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  #16  
Old 01-12-2021, 07:45 PM
donnyb donnyb is online now
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Just on terminologies John which Im not always good with; is binding the same as the perimeter kerfing ? Or is it the exterior binding cosmetic binding?
Or is it the thin strips about 19mm wide running off at right angles to the neck block towards the rear of the body ?

Im about to post a photo of the gluing prep too.
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2021, 07:56 PM
donnyb donnyb is online now
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Here's where I'm at. Grateful for any advice though !


https://imgur.com/WScDe4b

In the photo, I've put a couple of screw jacks with pads under a bit of tension between top brace and body bottom. Doing so allows me to insert a couple of very thin maple pieces that didn't slide under otherwise, but were close to doing so .

If I release the jacks the pieces bind. It should be OK then for applying say Titebond to each side of the maple pieces, slide them all the way under and release jack tension.
Just not sure though if these will slide all the way back as they're a bit fragile to do a complete trial run.

I dont want to apply any more jack pressure if possible, so maybe I should humidify the body for 24 hours and see if the gap opens up a bit more ? But maybe then the release of jack pressure wont close up as well on the glue !?

Any clues please ?

Last edited by Kerbie; 01-13-2021 at 03:15 AM. Reason: Embed photo.
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2021, 10:23 PM
redir redir is offline
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It was definitely not done intentionally, just bad construction. I just repaired an LG-2 too that had the same issue as well as an L-48 that had the same problem. Since I had the back off the L48 it was easy to repair. I use thin mahogany 'tape' which his edge binding for furniture I think. Maple will do just fine. That almost looks like a spruce block in the image. I don't know if using the jacks is a great idea becasue you might go beyond the thickness of the gap that is there and will see it on the outside. But if you just ever so slightly jack it then it should work. Just enough to slide shims in. Probably a good idea to clamp it too but in either case it will work.
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  #19  
Old 01-12-2021, 11:20 PM
donnyb donnyb is online now
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Thanks Redir.
I definitely will be going over the body bracing again to check if there's any more construction issues.
The maple shims are about ,040" and the the gap was around .030".
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  #20  
Old 01-13-2021, 12:17 AM
donnyb donnyb is online now
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Maple shims glued in using Titebond Original, jacks released and outside clamps applied. Had good squeeze out.

I did have to use a steel rule on edge and a light tapping happer to tap the shims home.


https://imgur.com/F9VsO62

I will darken the exposed edges of the maple a bit with a bit of stain.

Thankyou to all for your assistance. This was my first experience of heel separation and will be on watch in the future.
regards,
Don

Last edited by Kerbie; 01-13-2021 at 03:16 AM. Reason: Embed photo.
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