Bridge Plate

[MikelW17]

Hi, This is my first time here.
I am trying to figure out if there is any method for removing a bridge plate that has probably been epoxied on. It's an old Yamaha 12 string that I've had for probably 50 years and has sentimental value. It's bellied and I've only recently looked at it in depth for the first time and found out that the bridge plate the back row of pegs don't even go through the bridge plate but behind it. I'm assuming it's a plate for a six string. I'm trying to avoid replacing the top unless I really can't get it off.

[Talldad]

What’s your motivation here Mike?

If the rear six strings are pulling through the soundboard then a luthier could glue an additional plate to take the pressure of the ball ends. Was it even designed as a 12 string or adapted?

The bellying is possibly due to the braces being insufficient to resist the pull of 12 strings for 50 years. Replacing a bridge plate isn’t really your first port of call here, the solution is likely to be around those braces.

That said, if it plays nicely and it’s lasted this long, just enjoy.

[redir]

That's impressive that it lasted like that for 50 years. Assuming you are the original owner you probably would have noticed if it cracked off. Of course 50 years is a lot of time to forget too.

Pics would really help. I just removed an oversized plate on a Gibson LG2 that someone had replaced and epoxied in and it was nightmare. It's not at all easy to do and will probably cause damage.

Do you know for a fact that this plate was epoxied in? It would probably have to have been a replacement plate if that's the case. If it's 50 years old then it's one of the first few years that Yamaha made guitars, at least for the US market iirc, and they would not have used epoxy and instead it's probably hide glue.

IT would probably be better to take it to a luthier/tech and see what they thing, you could add a piece of plate wood to widen the existing plate so that the strings have something to bear on.

As mentioned there are other factors in what causes a guitar to belly. Is the action still reasonably good on it? Or is the belly so bad the action is high? In that case a neck reset is probably what you need.

If you take good inside out pics of the guitar it would help any of the experts here on this forum give you some advice.

[John Arnold]

If it is the original plate, it may be laminated. If that is the case, it may peel up in layers.
I usually end up removing epoxied plates by carving with a finger plane.

[MikelW17]

Like I said, there's an emotional attachment to it. My father and I went to Manny's in NYC in 1968 and I got it as a 16th birthday present. Obviously, as a kid I didn't take care of it well. It was bought as a 12 string, not converted. The fact that the rear row of pins misses the bridge plate suggests the wrong assembly line or whatever at the factory.
My plan is to remove the bridge, bridge plate and install a bridge doctor to bring down the bellying. If not, I'll do a neck re-set. I'm not positive it's epoxy, but I've been told in various conversations that that is how Yamaha did it back then. It would be great if it wasn't epoxy.
I was just wondering if anyone had to deal with epoxied bridge plates, bridges, etc.

[Monsoon1]

if the back of that plate was cut in a clean straight line, you could add another piece behind it, and glue it to the edge of the current plate as well as to the bottom of the soundboard. and if you could match it perfectly at the bracing edges too, you'd have a piece that would hold up for the long run.

[phavriluk]

we observers from a distance all mean well, but making the guitar happy again (and resolving a poorly installed bridge plate) would be better served by a professional's inspection. And I would discard any quick-fix remedies until after the guitar's been inspected firsthand.

[BradHall]

Do the bridge plate extension ( or have it professionally done) before you consider a bridge doctor. If it sounds and plays alright after 50 years just play it as is after the minor repair. In my opinion the BD will kill the tone significantly.

[printer2]

Originally Posted by Monsoon1

if the back of that plate was cut in a clean straight line, you could add another piece behind it, and glue it to the edge of the current plate as well as to the bottom of the soundboard. and if you could match it perfectly at the bracing edges too, you'd have a piece that would hold up for the long run.

I did this one one guitar. The pins went through right at the edge. I glued a piece the same height as the original plate, then I laminated a thin sheet on top of the original plate and the addition. The width of the top sheet did not go over the whole plate, just enough to tie the two pieces together.

[MikelW17]

Thanks Fred, that sounds like a good idea. And it beats my original idea of just replacing the top!