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#16
04-28-2020, 10:14 AM
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Thanks for the feedback on the tru oil. I got a bottle from the manufacturer so I don’t think it was diluted, but you’ve got me thinking I better have this thing sanded down just right. I think I do but I’ll go over it again just to be sure.
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#17
04-28-2020, 10:22 AM
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The proper finish for that would be nitro. That's what I would suggest using. You can buy good quality rattle can Nitro from Stemac and other luthier houses. I would practice first on either a cheap guitar or just some wood.
It's too bad the whole thing is stripped down but it is what it is now...
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#18
04-28-2020, 12:09 PM
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#20
04-28-2020, 12:48 PM
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Thanks for all the responses! It's funny that I ask 10 people for their opinion and I get 10 different responses. I truly appreciate everyone's feedback and I'm sure you all know much more than I do, but at this point I'm going to go ahead with the Tru Oil. I've gotten a lot of good feedback on that stuff from some well respected luthiers so I'm going to give it a shot. As far as deadening the response, well if you heard me play, that could only be a good thing! ;-)
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#22
04-28-2020, 01:30 PM
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You should see the L3 I'm working on now. It's a pre-war Banner Gib and the top is destroyed but I'm doing everything I can to save it, make it playable and retain some value.  Tru-oil is pretty easy to apply and it looks pretty darn good too. Good luck.
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#24
04-29-2020, 05:52 AM
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If you have a good area for it, I would suggest a good quality spray lacquer. You can get it in spray cans, just make sure you get real lacquer - some companies call their plastic/uerathane/oil concoctions lacquer, which it's not. Before you start to finish, make sure it is smooth sanded down to at least 300 grit. I like to lightly wet the wood to help raise the grain, then after it's dried, sand it again. You may want to look at Guitar ReRanch for spray lacquer, it's made especially for guitars. They have a vintage clear that has a bit of amber tint to it that can help restore the patina and vintage look...good luck. If you get frustrated, just back off for a bit......
__________________
______________ ---Tom H ---
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#26
04-30-2020, 05:43 AM
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You won't find Guitar ReRanch in stores. They have a website. It also has a lot of good information, such as how to deal with waterslide decals....
https://www.reranch.com/
__________________
______________ ---Tom H ---
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#27
04-30-2020, 06:30 AM
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#28
05-20-2020, 01:47 PM
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Waterslide Decal
Aloha again, guys. I've got the guitar back from the luthier and he has the action all setup nicely. It plays amazing. The sound is fantastic and it's really turned out to be a nice guitar.
I found a guy that sold the right Gibson headstock logo as a waterslide decal and applied it as I was supposed to. I watched lots of videos and read all the instructions. The logo went on nicely, but the top clear layer remained very visible. I thought it would go away or peel off like a die-cut sticker might. It didn't though, and when I tried to remove it after letting it sit for about 36 hours, it peeled right through the logo. SO, now I'm hesitant to add another one as I feel even if I were to seal the headstock after application, the cutout clear film is still going to be visible, right? What I'm wondering now, is has anyone used other types of applications for headstock logos? Such as maybe taking the guitar to a printer that can print on 3D material, or a high quality stamp or such? I can create a vector file of the logo, I'm sure, but not sure what is the best option. Maybe because I didn't pore fill the guitar, or maybe because I kept it with a matte satin finish the clear shows up more, I don't know. Any advice on a different way to apply the logo before I seal the headstock? Thank you so much! 
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