Seeking best possible a/e dreadnought with cutaway, hopefully under $1k

[AZLiberty]

Originally Posted by Digitalshrub

Ahhh. That explains it.

I like to joke that Breedlove changes their models every Tuesday. Here is a nice 2015 Studio I found on Reverb:

https://reverb.com/item/16099100-bre...io-dreadnaught

A Stage:

https://reverb.com/item/11962978-bre...continued-4034

[Digitalshrub]

Originally Posted by AZLiberty

I like to joke that Breedlove changes their models every Tuesday. Here is a nice 2015 Studio I found on Reverb:

https://reverb.com/item/16099100-bre...io-dreadnaught

A Stage:

https://reverb.com/item/11962978-bre...continued-4034

Yeah, that Stage Dread is v tempting. Anybody have experience with that model? I've never owned a Breedlove. I played a Stage (Concert body, I believe) the other day which was in sore need of a setup, but I liked the feel of it well enough.

There's a used Martin DC-16GTE for a great price near me...sorta goes against the philosophy behind this whole post, but I might just swoop that up and sell it to upgrade to a D-18 after this theater project. A lot of the "semi-budget" a/e's I'm looking at are in the $800-900 range...for $300 more I could snag the Martin. Hmmm.

[AZLiberty]

Going to be used in a theatre production,
Needs a pickup,
Decent sound/volume unplugged,

Secondary use would be as a gigging guitar while saving up for the D-18...

Given those constraints, I would give serious consideration to picking up a used Martin DCX1E. I'd rather risk an X-series in a stage production than a solid wood instrument.

During the theatre production itself, you will be entirely at the mercy of your sound crew.

[baw3]

Yamaha a series hands down great guitars.

[calstang66]

A good value for under $1000. You gotta put Eastman in the mix IMO and many on the forum would agree.
You have a Guild D-150 on your short list, I'd say the older GAD-50 is a better guitar, better construction, better voice. My GAD-50 is amazing!
If you're looking at rosewood bodies, Eastman AC422 (small jumbo), AC420 (dread) sitka spruce, rw.
Eastman AC720 or AC820, dreads rw with engleman spruce tops, a bit louder vs sitka, but not quite as sweet.
I have an Eastman maple body, engelman spruce top for sale here on the forum, gorgeous, mint. 16" jumbo, dread size. Cutaway, Fishman pickup. Clean, clear, rich voice.

[Digitalshrub]

Originally Posted by calstang66

A good value for under $1000. You gotta put Eastman in the mix IMO and many on the forum would agree.
You have a Guild D-150 on your short list, I'd say the older GAD-50 is a better guitar, better construction, better voice. My GAD-50 is amazing!
If you're looking at rosewood bodies, Eastman AC422 (small jumbo), AC420 (dread) sitka spruce, rw.
Eastman AC720 or AC820, dreads rw with engleman spruce tops, a bit louder vs sitka, but not quite as sweet.
I have an Eastman maple body, engelman spruce top for sale here on the forum, gorgeous, mint. 16" jumbo, dread size. Cutaway, Fishman pickup. Clean, clear, rich voice.

I’ve always been a bit confused about all the models/eras of Guild guitars. I’ll keep my eyes peeled for a GAD-50, but my options are mostly limited to what I can demo at Guitar Center or any music store. Ditto for the Eastman options...I haven’t seen them around in stores here, but I’ll look out for them.

[Oldguy64]

For that money, a good performer might be something from Takamine.
An EF341 used, of course could be the ticket.
Sounds good plugged and unplugged.
Already has a rep as a formidable stage guitar.
Good enough for Steve Warine and Bruce Springsteen.
Can be had new for around $1300, used under $1k.

[IH8FRETBUZZ]

You will find most people will just suggest their own go to brand. Or maybe a guitar that they previously owned etc. because that’s what they know and have spent time playing. But here is the real truth. A guitar that is good for someone else might be horrible to you. That’s why some favor Martin over Gibson or vice versa. It all comes down to the neck shape and nut width in my opinion. Most any guitar can be set up to play at the same string tension as any other. But when you play them the neck shape is everything. It’s what makes you bond with the guitar, the feeling of it fitting correctly in YOUR hand. You have to play them to figure it out for yourself. For me it’s my Martin 000 with the modern neck profile. I’ve played a lot of Martins I didn’t like because they didn’t fit my hand so it’s not the brand, it’s the guitar model “ neck shape and nut width” that makes it or breaks it. As for tone, that’s subjective to everyone’s own taste and preferences, there is no right answer for tone.

[AZLiberty]

Originally Posted by Digitalshrub

I’ve always been a bit confused about all the models/eras of Guild guitars. I’ll keep my eyes peeled for a GAD-50, but my options are mostly limited to what I can demo at Guitar Center or any music store.

