Bridge pins

[Blue will]

I checked the string wrap at the ball on a .053 low E is .068". I checked the Tusq traditional pin slot and it's .062" deep the presentation pins have a C shaped slot and are .031" deep.

trouble is to use the traditional pins I need to remove at least .012" at the top and .004 at the bottom . The presentation pins should fit without removing anything , all I would need to do is either file the slot deeper in each pin or slightly slot the pin hole to allow the string room to fit. From all I've read most pins holes start at 3/16" then are reamed , the ball needs at least 1/8" to go through the pin hole. I have no idea what the RK pin hole size is without measuring. All I do know is the presentation pins are .194" under the skirt and .1615 3/4" down from the skirt I asked Bob Colosi and he confirmed both were a 3 degree taper. That being said if I use the pres pins they are .001 larger 3//4" down from the skirt than the Trad pins are yet they are both a 3 degree taper.

Traditional pins = .2085 under skirt .1605 3/4" down
Presentation pins = .194" under shirt . 1615 3/4" down. These are just a bit over 3/4" from the skirt to the end of the pins taper length the trad pins are just under 1" long skirt to end of taper. I know they worked in my Seagull and the cheap RK meaning the pins end was past the ball at least by 3/16". Which is enough.

[A Scot in Otley]

Just had similar with a Blueridge. Took small rat tail file to the 6th string hole - went around the inside for a very short time: maybe 2 minutes. Pin fits, string doesn't push up pin. Job done.

[Riakstonic]

https://www.philadelphialuthiertools...-hole-reamers/

[Blue will]

Originally Posted by Riakstonic

https://www.philadelphialuthiertools...-hole-reamers/

Thank you:

I found that reamer on Ebay $57.12 shipped, but it is 3 degree. And yes I have no idea what the RK pins are but they are cheap plastic and aren't really 3 degree.

I did order a slotting saw not SM they are just to expensive mostly the shipping. This one has one blade which is .025" so I can slightly slot the bridge to allow the string to fit using the Graph Tech pins I got.

First I need to see how the pins fit with no string and if they do then decide if i want to just slot the pin hole just enough to allow the strings to fit (pin in). Or file the pins slot which seems more difficult. Most needle files have a cutting edge on all sides unless I grind that off and if I don't and use the file as is it will be difficult not to male the slot to wide which I don't want.

I know if I choose that way then the reamer if needed still might work using the Graph Tech Traditional pins which have a larger diameter under the skirt and a smaller head.
I imagine you are familiar with Graph Tech, they only offer 2 types of pins , both in black or white and both have many options of inlays . The traditional have small inlays the Presentation have large inlays. I opted for the Traditional white with black dot to match what come in this RK and Presentation solid black. I have no problem with all black. But $57 for a reamer right now for one guitar , that I am not sure of just yet. I could buy a lot of strings for that. If I had other acoustic that needed the holes reamed then it would be worth it . It is less than the one tech near me charges , he wants $100.

[kizz]

My advice is, beware of making bridge pins rocket science and spending a lot of $ on it, you probably already have the tools. Play some guitar instead...

[mercy]

Heres an Amazon version e.amazon.com/dp/B07ZFLRBPP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_p

[Tenn]

I am not sure you will care but many guitar manufacturers will not honor warranty work for the bridge and related structure if you slot the bridge post purchase. If this matters to you, check with the manufacturer to see their policy.

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by Tenn

I am not sure you will care but many guitar manufacturers will not honor warranty work for the bridge and related structure if you slot the bridge post purchase. If this matters to you, check with the manufacturer to see their policy.

My understanding, at least of CFM’s position on this, from knowledgeable sources on other forums, is that, provided the work is carried out properly, it will not invalidate the warranty for the bridge and related structure - in fact their own Authentic Series instruments have slotted bridges, so they have no problem with slotted bridges per se, only with bridges that have not been properly slotted.

Maybe other builders take a similar view?

[Blue will]

I am confused, maybe someone here can help me understand. I read before the pin hole is reamed there is a 3/16" hole drilled then it's reamed. Say it's a 3 degree even a 5 degree. 3/16"= .187". If one measures the pin either taper right where is exits the plate the pin is smaller than .187". I have looked inside my acoustics all having slotted pins and see no gap between the pin and plates hole.

Is the entire hole reamed or is it just the upper 3rd. The string ball is just over .125" so why drill a .187" hole? My pin is .1615" where it exits the plate .187 - .1615= .022" which means it's .011" gap , is this right?

[Blue will]

Originally Posted by Tenn

I am not sure you will care but many guitar manufacturers will not honor warranty work for the bridge and related structure if you slot the bridge post purchase. If this matters to you, check with the manufacturer to see their policy.

