#1
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REPAIR HELP_How to position the side to re-glue to the back?
Hi all,
I bought this Freshman Open Plains (solid spruce top) for £15, believe it or not! But it needs repair in the junction between the side and the back, right at the waist where it meets my chest while playing. It could be an easy repair if it was just glueing and clamping, but the side is going inwards, so it is not flush with the footprint of the back. I need to somehow push it towards the outside to align with the back before glue/clamp. Once I manage to do this, it should be fairly easy, and whilst I am missing part of the white purfling line, I could fill that gap with ABS melted with acetone, and then sand and add a coat of lacquer. But what would you use to keep the side in position before glue/clamping? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot! |
#2
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It might be as simple as cutting a dowel or length of wood just right and wedging it to the opposite side and shimming it up till it's perfect.
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#3
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Position (with your hand inside) and clamp dry to determine if can be done. Then either wick in CA glue or unclamp, glue with wood glue, reposition, and clamp.
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#4
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Thank you guys!
I thought about cutting a piece of wood and use it to internally push the wood, so thanks redir for the confirmation. I also tried with my hands but if I release, it will quickly come back, so I prefer to keep the pressure with the piece of wood inside to make sure it will stay in place. So: a) if the pieces are correctly and clamped in place, can I squeeze in "super fast thing CA? b) I guess it is best to prepare and cut the missing piece of white purfling before clamping and squeezing the glue? Cheers, and thanks again! |
#5
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I would use Titebond rather than CA.
__________________
Fred |
#6
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CA may not work with the previous glue and doesn't work great on porous material (wood).
Remove old glue where possible. Do a dry fit as suggested above to confirm it will fit and determine how to fit clamps. Remove clamps and spreader, add Titebond original. Refit spreader and clamps. |
#7
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Thank you all, I've managed to fix it and will now start the refinishing process to cover the mess. Hopefully it will look good.
Will keep you posted in a few weeks when it's all done. |
#8
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maybe push the sides in a bit more for more space to add glue and then push them out from inside to align and clamp (as directed above). doesn't have to be pretty internally given the value of the guitar so i would hedge on the side of more vs less glue.
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#9
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Hi guys,
So I've managed to glue the parts and fill the gap of the purfling (although slightly thinner in thickness), so now I need to apply a poly lacquer, but I can't match the wood colour... I presume they added a tint to the lacquer to get that orange colour? I don't have an airbrush equipment with lots of dyes to mix, so was wondering what would be the most effective and simplest way to more closely match the colour before I apply the poly lacquer? I have tried staining the wood with 2 different varieties but still not a close match. Any suggestions? Thanks again... |
#10
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Maybe orange shellac? Might be close enough as is? Or you could use a lighter coloured shellac and tint with alcohol based dyes (leather dye) or colouring agents.
Most finishes will adhere over shellac. Or might look good enough as is on a £15 guitar. There are also furniture touch up felt tip pens in various colours you could colour it with before top coat. |
#11
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Quote:
I paid £15 for it, but this model when new was around £350 like 10 years ago, lol. Not too bad a score really... |