#346
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Maybe you should come a week early Kwak and surprise us and then I won't have to say ... you missed it by ... T-H-A-T much ...
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#347
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Performing surgery (scoring the finish outline) in preparation for attaching the bridge:
Hot Hide Glue: |
#348
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While the glue was drying ... someone borrowed dad's sander while working on her first "TREE" guitar!
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#349
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Now that the hide glue has set its back to work on the bridge:
Each pin is fit to each hole: Slotting the holes: |
#350
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What a nifty idea to protect the top.
__________________
Fred |
#351
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Doesn't that linoleum ok versatile damp too much vibration??
Great idea! |
#352
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It seems that necessity is the mother of all great inventions. Case in point ... Several years ago I was slotting bridge pin holes, using the files shown above. As my mind wandered off task, the file slipped out of the bridge pin hole and the file impaled the shiny new top. It was then that the linoleum mask was born out of stupidity and need. I have several of them depending on the bridge design or top size. I also have one that covers the entire top while I am working on the finger board. You will see that one very soon too
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#353
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It only damps 99.12% of the top's vibration. Its perfect for those nights when you just can't sleep and don't want to wake the rest of the family.
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#354
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I love this...way to go!
__________________
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-T...56266954411686 http://www.reverbnation.com/jayhowlett http://www.jayhowlett.com Guitars: I'm really happy to have a few nice ones. |
#355
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Thanks, Tim.
I stole the Linoleum mask idea after I saw you using it in another thread. That stuff is basically bullet proof Up until this point I was making them out of thin sheet metal. |
#356
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Glad I was able to help in some small way Brad. I use the thicker cushioned linoleum because its very flexible. The cushion adds an extra layer of protection from the errant mistake on the top side but its also soft enough on the under side, which touches fragile guitar finish, that it doesn't mar it.
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#357
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The next step is to chalk the fretboard:
Sand it level: Until the chalk is gone: This ensures that the fretboard is perfectly straight for a flat foundation to install the frets: |
#358
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After the FB is level its time to clean out any residual sanding dust or glue that may have seeped in the slots:
Then the edges of the slots are beveled slightly with a 3-corner file. This provides a smooth lead to guide the fret into each slot. If your guitar ever requires a re-fret, down the road, the bevel will also reduce chipping of the FB wood adjacent to the slot, when pulling a fret.: One final check of the customer's requested FB radius: |
#359
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The ends of the fret wire tangs must be removed to make clearance for the FB bindings and purflings:
Frets are hammered in place: |
#360
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Tim,
You need to finish this build or the MODS will shut you down! "Blast Radius" is watching!
__________________
The Electrics check The Acoustics Tom Doerr - Trinity. Flamed Maple under Swiss Tom Doerr - M/D. Braz under Red |