Build Thread: Stahl Style #6 inspired.

[Steven Bollman]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

Steve, from what I can see you have the wrong idea about splitting braces. The idea is not to detect wavy grain. It is to minimize runout. Toward that end, you split on a radius of the tree, just as you would do splitting firewood. You appear to be splitting on a tangent to the tree. The wavy look on the side just indicates that the grain in your split piece isn't vertical or perfectly straight; but that is something you can tell just by looking at it, unlike runout which is hard to detect. Once you know that you have minimal runout, you can just tilt the billet or the saw blade to get a vertical grain cut.

Your billet being wedge shaped indicates that it was sawn starting with a split and likely has little runout so long as the sawyer didn't make too many cuts before splitting again.

Hope this is making sense.

Thanks, Howard. The mysteries abound. I realize what you mean...I think. What I'm trying to achieve is grain in the brace that runs perpendicular to the top, no? As in the photo I attached. From what I've been able to glean that's the way it's done. Please correct me if I'm confused. It's entirely possible.

[Howard Klepper]

Yes, that's how the grain lines (growth rings) should run.

Runout is a separate issue.

[Steven Bollman]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

Yes, that's how the grain lines (growth rings) should run.

Runout is a separate issue.

Thanks, Howard. I think I followed the split face of the billet. I hope I did...

[Steven Bollman]

Things are about to get scary as I prepare to cut out the sound hole. I really needs to be perfect without chipping or tear out.



I got lucky again. Good result! Phew.

[Steven Bollman]

Planing the X-braces.



Planing the X-braces.



Working on the X-braces. A laminate of Lutz spruce on the outside and Koa on the inside.



Rip cutting a plank of Spanish Cedar for what will be the kerfed linings.



Trying to be efficient by planing three strips at once. It worked!



Planing the bevel onto the lining.



Almost done. The last step before installing is to kerf the strips. I'll show that in the next post.

[Sam VanLaningham]

OK Im loving your thread. I like seeing the skill with hand tools! I feel sort of silly asking but how do you sharpen your plane blades etc? Im not getting the level of sharpness I am shooting for with diamond stone. OK, cool. Later. Sam

[Steven Bollman]

Kerfing the Spanish Cedar linings.



Kerfed linings are done. They will have to wait their turn to be installed.



A diversion... I worked on an ebony pick guard. Shape is not quite there yet. If I decide to use it, it will be the last thing glued to the guitar. I have time to think about it.

[Steven Bollman]

Originally Posted by Left of Sam

OK Im loving your thread. I like seeing the skill with hand tools! I feel sort of silly asking but how do you sharpen your plane blades etc? Im not getting the level of sharpness I am shooting for with diamond stone. OK, cool. Later. Sam

Hi LoS. Thanks for your comments! There are numerous ways to sharpen. I'm not an expert. I use a DMT 325 Dia-Sharp, a DMT 1200, and a 4000 Japanese water stone. It's important to lap the back of plane blades and chisels going through the grades until you get a mirror finish. Then I use a Veritas System. http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=119

[Howard Klepper]

Curly koa for braces?

Where did that come from? I thought the Larsons used rosewood.

[Steven Bollman]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

Curly koa for braces?

Where did that come from? I thought the Larsons used rosewood.

Well, you are correct Howard. I guess a few things lead me to use the Koa center strip. I looked at cutting off some rosewood strips from the side set but chickened out because since I have never bent sides I didn't know how much excess I might need in case I screw it up. Secondly, the more research I do about the Larson Bros designs the more I learn that they were all over the map with design variations. The Koa strip is thicker than the rosewood called for in the plans so in my brain I'm pretending they are roughly equivalent. The braces seem wonderfully lightweight and very stiff, which I think is the goal. I know they also said the vibration transfer had something to do with it. I'm counting on luck Howard. Luck!

[Sam VanLaningham]

Originally Posted by Rex Tremende

Hi LoS. Thanks for your comments! There are numerous ways to sharpen. I'm not an expert. I use a DMT 325 Dia-Sharp, a DMT 1200, and a 4000 Japanese water stone. It's important to lap the back of plane blades and chisels going through the grades until you get a mirror finish. Then I use a Veritas System. http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=119

Thanks! I guess I have to get a honing guide then.....or make one DIY style (I'm trying to only spend money on essentials - Im long on time short on money).

I think I'm also going to take your lead on the way you cut your soundhole. Looks like the way to go.

So, I have a question for you regarding your kerfing: Did you cut the glueing top surface at the angle equivalent to the radius of the top?

Cool. Sam

[Steven Bollman]

Originally Posted by Left of Sam

Thanks! I guess I have to get a honing guide then.....or make one DIY style (I'm trying to only spend money on essentials - Im long on time short on money).

I think I'm also going to take your lead on the way you cut your soundhole. Looks like the way to go.

So, I have a question for you regarding your kerfing: Did you cut the glueing top surface at the angle equivalent to the radius of the top?

Cool. Sam

Yeah, that's a good question. It's currently at a 90º angle. I'm not sure how I'm going to control the doming on the top. I might even abort the plan and make the top flat. I may have to re-make the linings. Learning curve. These are things not indicated clearly in the plan. And I am a rookie.

As for cutting out the sound hole, I made four passes, going slowly. Make sure your bit is new or confirmed that it is really sharp.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by Rex Tremende

Yeah, that's a good question. It's currently at a 90º angle. I'm not sure how I'm going to control the doming on the top. I might even abort the plan and make the top flat. I may have to re-make the linings. Learning curve. These are things not indicated clearly in the plan. And I am a rookie.

As for cutting out the sound hole, I made four passes, going slowly. Make sure your bit is new or confirmed that it is really sharp.

Regarding the top & back linings. There are at least 2 schools of thought. First, 90 degrees. Even if the top is domed, there is a slight "re-curve" effect similar to a carved archtop or violin. Second, matching the angle to the dome/curvature of the top & back. This can be done by hand with a plane, sanding block, or a domed piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it.

[Steven Bollman]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

Regarding the top & back linings. There are at least 2 schools of thought. First, 90 degrees. Even if the top is domed, there is a slight "re-curve" effect similar to a carved archtop or violin. Second, matching the angle to the dome/curvature of the top & back. This can be done by hand with a plane, sanding block, or a domed piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it.

Thanks, HCG! That's really helpful. I was thinking of gluing them in a tad proud and sanding or planing them down.

[Jim.S]

Where did Rex go, why is Steven Bollman now building Rex's guitar?

Jim