#1
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Double binding question
After gluing the tortoise binding, I wanted to use my Dremel to mill the channel for the abalone purfling.
Unfortunately this was not even with the dremel. So I now plan to first mill the 5mm inner channel for the abalone purfling on the guitar top through the tortoise edge binding and, after the glue of the abalone has cured, mill off the rest of the tortoise edge binding and then glue a new stripe on again. That sounds a bit complicated, but it is simple: first milling for abalone, then the tortoise strip again. Have I overlooked any problems? Two photos for better understanding (tortoise binding vertical - abalone purfling horizontal) rim of the guitar
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#2
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You are doing it the hard way. Route off or remove your tortoise binding. Route the purfling ledge and use a Teflon strip in place of the abalone when gluing up. Then pull the Teflon strip and press in the abalone. It will break into the curves.
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#3
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Thanks, I received the Teflon strip from Stewmac yesterday.
I guess routing for the abalone purfling with the tortoise binding on the sides would be like routing on the wooden sides before . It will cut a top part of the tortoise binding, so I have to route the remaining of this binding and then install (glue) a new one again. Yes,Glen, thatīs really the hard way but I canīt change it anymore... Or would there be a way to only route for the abalone purfling without touching the tortoise binding?
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes Last edited by viento; 06-30-2020 at 06:48 AM. |
#4
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My opinion:
I've frequently found that the way to fix something right is to back up until I can proceed in the right direction without compromise with the error, in effect erasing the error. I think tortoise plastic binding is inexpensive and routing it off will take little time, and complicating a fix out of respect to the plastic will take lots more time and effort than backing up and starting over and yield a poorer result. |
#5
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Youīre right. Thereīs no financial problem and I too think that taking off the plastic binding and renewing it after gluing in the purfling will be no difficult work.
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#6
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There are ways to rout out a purfling channel after first installing the binding. This is a common method when retopping guitars and it works really well. So you could safe that binding, or at least try to.
Scroll through this to see how it's done: http://grevenguitars.com/retopping-demo.html Most luthiers it seems first rout the binding, then rout the purfling and install both binding and purfling at the same time with the exception of using Teflon for inlay. |
#7
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Thanks for that highly interesting link!
I have to think about that problem. A good hint: Masking tape protects the sides for the bearing guide of the router.
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes Last edited by viento; 06-30-2020 at 04:41 PM. |