#31
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Useful post but a question about the LMI string height gauge.
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Have more recently been using a rather nifty tool to cut nut slots more quickly and accurately. It’s a short length of spring steel sandwiched between two pieces of Corian. It bridges the gap between the nut and second fret. As you slide it along and beyond the nut it drops to touch the 1st fret; there’s tactile and audible feedback. You can then make small adjustments to the slot depth until the drop is almost imperceptible. This works very well and saves me a great deal of time by not requiring you to replace the string after each adjustment. If you’re looking for a precise measurement you can measure the gap with a feeler gauge. I’ll aim for between 0.05-0.10mm on all strings. Interestingly, one of my tutors at college uses a different height for each string on his classical instruments and that seems to work well. One last question, how do you hold the feeler gauges in place when cutting the nut slots? |
#32
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err, Nope. Equal temperament major 3rds are ~14 cents sharp compared to Just 3rds, so if you want that open D chord to sound in tune (to Just) the 1st string needs to be flattened. |
#33
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Thanks, Trevor, for the correction. That's what happens when I go from (faulty) memory when just picking up a guitar and tuning it would have shown I was wrong.
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#34
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This seems like a good opportunity for me to thank others with even more knowledge and experience for their participation on this forum, including Frank Ford, Alan Carruth, John Arnold, Steve (Mirwa), Howard Klepper and Trevor Gore, to name a few. |
#35
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There really is a lot to proper nut setup. Not only does it affect string height and play-ability, but also string intonation in the first position. But it seems to be one of the most overlooked parts of a good setup. No wonder folks like Zager can exist as they do...
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______________ ---Tom H --- |