Re-stringing guitars with Slotted headstocks - REVISED !

[Orfeas]

Very well made and informative video Andy!

Thanks for putting this together.

[Silly Moustache]

Originally Posted by TBman

I don't get the laying down of the guitar. Isn't it a pita to wind and unwind? I see the overhanging of the guitar, but still....

I do mine with the guitar in a stand.

I find it easier to use a worktop. No - not a PITA at all - I actually enjoy the process, but I know someone as experienced as I as a musician, who restrings his guitars, dobro and mandolin sitting on his couch - I can't imagine not getting all sorts of backache etc., that way.

I can't imagine trying to do this on a stand but if that works for you - that's fine.
As I mentioned this is "MY" method and I'm not about to start preaching.

[drplayer]

Thanks for taking the time to do this...excellent job!

[Denny B]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

Hi, Many of you might be familiar with my earlier videos on this matter, and I have received many PMs and emails thanking me.

However, I have looked at other methodologies and taken from them aspects which I think further simplify and speed up the process.

So, I've made a new video (roll of drums !)

This video is in "realtime" and so takes as long as it took to both do the job and do the narrative.

Underneath the video I've explained the methodology and I'll also reprint it below.

PLEASE NOTE: This is MY methodology. I accept no responsibility for any loss or damage caused and recommend that you develop whatever methods you prefer.

Credits: Blitzen the cat and Timothy Taylor "Landlord" Pale ale.

Here goes :



Here is the methodology which you are welcome to cut and paste :

New methodology for re-stringing slotted headstock guitars.

Requirements :
• A well lit worktop - with protective cover – carpet or towel
• String winder (I use an electric screwdriver with “Stewmac” adaptor)
• String winder/bridge pin extractor/pincer (Planet Waves or similar)
• Small pair of pliers
• Neck support.
• Digital tuner

Methodology :
1. Lay guitar on work top (protected with carpet or towel)
2. Use neck support – with headstock over edge of worktop.
3. De-tension all strings and remove strings – use pliers as necessary
4. Remove strings from bridge – using bridge pin extractor
5. Dispose of strings safely
6. (Optional) Clean guitar as you prefer
7. (Optional) Check interior for dust, detritus, and loose struts etc.
8. Open new string pack , unwind and lay on worktop
9. Insert ALL strings into appropriate pin holes and secure with bridge pins
10. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
11. Check by feel or mirror (inside body) that all strings correctly set with barrels between bridgeplate and bridge pins
12. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
13. Lay strings in a sheaf across the body and out of your way.
14. Set all tuning machines to suitable angle for barrel holes to accept strings
15. Take 1st and 6th strings (or on 12 string 1st and 6th course), and lay string straight across fretboard to headstock – CUT strings app. 1.5-2” longer than where string meets the tuner barrel
N.b. – I prefer to work from outside to in because I find it easier:
16. Using pliers make 90 degree kink in end of string – ¼” to ½” from end.
17. Using winder (screwdriver or manual) to wind on the two cut strings.
N.b. – For these two strings, I like to wind with initial wind “inside” then rest outside – so that string winds straight over nut.
18. Repeat with 2nd & 5th strings/course, cutting 1.5-2” longer than where string passes over appropriate barrels
N’b. – I wind 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th outside for first wind then inside for the rest – again, keeping strings as straight over the nut as possible.
This enables strings to be as straight as possible over nut – thereby causing less sideways tension, wear, and potential string capture.
19. Bring all to tune.
20. Grasp each string firmly and stretch slightly two or three times.
21. Retune.

July 2016.

Andy, just wanted to give this vid of yours a bump, and tell you how much I appreciated your tips...

Just changed strings on my slothead again, and for the first time, it went slick and quick...

Thanks much....

[Brucebubs]

What about 'round core wire' strings like these new Martin Titanium that can't be pre-cut.
Instructions are to cut only after string has been wrapped around tuning peg 2-3 times and bought up to pitch!
Wow, fine on a paddle head but awkward and a potential 'scratch hazard' on a slot-head.



I abandoned trying them on my only slot head guitar for this very reason, pity because they are proving to be excellent strings.

[dneal]

Originally Posted by Brucebubs

What about 'round core wire' strings like these new Martin Titanium that can't be pre-cut.
Instructions are to cut only after string has been wrapped around tuning peg 2-3 times and bought up to pitch!
Wow, fine on a paddle head but awkward and a potential 'scratch hazard' on a slot-head.

I abandoned trying them on my only slot head guitar for this very reason, pity because they are proving to be excellent strings.

The round cores I use regularly on my slot heads are DR and Newtone. I identify the length I want, reference that spot with my thumb and insert the string into the hole in the tuner up to that point.

I start winding, keeping tension on the string until that first 90 degree bend at the tuner happens. A little past that, well before the string comes back up through the slot is when I cut the excess length (from the bottom of the headstock).

I haven't had a problem, and although I haven't tried Martin's new titanium strings, I don't see any reason the method above wouldn't work with them too.

[Brucebubs]

Originally Posted by dneal

The round cores I use regularly on my slot heads are DR and Newtone. I identify the length I want, reference that spot with my thumb and insert the string into the hole in the tuner up to that point.

I start winding, keeping tension on the string until that first 90 degree bend at the tuner happens. A little past that, well before the string comes back up through the slot is when I cut the excess length (from the bottom of the headstock).

