Emerald X-20 Owners - String Preferences

[SprintBob]

Originally Posted by Bax Burgess

Yes. If the saddle is square at the edges and the bridge-slot floor's edges are slightly rounded, the saddle can be bridging over the slot floor instead of firmly engaging it. Sanding the saddle's lower edge gives it a better chance for contact. Trebles will fill out, if that was the issue.

Makes sense. I’ll pencil a line where the saddle sits in the slot before I do that and afterwards see if it drops deeper into the slot. Thanks for the idea.

[SprintBob]

Originally Posted by SprintBob

Makes sense. I’ll pencil a line where the saddle sits in the slot before I do that and afterwards see if it drops deeper into the slot. Thanks for the idea.

I tried this and it appears the saddle is seating just fine into the saddle slot.

[SprintBob]

Originally Posted by Earl49

FWIW all of my guitars typically use the same three types strings: Elixir Nanoweb PB, D'Addarrio EJ-16, and GHS White Bronze. I have not done a whole lot of experimenting, mostly sticking with what works for me and is easy to get. Coated strings are for guitars that do not get played very often like my twelve string, and uncoated strings are for those that get tuned up and down repeatedly (that kills tone in a hurry so there is no point in having coated strings). My X20 is currently wearing Cleartones but they are approaching the end of their lifespan after 4-5 months. I'll likely go back to good old Elixir.

I did experiment with John Pearse Pure Nickels on my Lucky 13, but that did not work out well at all. They are fine on my wood guitars, but the CF Lucky 13 really did not care for them. The X30 has a set of GHS White bronze right now -- the brightness helps to balance the inherently bassy character -- but those will be due for a change soon.

Of the strings I’ve tried, the TI Plectrums have seemed the best, the Elixir 80/20’s were very tinny in the trebles, and the JP Pure Nickels (not NB’s) are worse than the Elixir’s. Scratching my head here. This guitar is not cutting it tonally compared to any of my wood guitars or my Rainsong even though as said in the OP I love the ergonomics.

When I removed the saddle, the bottom of the saddle slot in the bridge was white and it looks like there is some kind of thin paper liner. I wonder why it is there? Next on the list will be the D’Addario NB’s and possibly the SCGC Low Tension Parabolics.

[jdinco]

You have some real awesome guitars in your signature.....let's be honest, if those are your standards, I don't see the X20 ever getting close to what you're used to. I know that's the way I work. Now if you are just looking for something a little different, then carry on. I am enjoying your string tests and reports though ! Thank you.

[seannx]

Originally Posted by SprintBob

Of the strings I’ve tried, the TI Plectrums have seemed the best, the Elixir 80/20’s were very tinny in the trebles, and the JP Pure Nickels (not NB’s) are worse than the Elixir’s. Scratching my head here. This guitar is not cutting it tonally compared to any of my wood guitars or my Rainsong even though as said in the OP I love the ergonomics.

When I removed the saddle, the bottom of the saddle slot in the bridge was white and it looks like there is some kind of thin paper liner. I wonder why it is there? Next on the list will be the D’Addario NB’s and possibly the SCGC Low Tension Parabolics.

I put SCGC Low Tension PBs on my X20, and the tinny sound was gone. No there's more base, and it's the warm sound I like. I had the same problem with my RainSong that came with Elixir 80/20s. A set of PB EJ16s solved that. Tonally, the two carbon fiber guitars are very similar in sound and dynamics, with the difference what you would expect between a 12 fret short scale, and a little bigger and deeper 25 1/2" scale guitar with 24 frets.

[SprintBob]

Originally Posted by jdinaz

You have some real awesome guitars in your signature.....let's be honest, if those are your standards, I don't see the X20 ever getting close to what you're used to. I know that's the way I work. Now if you are just looking for something a little different, then carry on. I am enjoying your string tests and reports though ! Thank you.

What I’m disappointed in with the X-20 is that the trebles just don’t sparkle better when I play fingerstyle so far. Strumming and flatpicking it seems fine. You’re right, I may be hoping for more based on what my ears are used to when you also have a Collings, a couple of Santa Cruz’s, and the Froggy as benchmarks.

I've had a 7, 10, and 20 Emerald nylon string guitar. I've found the balance to be perfecto, given the strings. Strings make a big difference on CF guitars and I've experienced that difference. I haven't had to mix sets, but I have experimented with various strings to get the balance I want.

[SprintBob]

An update here. I still have my X-20 and it will be a keeper. I found the string set that works best for the playing I do with it (99% fingerstyle) is a hybrid set of Thomastik Infeld Plectrum 11-50’s where I replace the 11-14 top strings with 12-16’s. That gives me a bit fatter trebles which was what I was looking for.

The guitar is super comfortable to play, very balanced tonally, has excellent sustain, but still does not have the projection/volume of my wood guitars but that’s a moot point since I play at home and this guitar is also my travel guitar. I recently visited a luthier that I bought a beautiful Adi/Cocobolo 00 from and we played the two against each other. He had the same impression I had and regarding the volume/projection, his opinion was the clear coat and the top veneer might be factors. It would be interesting if Emerald offered a naked guitar with no poly finish on it but I am sure they have done A/B’s in house to compare.

I kept my Rainsong during this process. It has a louder, fuller tone but it is not quite as balanced as the Emerald. I’d say it has a slightly mid range scooped response like a sitka/EIR wood guitar. It is also a slightly bigger guitar and not quite as comfortable for me to play. I just put it up for sale.

