Pretty "New" Parker Plays Poorly - HELP!

[Kojo27]

Hey guys,

I just bought an unplayed Parker PA-24 off eBay -- got it for about the cost of the case -- but as I expected, there's something weird here, for an almost mint-condition guitar.

It came from Rocky Mountain WAY-HIGH - and when it arrived here in Kentucky, a truss rod never looked so good. Had 1/8" action and a big back-bow. Played sharp - okay, totally out of tune! - everywhere except along the G string.

I restrung it - it had the factory strings. Took all the relief out of the neck just minutes ago -- and now it's playing much closer to "in tune" (still tends toward sharpness, about like a 70s Martin), EXCEPT along the B string, and this makes the guitar unplayable, as it intonates so sharp - if my Korg is marked in cents, the B string notes are playing 15-20 cents sharp! Out of tune. A cowboy "D" chord sounds like a ruptured duck.

In the picture below, notice that the tortoise binding along the fingerboard has at some point been broken, cracked, whatever - and possibly "fixed back," or maybe it didn't need repair - I don't know. The neck appears dead straight to me, but I admit I've never been an expert at sighting down a fingerboard.

With the proper amount of relief in the neck, and low "Parker" action (Taylor-like), there are some fret buzzes, but only at a few spots. I suppose some or all of this might improve with a bit more time, but I've never seen a guitar with just ONE string playing so sharp that it destroys the guitar. Using a capo doesn't help much. Am I in for a neck reset? What would make it do this?

Any ideas for things I could try? Do I need to check the neck angle? How, if so? Your help's greatly appreciated....

http://www.box.net/shared/q5ycji28m6s9nfdfqp32


KJ

[sachi]

Images need to have a .jpg or .gif or .tiff ending before you can post them using the image source link.

Go here to see the pics:

http://www.box.net/shared/08bcleko7f33d8oymfxs

http://www.box.net/shared/uv5vrc2zmenc21qbmoej

http://www.box.net/shared/q5ycji28m6s9nfdfqp32

[Kojo27]

They have a .JPG extension. The jazz guitar forum is like this now for some reason. We can't "attach" anything. The "Insert a Link" here doesn't work for me either -- I had to paste it straight in. ???? (Others at the jazz forum have the same problem.)

[gitnoob]

Things like neck relief and neck angle aren't going to have a huge effect on intonation, but here's some info for you:

http://www.frets.com/fretspages/musi...neckangle.html

http://www.frets.com/fretspages/luth...ef/relief.html

The intonation is usually fine-tuned by shaping the saddle. If it's way off, the bridge or saddle slot may have been mislocated.

[badbazil]

You have an intonation problem that deals with tha saddle. You need to compensate by filing the saddle. File the string break closer to the nut if the string is sharp and closer to the end of the guitar if it's flat. You use a needle under the string you are testing and move the needle back and forth until the open string is in tune with the note on the 12th fret.

[mb propsom]

First of all, buzzing on certain frets most likely means there are some high frets. You might need to have them dressed. And regarding compensation, it's actually the opposite of the advice given in the previous post. If a particular string is playing sharp when fretted up the neck, it needs more compensation, not less. That means the break point on the saddle needs to be farther from the nut, not closer. If the the break point for said string is as far back as possible, and the string is still playing sharp, ideally the saddle slot should be filled and a new slot should be routered farther back (as Gitnoob mentioned). Also, B strings are usually the troublemakers when it comes to playing too sharp. In my opinion the "industry standard" saddles (1/8" or so) are too narrow to provide accurate compensation for all six strings. I install 3/16" or 1/4" saddles in my instruments. Given the string buzzes and intonation issues, you probably want to take this to a reputable repairperson.

[sachi]

Originally Posted by Kojo27

They have a .JPG extension.

I copied the urls you posted as links. None of them have a .jpg extension, as you notice. Your pictures may be jpgs, but your links do not share that extension.

[Kojo27]

Originally Posted by sachi

I copied the urls you posted as links. None of them have a .jpg extension, as you notice. Your pictures may be jpgs, but your links do not share that extension.

Ah, I see. Thanks!

[Kojo27]

Originally Posted by gitnoob

Things like neck relief and neck angle aren't going to have a huge effect on intonation, but here's some info for you:

http://www.frets.com/fretspages/musi...neckangle.html

http://www.frets.com/fretspages/luth...ef/relief.html

The intonation is usually fine-tuned by shaping the saddle. If it's way off, the bridge or saddle slot may have been mislocated.

Thanks, gitnoob! I'll read these now. : )

Originally Posted by badbazil

You have an intonation problem that deals with tha saddle. You need to compensate by filing the saddle. File the string break closer to the nut if the string is sharp and closer to the end of the guitar if it's flat. You use a needle under the string you are testing and move the needle back and forth until the open string is in tune with the note on the 12th fret.

I appreciate this, badbazil. The trick with the needle is new to me - love it. I gotta try it.

Originally Posted by mb propsom

First of all, buzzing on certain frets most likely means there are some high frets. You might need to have them dressed. And regarding compensation, it's actually the opposite of the advice given in the previous post. If a particular string is playing sharp when fretted up the neck, it needs more compensation, not less. That means the break point on the saddle needs to be farther from the nut, not closer. If the the break point for said string is as far back as possible, and the string is still playing sharp, ideally the saddle slot should be filled and a new slot should be routered farther back (as Gitnoob mentioned). Also, B strings are usually the troublemakers when it comes to playing too sharp. In my opinion the "industry standard" saddles (1/8" or so) are too narrow to provide accurate compensation for all six strings. I install 3/16" or 1/4" saddles in my instruments. Given the string buzzes and intonation issues, you probably want to take this to a reputable repairperson.

Yep - it's still playing not just a little sharp, but out of tune. Useless as a guitar, unless maybe as a slide guitar, and too nice a box just for that. Off to the shop, wallet in hand.

kj

[badbazil]

You are welcome. Have fun!