How much leeway is there regarding headstock thickness when installing tuners.

[Vorshack]

I'm getting ready to replace the headstock veneer on the Ibanez AC240 I'm learning on.

Not that I'm ashamed owning an Ibanez or anything silly like that. It's actually a fine little guitar and I was lucky in receiving one of the few that has a certain sweetness you don't usually find in $300 models. I just think name brands and logos ruin the aesthetic of an otherwise attractive instrument. So up yours Sarah

Anyhow, the current veneer is 0.6mm and the ebony sheet (which I'm going to lightly go over with a dark red mahogany stain) I bought is equally thick. I'm wondering if I should sand down the original or save myself some effort and just glue the new one on top of the old, assuming the Grover tuners will accommodate the extra width.

And after stripping the finish and priming it of course. I'm no stranger to woodwork or general craftiness, and the answer will likely present itself as the project ensues, it's just a detail I wanted to be sure on before I start dismantling my guitar.

Thanks in advance.

PS. Don't worry, I did my due diligence and will be using Titebond glue and Deft lacquer.

[redir]

The tuner's you have should have the specs online. My guess is that you will be fine. But bear in mind too that you are creating a sandwich with the two different veneers that will be visible from the side for better or worse.

[Vorshack]

I've considered this and I don't think it will look bad or really even be all that noticeable. It's just that grinding it all the way down by hand sounds like a pain.

I suppose I could look into what adhesive Ibanez uses and if it can be safely loosened with a heat gun. In fact, I just found a thread where a fellow describes the process of doing exactly that.

[redir]

A clothes iron might be a better tool for the job. If it's within spec of your tuner's you cold also add like a very thin white veneer too and give it a stripe. It would look intentional and is a very common thing to do.

[phavriluk]

If OP has had no experience with epoxy adhesives, now's a fine time to learn. Titebond (which has a bunch of water in it) used to attach veneers will warp an ebony headplate like crazy. Epoxy doesn't cause that warping.

[Vorshack]

Experience with epoxy and other adhesives, yes. Veneer, no.

I would think that a thin layer of wood glue, on a properly clamped 0.6mm sheet, wouldn't pose a problem but I always do a test run on principal. If it's not looking good I have a couple of epoxies on hand, I'm sure one of them will work.

I also purchased a larger sheet of ebony that I needed so there is plenty of room to make mistakes.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

Titebond (which has a bunch of water in it) used to attach veneers will warp an ebony headplate like crazy.

I've been attaching ebony head veneers with Titebond for several decades. I've never had an issue with the veneer warping at all.

[yellowesty]

⅝" .

[phavriluk]

Charles, then I need to seriously reconsider my approach to such tasks. I've been doing something seriously wrong.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

I've been attaching ebony head veneers with Titebond for several decades. I've never had an issue with the veneer warping at all.

Ditto. I've always used Titebond Original (type 1) and have never had any difficulty or problem with gluing on overlays.

[redir]

I have also used TB or hide glue, both water based, for years with no problem. Trick is to clamp tight with flat clamping cauls, plywood or mdf, and keep clamped for 24 hours.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by redir

Trick is to clamp tight with flat clamping cauls, plywood or mdf, and keep clamped for 24 hours.

I also use flat clamping cauls and as many large C clamps as can be fit. I've found as little as 4 or so hours is sufficient, but usually leave it clamped over night. I use "sufficient" but not "excessive" amounts of glue: less clean-up.

[Nahil.R]

Originally Posted by Vorshack

I'm getting ready to replace the headstock veneer on the Ibanez AC240 I'm learning on.

Not that I'm ashamed owning an Ibanez or anything silly like that. It's actually a fine little guitar and I was lucky in receiving one of the few that has a certain sweetness you don't usually find in $300 models. I just think name brands and logos ruin the aesthetic of an otherwise attractive instrument. So up yours Sarah

Anyhow, the current veneer is 0.6mm and the ebony sheet (which I'm going to lightly go over with a dark red mahogany stain) I bought is equally thick. I'm wondering if I should sand down the original or save myself some effort and just glue the new one on top of the old, assuming the Grover tuners will accommodate the extra width.

And after stripping the finish and priming it of course. I'm no stranger to woodwork or general craftiness, and the answer will likely present itself as the project ensues, it's just a detail I wanted to be sure on before I start dismantling my guitar.

Thanks in advance.

PS. Don't worry, I did my due diligence and will be using Titebond glue and Deft lacquer.

a 0.6mm veneer is very slim and I doubt your tuners will have an issue accommodating that. But as mentioned in this thread its best to look up the specs of your tuners to be sure.

[phavriluk]

Folks, how on earth is OP going to 'look up the specs' on a tuner on his guitar? I suggest he take a caliper to one of the tuners in front of him and measure it.

[redir]

The OP said something about Grover tuner's. Weather he has them or not IDK. I'm not going to look but I can garuntee the specs are online for Grover's.

But absolutely measuring? The assured way to go when they are on hand.