It doesn't matter. My only concern is the new pins fit proper and not nearly as overly tight as the cheap plastic Recording King pins fit. I want just a drop in fit with no string and a good fit with the string. The only reason I would slot the pin holes is because the pins do not have a deep enough slot to allow the strings room to fit. I have two options , deepen the pins slot or slot the holes just enough to allow room the the string wraps. The expensive and 3rd option is a 3 degree reamer which I feel I can hopefully do without.

[Blue will]

I tried the 2 types of Tusq pins. The presentation black fit the high E with the string in. The Low E would not without slotting the pin holes each a different size to allow the string wraps to clear . I tried one without the string in the low E hole and it felt a bit loose at the top. It seems when I removed the cheap plastic pins a few times the went in easier but not so much coming out. Plus the low E plastic pin already has a mashed pin side of the pins slot.

I looked at the pins holes and all have a slight spiral groove which is probably why the pins began to go in easier.

So with that said I just ordered a 3 degree taper reamer on Ebay the one suggested here. and will use the traditional pins which have a large enough under skirt that i can ream them to fit I don't like the idea of trying to cut grooves in the pin holes or the slightly loose fit of the black pins.

I do like black pins so I reached out to the seller because he pays the return shipping and want to get the black with the white dot , prefer all black but he does not have all black in that pin. I can live with the white black dot I have and if he does the return black with white dot will look better , I can paint the white dot out , it's small. Other wise if I want all black I would need to shell out another $24. I've already spent enough.

[Blue will]

Originally Posted by Riakstonic

And here we go ! Lol RK pins if there like the ones I got are cheap plastic metric sized pins that are all over the place in size .

I also highly recommend Guitarsaddles.com

Bob is great to work with . So what to do ? If your handy and steady handed . Order the pins you like.

Im snobby and go with FWI . Lol anyway you can find online a 3 deg tapper reamer pin tool mine was about 40 bucks but there might be cheaper ones .

Thing about them is you can easily over do it so you have go slow and steady while reaming the holes for the new pins .

If you have a good tech or luthier they can do it easily enough . [emoji4]

You are correct. I did get the reamer but waiting for it to get here, also have Graghtech pins 2 sets what I don't like are the casting ridges on the ball or the what look like shallow chips opposite the slot. I like all black and Bob has Buffalo horn in the type I need so later I'll buy a set. He has the 1.3T and 1T .203 or .210. Since I need to change the strings and the Graphtech are .208 to .209" I'll get his 1T pins and if I need to make the slight chamfer just a bit deeper. I'll practice on scrap wood first.

[Blue will]

I finally replaced the bridge pins on my 2022 Recording King G6 parlor.

I removed all the strings then used Gragh Tech traditional pins black/white dot.

Then reamed each hole with a good 3 degree taper reamer as good as Stew Mac sells only $53 for this one. I did each one until the pins fit to the skirt without force. Before I did the reaming they stood 1/4" tall from the skirt.

Once I did all I couldn't get the Low E ,A and D to fit with the string so I carefully slotted the pin holes until each pin fit string in. The reason the cheap Recording King pins fit without the slot is the slot is 3/32" deep where the true 3 degree Tusq pins are 1/16" deep. I had to slot the low E deeper and less on the A and D , didn't need to slot the G,B & E.

I removed the saddle and found it was rough cut on the bottom and not level so I sanded that just enough to get it true and flat and cleaned the slot , it was light sanding didn't alter the action.

I polished the frets and noticed they were level but not rounded over an many like RK dressed them but didn't re crown most. I plays well so something I will do later on.

I used the same D'Addario 12-53 PB lights it had from the factory but were over a year old. Tuned it up and was amazed how much easier the fretting was, was much less effort fretting each than before even though they are the same gauge and brand.

Only thing is I scratched the top with a string near the bridge and while using my small flash light with a mirror dropped it and chipped a tiny bit of finish on the top binding. I am going to try to buff the scratch out it's not deep,1/2" long, maybe tooth paste or polishing compound I have , doesn't have to be perfect just bugs me. And see if super glue will fill the chip I did. There are other finish issues on the treble side of the top neck to the finger board that were not addressed and the small scratches I made anchoring my pinkie while finger picking , I don't mind my own wear. It's not a high end acoustic but that scratch really stands out and was not there. I read a brown paper bag might buff out a light scratch or maybe 0000 steel wool then buff .

Any suggestions on the scratch and small chip are welcome.
Thank you
William

[kathyson]

Just talked with Recording King and a dealer. The pins taper should be 5 degree.

[Blue will]

Originally Posted by kathyson

Just talked with Recording King and a dealer. The pins taper should be 5 degree.

I gave the measurements to Bob Colosi and he said they are 3 degree and also said most recording kings are. Even did the calculation and they come out to 3 degree.