[al_az]

So my 2 cents. I got my x-20 six string 4 days ago, I thought the d'addario exp11 80/20 strings it came with sounded dreadful. Full disclosure I have never liked 80/20's on any of my guitars. I cut them off IMMEDIATELY. I have been using Martin silk and phosphor (11-47) on all my acoustics since Straight up Strings had covid related supply problems. My other guitars have done beautifully with these for my fingerstyle playing, however, the Emerald really sounded dead and dull with them, no sparkle. I IMMEDIATELY cut them off. I then found a set of low tension Santa Cruz strings in my drawer and put these on. The guitar blossomed. I have since placed an order for the Straight up Strings low tension set as they are now in stock. The SC low tension has 12's and the SUS low tension sets have 11's. I am really trying to develop a very light hand on my acoustic playing, old age is approaching and I know arthritis lies in the near future, and prefer 11's.

[seannx]

Didn’t like the 80/20 strings that came on my X20. Replaced them with SC low tension strings and really liked them. After local luthier Bob Gruhn expertly lowered the saddle (for my picking/strumming style it was a little high) the SCs were replaced with EJ 16 PBs. They give a nice warm sound, but I may switch back to SCs at the next change.

One thing I’ve discovered about the new X20 pinless bridge is that it complicates changing strings. There is (obviously) no pin to hold the ball end in position while threading the string through the tuner, doing a wrap around the post, and tightening it enough to stay in place. Using a capo until there was enough tension to keep it in position helped somewhat. Bob tapered a 2” length of 3/16” wooden dowel down to 1/8" at one end, and it’s the perfect size to hold the ball end in position while changing a string.

[esimms86]

I'm not a fan of pinless bridges unless they're done the way that Lowden has designed them(I used to have a Lowden it but sold it after I received my X30 - I also have a Kestrel and a Warmoth Tele build). I've been cured of my GAS, at least at this point in time, so I have no plans for an X20. Still, if you asked me(not that anyone is asking LOL!), I would configure the second X20 mould to include either the standard pinned bridge or a Lowden style bridge.

[al_az]

Originally Posted by seannx

One thing I’ve discovered about the new X20 pinless bridge is that it complicates changing strings. There is (obviously) no pin to hold the ball end in position while threading the string through the tuner, doing a wrap around the post, and tightening it enough to stay in place. Using a capo until there was enough tension to keep it in position helped somewhat. Bob tapered a 2” length of 3/16” wooden dowel down to 1/8" at one end, and it’s the perfect size to hold the ball end in position while changing a string.

Briliantly simple solution, I had the same issues with string changes

[byudzai]

Originally Posted by esimms86

I'm not a fan of pinless bridges unless they're done the way that Lowden has designed them(I used to have a Lowden it but sold it after I received my X30 - I also have a Kestrel and a Warmoth Tele build). I've been cured of my GAS, at least at this point in time, so I have no plans for an X20. Still, if you asked me(not that anyone is asking LOL!), I would configure the second X20 mould to include either the standard pinned bridge or a Lowden style bridge.

Does the new pinless bridge fit a regular guitar bridge pin? Could just stick on of those in there for each string.

That said, there's a technique to keeping tension on both ends when you're changing strings with a pinless bridge. Kind of a nuisance but not bad once you figure it out.

[seannx]

Originally Posted by byudzai

Does the new pinless bridge fit a regular guitar bridge pin? Could just stick on of those in there for each string.

That said, there's a technique to keeping tension on both ends when you're changing strings with a pinless bridge. Kind of a nuisance but not bad once you figure it out.

I tried a regular bridge pin compared to Bob’s tapered dowel. It was too thick, and didn’t work.

[BlueStarfish]

Hi SprintBob,

Responding to your original prompt of favorite strings on X20 -- my current favorites are the Martin PB "medium lights" with the 12.5-55 gage.

Caveat is that I don't fingerpick at all -- I play solely with a flatpick. So my reasons for preferring these strings may or may not apply for you.

I like this particular string set because of the gage. The gage is halfway between a light and a medium set. I have tried a variety of lights in different materials, as well as mediums, and also mixed-gage sets (some lights / some mediums). What I've found is that, for playing with a flatpick on an X20 ...

... the all-medium sets, as well as the mixed sets with mediums on the treble strings, have a little too much tension for the guitar, and compromise the tone. They sound a bit thin and over-trebly. Tone sounds choked off for lack fo a better description. Guitar sounds particularly wimpy with a capo above the 2nd fret. Which is a shame because they feel good under my pick, I like the feel of the tension.

... the all-light sets have better tone on the trebles, but bass tone is slightly less defined (especially 6th string) so the guitar sounds slightly muddy playing rhythm. Additionally, the strings feel "floppy" under my pick, which I don't like.

I've recently become aware of the 12.5-55 gage sets and tried them out. Well, it's the Goldilocks story "this one is just right!" Tension is great, tone is great (even with capo), I'm sold. I have to say, with this set on my X20, the guitar sounds remarkably similar to my current favorite wood guitar (an Alvarez OM-style spruce-and-mahogany build) using the same string set. Which makes sense in a way -- the Alvarez is a lightly built OM, and the X20 is basically a deep-bodied OM in terms of dimensions.

I only wish Martin produced the 12.5-55 gage sets as Retros (monel) and / or Lifespans (PB coated). They only do the PB uncoated in this gage, and I'd prefer the other materials for reasons of durability. But the uncoated are pretty inexpensive so it's OK and I'm loving the feel and tone.