fretboard lifting slightly near sound hole

ssjk · #1 02-13-2024, 01:33 PM

I have a pretty nice guitar that has a single flaw - the fretboard is lifting slightly, starting about midway between the neck join and the sound hole. The gap is less than 1/32 inch, but you can clearly see light between the body and the neck. It's easy to press the fretboard back to the body.

It is a handmade, apparently all solid wood guitar made by a group of local luthiers around 10 years ago and donated to the local Guitars for Vets program. I'd like to fix it so that I can in good conscience offer it to the group members.

I'm guessing it would have a max value of around $4 - 500 so I'm not sure its worth a major investment for repair.

Here's the question: should I just glue the fretboard back to the body, and if so should I use something like tightbond or superglue? It will be pretty easy to set a clamp as the gap is right at the sound hole.IMG_1810.jpg

redir · #2 02-13-2024, 02:27 PM

It would be ideal to know what glue was used. If you can see in their you may be able to tell. Titebond is commonly used. On an application like that Titebond will work as is but if you are able try to sand as much of both gluing surfaces you can to get back to wood. A reversible glue is recommended in that area of the guitar hence why I suggest Titebond.

You can make strips of sanding paper and insert under the FB, push the FB down to the paper and pull the strip out 'flossing' the gluing surface.

CA will work though not quite as reversable. You have to be very careful using it as it can make a big mess. I'd get a standard viscosity CA and using a very thin spatula put the CA on the spatula then scrape the glue off on to the underside of the FB. Then clamp it for 5 minutes.

fazool · #3 02-13-2024, 02:59 PM

Also I think it is important to look more closely at the fretboard. Its not just "lifting" and the string tension should push it the other way. It appears to be "curling" up which suggests (to me) that the fretboard wood is warping as it ages.

If the wood wasn't properly cured/dried/aged it might be more susceptible to this.

So I would make sure it is as stable as you can get it, humidity-wise, first.

Otherwise it may peel up again.

ssjk · #4 02-14-2024, 07:14 AM

Thanks to both of you.

The flossing sandpaper is one I would not have thought of, so thanks for that.

And the warping rather than pulling up is obvious when pointed out, but wasn’t for me when I looked at it. I’d did wonder why it would be moving against the string tension, but kind of left it there.

I’ve got the guitar in a spot to be well humidified, and then will do the glue up.

phavriluk · #5 02-14-2024, 08:17 AM

In a perfect world, the original builder could be asked about whether the fingerboard was glued down, and if so with what. On a good day the builder might offer to make the fix.

Meanwhile, masking tape on the soundboard and fretboard , lots of it everywhere, is your friend.

Rudy4 · #6 02-14-2024, 09:11 AM

Do use a straight edge and ascertain if the board is actually lifting in the area from the body join to the sound hole.

If it happens to actually be straight then there's the possibility that the soundboard is sinking due to rotational forces exerted by the bridge. It looks pretty extreme in this case, but it could also be the result of both the fret board tongue lifting and the top sinking.

ssjk · #7 02-14-2024, 02:11 PM

Well, that's not good - the straightedge test says the fingerboard is flat.

I have the skills to apply glue and a clamp, but not to address belly sinking or neck attachment issues. So now what?

- offer it as is with the understanding that it may need structural work. It actually sets up and plays pretty well. I guess that's why I didn't notice the gap.

- go ahead and glue/clamp after making sure the guitar is adequately hydrated. Then offer to the group with full disclosure

- bite the bullet and take it to someone competent for an estimate and see whether it's worth repairing

Thanks again for the responses. Shows me I was right to not go directly to the glue option.

phavriluk · #8 02-14-2024, 02:34 PM

The instrument is a non-factory instrument, and any number of structural conditions may be influencing its integrity. I think an inspection by an experienced tech would, in an ideal world, help clarify the preferred course of action if any is warranted.

ssstewart · #9 02-14-2024, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rudy4

Do use a straight edge and ascertain if the board is actually lifting in the area from the body join to the sound hole.

If it happens to actually be straight then there's the possibility that the soundboard is sinking due to rotational forces exerted by the bridge. It looks pretty extreme in this case, but it could also be the result of both the fret board tongue lifting and the top sinking.

this is exactly what i was thinking

Rudy4 · #10 02-14-2024, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssjk

Well, that's not good - the straightedge test says the fingerboard is flat.

I have the skills to apply glue and a clamp, but not to address belly sinking or neck attachment issues. So now what?

- offer it as is with the understanding that it may need structural work. It actually sets up and plays pretty well. I guess that's why I didn't notice the gap.

- go ahead and glue/clamp after making sure the guitar is adequately hydrated. Then offer to the group with full disclosure

- bite the bullet and take it to someone competent for an estimate and see whether it's worth repairing

Thanks again for the responses. Shows me I was right to not go directly to the glue option.

I'd probably opt to set it up for easy play and then just disclose what you already know. It depends on how much money you want to risk.

There's quite a few structural faults that can cause this, so it's really a matter of someone with experience looking at it to see what it needs to correct the problem. Sometimes an upper traverse brace coming loose can cause this, particularly if it wasn't tucked into the linings properly. Or other stuff...

This isn't an unusual thing to see as a result of someone new knowing just enough about building to be dangerous. Sometimes a new builder will try and "improve" tried and true designs and end up building an instrument that's not robust enough to stand up to the forces involved.

(You wouldn't believe the number of great guitars that have severe structural damage because someone heard that the "Popsicle" brace should be removed...)

There are quick and dirty repairs like adding a "Bridge Doctor", but that doesn't always work if it's the result of poor design or construction.

There's at least one current well known maker who includes the bridge doctor on his new acoustic guitars. (I'm not a fan of the bridge doctor, but it does prevent bellying.)