saddle is put together. To be honest I don't know that much about adjusting those things - wasn't on the radar.

I sanded down the saddle on my carbon fiber travel guitar but that was a piece of cake. This is gonna require a pro.

So.... I'd like to lower or have the saddle (action) lowered but the the saddle slopes/is flush with the slope on the bridge on the two ends.

If it gets lowered a 32nd or more you will see the sides of the slot albeit a 32nd of an inch. Unsightly!

If it comes from the factory flush in my mind it should stay that way. Unless I'm missing something, the only way to lower it without an unsightly ridge where the saddle would drop below the bridge is to shave off the top. Is this commonly done? That is a factory rounded edge.

Or, a new one would need to be made the right height with the proper slope flush to the bridge (not factory) or leave it slightly above (for adjustment).

I know it won't affect the playability if there is a little ridge/gap but all the other details are spot on. This seems weird and if I had known I might have passed. What were they thinkin here?
I realize guitars need to be setup. I didn't plan on doing it though right out the gate. I can take it to someone but I just got it yesterday and we are in the middle of a pandemic! The one place I'd take it - you can buy a guitar but not have it set up - the repair shop is closed.

i haven't figured out how to post pics but here is the guitar on reverb - you will get the idea.
https://reverb.com/item/18725430-eas...er-00-sunburst
thoughts?
thanks

[charles Tauber]

If I'm understanding your description, what you are describing is called a "through saddle" - one that sits in an open-ended slot. These are often glued into the slot and can be difficult to remove. For that reason, the height of the strings at the saddle are often lowered by removing material from the top of the saddle and re-rounding/re-compensating the top of the saddle as necessary. Doing so also eliminates the issue of having the ends of the saddle flush with the contour of the "wings" of the bridge. It is an easy task for a professional.

[El Duque]

Yes that is correct.

I don't know about an "open ended slot". The saddle is captured on both ends tight in its slot.

so if it was cut too low, then what? or what happens if someone (the next owner wants it higher? Why is this type of saddle used? Seems like a poor idea.

can the glue be unstuck and the saddle removed and replaced if needed?
is this an easy job for a professional?

from my eye/ruler the 1/8" line is right behind the 6 string at the 12th fret. supposed to be 3/32 from the factory iirc. I am assuming that is measured from the fret to the string. I did it on the down side if the sting. I am not entirely sure of my eyes seeing correctly or if I did it right but I was just checkin for s & g's. whatever it is I'm not 100% liking it.

thanks a lot for the reply

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by El Duque

Seems like a poor idea.

To me as well. Eastman is copying Martin, who, as far as I know, started the "poor idea".

Most steel string guitar saddles are fit into one or more blind slots. These are "never" glued. Having an open-ended slot, such as you have, weakens the bridge. For that reason, I'm told, they are glued in, restoring the strength that was lost.

can the glue be unstuck and the saddle removed and replaced if needed?
is this an easy job for a professional?

Sometimes, sometimes not. If not, a new saddle is made. I've had more than one of them that I can't remove intact.

the 1/8" line is right behind the 6 string at the 12th fret. supposed to be 3/32 from the factory iirc.

Start by checking the amount of relief in the neck. Simultaneously fret the first and 14th fret. There should be a small gap between the top of the 7th fret and the bottom of the string. Typical values are about .005" to .01" - small. If it is more than that, if the guitar has one, tighten the truss rod to reduce the amount of relief. If the relief is excessive, it might need nothing more than a truss rod adjustment to get the 3/32". The purpose of adjusting the truss rod is to adjust the amount of bow (relief) in the neck. A consequence of that is a lower string height. The purpose of the truss rod adjustment is not to adjust string height.

[El Duque]

I will check that clearance. The neck looks to my eye almost dead straight but I could be wrong about that.

Thank You very much for the info. I really appreciate it!

Not sure when I will have it looked at, but at least I know more than I did a day ago. Doin a little research on "through saddle" I get it now.

This issue seems kinda obscure. Who knows, I might have never run across it. Underscores how little I do know.

I think now I fell into the GAS abyss.
In hindsight I might have been a little too eager to not miss out on a deal.
I seem to repeat that lesson from time to time.....

Not the end of the world but I'm a little disappointed....

thanks again.