#16
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Thank you for keeping the knowledge chain alive and well.
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#17
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The bridal joint demonstrates the ability of this builder. Im glad hes demonstrating the dovetail as it is a signature of a skilled builder. And hes right, build to eliminate resets rather than bolt guitars together. Theres just something wrong with the idea of bolting guitars together.
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#18
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edited........
Last edited by charles Tauber; 05-29-2020 at 03:12 PM. |
#19
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I would be disappointed if this thread devolves into yet another argument about the merits of the dovetail vs the bolt-on. This is a thread about how to make a dovetail. A lot of modern builders appear intimidated by the dovetail, But it is not the hardest thing about the work we do. It is an elegant solution, and a pleasure to accomplish. I hope to make it seem more accessible by sharing some of my knowledge and experience.
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#20
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Quote:
Thanks for sharing how you make a dovetail. I appreciate your efforts as I'm sure many others do. |
#21
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Bruce
Did I pick that up right ,you use two different dovetail bits ,14 for the neck,,and 13 for the body? Again Thanks for the thread |
#22
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For many years I always did that, and recommend it. Lately I just wade in and make my undercuts, so the 14 alone is getting more use. If one were more dedicate to a specific model than I am, using a 13 and a 14 could make undercutting the dovetail cheeks unnecessary in a production situation.
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#23
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So far I have unfortunately not found a 13 degree routing bit. But a lot with 14 degrees. Would a 14 degree bit be sufficient?
__________________
Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#24
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Of course! I think it is a good idea to hand cut a dovetail joint, if just to get a hands on feel for exactly how they work.
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#25
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I was not intimating that one was better than the other for great, great guitars are made with bolt ons, one of which Id be thrilled to own. I was stating that it takes skill to do a dovetail that wont cause problems.
Thank you again for sharing your info of what seems to be a dying skill for the ease of the bolt on. |
#26
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It never occurred to me that you could design and build a neck to eliminate the possibility of a reset. I just figured it was the nature of the beast. Good to know it's not.
__________________
OM-28 Marquis (2005) Kenny Hill Player (nylon) Gibson AJ (2012) Rogue Resonator (kindling) |
#27
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The flaw in guitar design that necessitate neck resets is not the neck OR the neck to body connection, assuming those things are done right. The problem is top structure. A dovetail joint, properly fitted and glued will last at least 100 years. Because screws unscrew themselves over time, a bolt-on will likely require occasional tightening, but it is easily done.
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#28
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Excellent thread Bruce, and it is indeed gratifying to see that you are one of the select few who are unconfused by the tenon/shoulder/cheek terminology.
I do, however, feel compelled to point out that the joint you employ to attach the neck to the headstock is properly called a "bridle joint"' A "Bridal Joint" is a different affair altogether, and I attach a pic below to illustrate the difference. Last edited by murrmac123; 06-01-2020 at 04:41 PM. |
#29
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I am uneducated, and although I did get through high school, I spent a lot of time drawing motorcycles on the margins of my notepaper. I always liked tests though, as I could generally figure them out no matter what they were about, and had fun doing it.
If I were naming a joint between two unaligned pieces of wood, it seems like alluding to marriage would be more appropriate than to rope and a bit. |
#30
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When you get a chance Bruce, I am sure the fitting of the neck would go over well.
__________________
Fred |