#1
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What would you do?
I recently bought a stunning piece of bookmatched ziricote back and sides set from LMII. My mom had picked out the set. She fell in love with it. She wanted it to be her special guitar.
I brought the set to some guy to get the it thickness sanded and he completely ****ed my back. I was super dissapointed. I was standing there with him when it happened. He wasn't being professional at all. He was adjusting his sander, putting new sandpaper in, ripping off the feeder belt while my piece was running through and not taking his time at all. I couldn't believe it I need some creative ideas of how I can still work with this beautiful set: |
#2
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What I would do is hand him the wood and the receipt for its purchase and tell him he just bought it.
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#3
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^This, unless you are able to somehow still use that piece. There will be other sets. I can't believe the guy didn't offer to pay for it immediately...or did he?
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#4
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Quote:
But what is the minimum thickness of the gouge?? If there is at least .75mm of thickness, you COULD put a patch in that section, and use the other side for the outer face. The face showing doesn't look perfectly bookmatched, so I wonder if the other side were the facing sides of the cut. Then put a label, like a classical or flamenco guitar tradition, inside over the patch.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#5
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Sorry, just looking for a bit of humor between the tears. Seriously, I'd insist that bozo pay for his mistake. Then again I just had an idea. Saw it in back into two pieces right down the middle where the bookmatch glue joint is. Then flip each side so what was the outer edges becomes the new middle. Then the sanded places will get cut away since they will be where the body curves IN. Sure it would have arguably looked better the original way, but will still look fantastic. Last edited by Tico; 02-27-2016 at 11:28 AM. |
#6
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Yeah.. We had a big talk after this happened. He say's he doesn't have the money to pay me back. It was a $400 set. He said I can use his shop and other equipment whenever I want and he'll be hand free of my work but I'm scared to use his other machines now. He said he might be able to get me backstage to jackson brown this summer but I'm not sure if he's a man of his world. He said its only a possibility. He says he's been a luthier for 19 years but has only recently set up his personal shop in the past 2 years building his own.
Anyway.. you guys have some good ideas. The thinnest part of the gouge is .020" I'm thinking I will cut out a design in the back or something **** Last edited by GlowBlue; 02-27-2016 at 12:11 PM. |
#7
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Triangular center strip of something else?
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#8
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You'll still have enough to patch it and work with it.
2 follow up questions: 1) How does the side not shown in the photo look?? 2) How is the finish?? Rough sawn (bandsaw), thickness planed, thickness sanded?? I use near 80 or 100 grit on my drum sander, so it leaves striations (sanding grooves) that need to be taken out. My tool of choice is a scraper. Scraping to remove these striations will remove only about a tenth of a mm. Band saw rough marks can take up to a half mm or more to remove.
__________________
---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#9
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The other side (the bookmatched side) is fine.
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#10
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Veneer the inside. If the bookmatched face still looks good, thin the piece down to a 1/16" or so (not like the other guy thinned it), and then glue a veneer of Ziricote or something cool on the inside. Fill the leftover gap that's remaining before applying the veneer. It should be fine.
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#11
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If that's the case, I would certainly choose the option to patch and use the good face. Hand craft a patch of similar wood (cut off from the ziricote is even good) and shape it as exactly as you can to fit. Then you can make some ziricote sanding dust, mix with a blend of TB2, TB3, and a touch of water, and use this paste for your glue to fill any gaps due to your patch not fitting perfectly. Clamp with cauls as tightly as possible (use wax paper if using wooden cauls, which is my recommendation) then let dry for at least 24 hours, or even up to 48 or more.
I have used paste with the blend I gave above, and it dries rock hard. Mix the liquids first, then add the sanding dust. A file is best for making the sanding dust because you can avoid contamination with sandpaper grit. No one but you (and us) will know the difference once it is done with a label.
__________________
---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#12
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Wow, wow and wow
Stuff happens firstly, but I don't believe a word that this guys been a luthier for 19yrs, it's appalling Don't try to fix it, just let it go as far as materials, beautiful piece of wood, I would want my money back for the set, irrespective if he Saids he cannot afford it. steve
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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I'm not really sure what I am seeing there. The gouge looks like it's an inch deep?
People make mistakes, we are only human, but you have to be held accountable for your mistakes too. The veneer idea sounds like the best option to me. I guess you could fill it with a patch and put your label over it. IF you have enough scrap left over from the cut offs then rout out a nice flat shape over it and inlay the patch. |
#15
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I am in the process of doing so.
I chose to patch the gouge. I had to order some extra ziricote blanks and then I carefully cut out, chiseled, sanded and fit 4 pieces to color match the backs natural grain pattern. I glued down the pieces on a go bar table. I'll have to order a veneer to go over it once the patch is flush to the rest of the back. I'm thinking mahogany will be fine.. Here are some pictures: Last edited by GlowBlue; 03-04-2016 at 09:21 AM. |