I haven't had a problem, and although I haven't tried Martin's new titanium strings, I don't see any reason the method above wouldn't work with them too.

I thought about trying that at the time but being as the strings were sent to me to trial here in Australia from Martin USA, if I got it wrong there were no spares and the trial set would become useless so I took the safer route and used a paddle head guitar.

[sford52]

Hey, thanks SM.
Restringing my 000-17sm was not a problem, barely an inconvenience!

[kevinplarson]

Can you explain more the outside - inside / inside - outside approach? #17

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

Hi, Many of you might be familiar with my earlier videos on this matter, and I have received many PMs and emails thanking me.

However, I have looked at other methodologies and taken from them aspects which I think further simplify and speed up the process.

So, I've made a new video (roll of drums !)

This video is in "realtime" and so takes as long as it took to both do the job and do the narrative.

Underneath the video I've explained the methodology and I'll also reprint it below.

PLEASE NOTE: This is MY methodology. I accept no responsibility for any loss or damage caused and recommend that you develop whatever methods you prefer.

Credits: Blitzen the cat and Timothy Taylor "Landlord" Pale ale.

Here goes :



Here is the methodology which you are welcome to cut and paste :

New methodology for re-stringing slotted headstock guitars.

Requirements :
• A well lit worktop - with protective cover – carpet or towel
• String winder (I use an electric screwdriver with “Stewmac” adaptor)
• String winder/bridge pin extractor/pincer (Planet Waves or similar)
• Small pair of pliers
• Neck support.
• Digital tuner

Methodology :
1. Lay guitar on work top (protected with carpet or towel)
2. Use neck support – with headstock over edge of worktop.
3. De-tension all strings and remove strings – use pliers as necessary
4. Remove strings from bridge – using bridge pin extractor
5. Dispose of strings safely
6. (Optional) Clean guitar as you prefer
7. (Optional) Check interior for dust, detritus, and loose struts etc.
8. Open new string pack , unwind and lay on worktop
9. Insert ALL strings into appropriate pin holes and secure with bridge pins
10. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
11. Check by feel or mirror (inside body) that all strings correctly set with barrels between bridgeplate and bridge pins
12. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
13. Lay strings in a sheaf across the body and out of your way.
14. Set all tuning machines to suitable angle for barrel holes to accept strings
15. Take 1st and 6th strings (or on 12 string 1st and 6th course), and lay string straight across fretboard to headstock – CUT strings app. 1.5-2” longer than where string meets the tuner barrel
N.b. – I prefer to work from outside to in because I find it easier:
16. Using pliers make 90 degree kink in end of string – ¼” to ½” from end.
17. Using winder (screwdriver or manual) to wind on the two cut strings.
N.b. – For these two strings, I like to wind with initial wind “inside” then rest outside – so that string winds straight over nut.
18. Repeat with 2nd & 5th strings/course, cutting 1.5-2” longer than where string passes over appropriate barrels
N’b. – I wind 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th outside for first wind then inside for the rest – again, keeping strings as straight over the nut as possible.
This enables strings to be as straight as possible over nut – thereby causing less sideways tension, wear, and potential string capture.
19. Bring all to tune.
20. Grasp each string firmly and stretch slightly two or three times.
21. Retune.

July 2016.

[kevinplarson]

Anyone able to answer this?

[Brucebubs]

Originally Posted by kevinplarson

Anyone able to answer this?

Sure, on my Martin slot head I wind 1 & 6 strings from the hole in the tuner shaft towards the outside of the guitar - making the straightest possible path down to the nut slot.

The other strings I wind inwards from the hole in the tuner shaft.



The strings do come close to touching the headstock in places but don't make actual contact.



On some other brands of guitars they may touch - check as you go!

[dneal]

Originally Posted by kevinplarson

Anyone able to answer this?

There are two schools of thought. One, which brucebubs shows, is to string in a manner that keeps the strings as straight as possible. The other is to string so the tension is pulling the windings tight. In brucebubs example, this would be to run the windings on the other side of the hole than what he shows.

That’s probably more important with nylon strings, since they’re more likely to slip and cause tuning issues. Another factor is where the holes in the tuning shaft are drilled, or if there’s a narrower portion of the shaft (like Taylor).

You have to accommodate the particular guitar, and mainly wind in a fashion that keeps the string off the edges of the slot.

[kevinplarson]

are these photos showing up for anyone? I appreciate the help. would really love to see what you mean. They're not showing up on my computer.

Originally Posted by Brucebubs

Sure, on my Martin slot head I wind 1 & 6 strings from the hole in the tuner shaft towards the outside of the guitar - making the straightest possible path down to the nut slot.

The other strings I wind inwards from the hole in the tuner shaft.



The strings do come close to touching the headstock in places but don't make actual contact.



On some other brands of guitars they may touch - check as you go!

[Kerbie]

Originally Posted by kevinplarson

are these photos showing up for anyone? I appreciate the help. would really love to see what you mean. They're not showing up on my computer.

Yes, Brucebubs' photos are showing up. Those two photos are hosted by Imgur and their pics usually show up for everybody, as far as I know.

[hairpuller]

I'm seeing them loud and clear!

Your guitar would sound better without that sticky note in there, Bruce!

scott