The Best Capo

[LookerBob]

Yeah, I may grab an F3 and use the F1 on my Gretsch 6120 (which I used it on for a gig last night and was quite happy with).

[gmr]

Of the small handful of capos I have tried, Shubb is easily at the top of my list. Does the job very well. Reliable. Adjustable. Lasts forever ( bought my first one in the early eighties). Great value.

[Braindead]

One of the earlier posts here mentioned changing the radius of a string bar. I bought a Thalia capo because you can change the rubber insert on the string bar to match your fretboard radius. That is important to me because of my assortment of guitars. Recently, I borrowed a Paige capo and really liked it for several reasons not the least of which is the price.
How would you bend the string bar to match your fretboard radius? Is this just a country eyeball procedure?

[Braindead]

Originally Posted by Braindead

One of the earlier posts here mentioned changing the radius of a string bar. I bought a Thalia capo because you can change the rubber insert on the string bar to match your fretboard radius. That is important to me because of my assortment of guitars. Recently, I borrowed a Paige capo and really liked it for several reasons not the least of which is the price.
How would you bend the string bar to match your fretboard radius? Is this just a country eyeball procedure?

UPDATE! After seeing the brand "Shubb" mentioned so many times, I visited their website and looked at the FineTune F3 which is a departure from their original designs. Still concerned about fretboard radius, I wandered around their website and stumbled across an article written by Rick Shubb in 2010 (http://www.shubb.com/service/radii.html). In his article, Rick explains why the "radius question" is a non-issue.

Consequently, I ordered two F3s!

[Goodallboy]

Originally Posted by Braindead

UPDATE! After seeing the brand "Shubb" mentioned so many times, I visited their website and looked at the FineTune F3 which is a departure from their original designs. Still concerned about fretboard radius, I wandered around their website and stumbled across an article written by Rick Shubb in 2010 (http://www.shubb.com/service/radii.html). In his article, Rick explains why the "radius question" is a non-issue.

Consequently, I ordered two F3s!

Explore G7th Heritage Capos, with Adaptive Radius Technology........

[jaymarsch]

Originally Posted by Goodallboy

Explore G7th Heritage Capos, with Adaptive Radius Technology........

These are pretty neat as you can go from your acoustic to your Tele and no issues whatsoever.

Best,
Jayne

[Tnfiddler]

G7th Performance 2 for me! I also have the G7th Nashville and like it too.

[donlyn]

I use a Shubb for 6 string and ukulele.

For 12 stringers, I recently converted to the new "G7th Newport 12 String Guitar Capo with Compensated String Pad". Works stupendously without requiring any re-tuning. There's some review links on another recent thread.

Edit> My reply #15 to thread at
https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=522136


Works so well, I am thinking about the G7th Heritage with the Adaptive Radius Technology to replace the Shubb.

Don

[musicman1951]

Shubb are good. G7ths are good.

If the post is for the best capo then it's the Elliott.

[Charmed Life Picks]

The original G7 Performance One (not the Two) is my fave. I use a Shubb once in a while when I really need to clamp down on a fretboard, but it always changes intonation when I do that.

sm

[jaymarsch]

Originally Posted by musicman1951

Shubb are good. G7ths are good.

If the post is for the best capo then it's the Elliott.

The Elliott has always been my favorite but there are so many to choose from these days. As good as many of them are, the Elliott in my experience still rises to the top in terms of tone, playability and ease of use.

Best,
Jayne

[RustyAxe]

Shubb ... I have several. For six-string, six-string v-neck, and 12-string. They are indestructible, and the the only part that wears is the rubber sleeve, and that can be replaced for a couple of bucks. But I've never had to do it myself. Been using them for decades, and have tried others on occasion, but never saw any reason to switch.

And for those who find intonation problems with a Shubb ... don't clamp so hard! Apply the capo, squeeze it against the fretboard with your fingers, and snug up the adjustment screw. It'll be fine for a 3 or 4 fret range without readjustment. And for the record, if you move your capo you change the intonation ... whether you hear it or not and have to tweak your tuning or not is another matter.

Elliots (and Paige, and other similar yoke types) work great, but I don't find them very versatile. Can't partial capo with 'em (eg; leaving the low E string open). And like anything else, there is no objectively "best", only what's best for the particular user.

[RustyAxe]

Originally Posted by Braindead

Still concerned about fretboard radius, I wandered around their website and stumbled across an article written by Rick Shubb in 2010 (http://www.shubb.com/service/radii.html). In his article, Rick explains why the "radius question" is a non-issue.

I'd almost agree ... but a classical guitar neck is darn near flat, and a proper radius'd capo is beneficial.

[Wade Hampton]

Originally Posted by Braindead

UPDATE! After seeing the brand "Shubb" mentioned so many times, I visited their website and looked at the FineTune F3 which is a departure from their original designs. Still concerned about fretboard radius, I wandered around their website and stumbled across an article written by Rick Shubb in 2010 (http://www.shubb.com/service/radii.html). In his article, Rick explains why the "radius question" is a non-issue.

Consequently, I ordered two F3s!

Thanks for posting that link to Rick Shubb’s article about fretboard radius issues. I hadn’t read that before, but it’s right in line with my own experiences with Shubb capos.


Wade Hampton Miller

[Charmed Life Picks]

Originally Posted by RustyAxe

Shubb ... I have several. For six-string, six-string v-neck, and 12-string. They are indestructible, and the the only part that wears is the rubber sleeve, and that can be replaced for a couple of bucks. But I've never had to do it myself. Been using them for decades, and have tried others on occasion, but never saw any reason to switch.

And for those who find intonation problems with a Shubb ... don't clamp so hard! Apply the capo, squeeze it against the fretboard with your fingers, and snug up the adjustment screw. It'll be fine for a 3 or 4 fret range without readjustment. And for the record, if you move your capo you change the intonation ... whether you hear it or not and have to tweak your tuning or not is another matter.

Elliots (and Paige, and other similar yoke types) work great, but I don't find them very versatile. Can't partial capo with 'em (eg; leaving the low E string open). And like anything else, there is no objectively "best", only what's best for the particular user.

Rusty, I have two high-end guitars both of which seem to have a slight imperfection in the neck around the third or fourth neck. These are my two best guitars that I play out with. They've been perfectly and professional set up, so it isn't that.

The G7, which I love, won't clamp down hard enough. There is the slightest of buzzes. The standard Shubb comes in handily when I need something with more grip. But then I have intonation issues. Please don't tell me the guitars need work or a fretjob or whatever. One of the best setup guy in SoCal has gone through them twice.

I tend to play a lot of G position while capoed on the fifth fret (thus I'm in C). I can ameliorate the intonation issue a lot by moving the Shubb closer to the fret, but then my rather large hands get cramped for space.

my two cents,
scott memmer