Guild is... Complicated.

You should be able to find new Guilds (made in China) at Guitar Center. If you have a Sam Ash nearby they tend to have a much better selection of Guilds than GC.

GAD = Guild Acoustic Design. These were Chinese Guilds made when Fender owned Guild. Those were discontinued several years ago, more or less when Cordoba bought the brand from Fender.

Cordoba changed the name (with some minor spec changes) to Westerly Series. (I won't comment on the ethics of that)

IMHO the Chinese Guilds are overbuilt and overbraced compared to the US models. On the other hand, I think the necks are much easier to play, and are pretty indistinguishable from a Martin neck. The newer Cordoba US Guilds have a tight fretboard radius that I hate.

[Digitalshrub]

Originally Posted by IH8FRETBUZZ

You will find most people will just suggest their own go to brand. Or maybe a guitar that they previously owned etc. because that’s what they know and have spent time playing. But here is the real truth. A guitar that is good for someone else might be horrible to you. That’s why some favor Martin over Gibson or vice versa. It all comes down to the neck shape and nut width in my opinion. Most any guitar can be set up to play at the same string tension as any other. But when you play them the neck shape is everything. It’s what makes you bond with the guitar, the feeling of it fitting correctly in YOUR hand. You have to play them to figure it out for yourself. For me it’s my Martin 000 with the modern neck profile. I’ve played a lot of Martins I didn’t like because they didn’t fit my hand so it’s not the brand, it’s the guitar model “ neck shape and nut width” that makes it or breaks it. As for tone, that’s subjective to everyone’s own taste and preferences, there is no right answer for tone.

Too true. The Gibson J-15 I owned for, like, a day, felt *wonderful* in my hand, which I at least partially attribute to the nut width of 1.75”. I couldn’t have been happier with how it felt. But the reason it was such a short-lived guitar on my collection was the lack of volume and “boom,” both of which have been in large supply on almost all of the Martin contenders I’ve played. The tone just wasn’t there, but the feel sure was. I tried making it work with other Gibson models, but they *all* lacked that tone I wanted. Many of them seemed perfect for recording, just not versatile enough to perform with in a variety of settings.

[Digitalshrub]

Originally Posted by AZLiberty

Going to be used in a theatre production,
Needs a pickup,
Decent sound/volume unplugged,

Secondary use would be as a gigging guitar while saving up for the D-18...

Given those constraints, I would give serious consideration to picking up a used Martin DCX1E. I'd rather risk an X-series in a stage production than a solid wood instrument.

During the theatre production itself, you will be entirely at the mercy of your sound crew.

Well, I played a DCX1E today, and I can say I at least agree that I’d rather risk an X series instrument onstage than a solid wood instrument.

That said, it would come with what I consider to be a massive sacrifice in tone. This particular X specimen was very plinky, fretting out in several places. The salesman told me they can’t keep the neck from shifting. He said the composite necks on the X instruments are all very finicky. Maybe he was just doing his salesman thing, but I didn’t take much convincing to hear how the guitar sounded, frankly, awful. Not to offend anyone here, or diss anybody’s preferences, but the DCX1E felt like a swing and a miss to me.

[Neil K Walk]

Did you get to look at that D-16GTE?

FWIW I have one that I put a JJB into. While I like the tone, the mahogany sides feel very thin so I wouldn’t recommend dancing about with it.

[Dloz]

I have a Martin DRS2 that I really like. All solid, spruce over sapele so has a D18 vibe to her. Loud, great punch & bass. Over-all Martin tone

[Digitalshrub]

Originally Posted by Neil K Walk

Did you get to look at that D-16GTE?

FWIW I have one that I put a JJB into. While I like the tone, the mahogany sides feel very thin so I wouldn’t recommend dancing about with it.

Good to know. No, I haven't had a chance to check out the D-16GTE just yet; the seller lives about 90 min from me, and I feel a little awkward about traveling that far...like, worried I might feel pressured to buy it, or the frustration of having to make that trip twice if I sleep on it after demoing the guitar.

But that's very good to know about the sides feeling thin...I doubt I'll be doing stuff that's super crazy with it onstage, but I have similar feelings about my girlfriend's Martin DM -- like it just doesn't feel like it would take much to punch a hole in it.

I'll probably just go with the Yamaha A3R or A3M, as it's the model that's spoken to me the most so far, doesn't break the bank, and seems to have decent reviews. I may wait till after Xmas just to see if any other options come up on the used market...

[Digitalshrub]

Originally Posted by Dloz

I have a Martin DRS2 that I really like. All solid, spruce over sapele so has a D18 vibe to her. Loud, great punch & bass. Over-all Martin tone

I *believe* I played a DRS2 at some point (so many Martin models, and so many letters and numbers, oy)...but I don't think they come with cutaways, and that's something I'd really like to have.