#1
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Fixing a bruise...
This instrument belonged to a friend who passed away about 30 years ago in a tragic accident. It sat in a case, in a closet at his parents' house ever since. Just recently, his father decided to give it to me. Other than a few minor top dings, this is the only issue, and the only one that I feel needs to be addressed in an effort to preserve the instrument.
The bruise is proud of the rest of the finish, and I'm not quite sure what do do about it. There is some loss of wood going on there, but there is no trace of this bruise on the inside of the body. I'd like to fix it, just so that it doesn't get any worse. Since it's a small bruise, on the back, with a poly finish- making it cosmetically perfect is not really an option nor necessary. I just want to repair it so that it doesn't get worse over time, because I do plan to play this guitar in honor of my friend. I could use some suggestions on how to go about repairing this. I've not done a lot of this type of stuff, but I'm a fast and careful learner. Any suggestions on how to go about fixing this would be much appreciated. Thanks |
#2
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That's not a bruise; it's broken bones.
This repair is not a beginner's project. It's a compression fracture in the wood. Take it to a pro. It can be repaired and could be barely noticeable if performed by someone experienced. The damage on the guitar below is worse than yours. Finish work on the guitar in photos can be improved further. [IMG][/IMG] |
#3
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Before attempting repair, I'd need to know what I was dealing with: What kind of guitar?
Laminated or solid? What finish? That is one big smash. Lits of broken wood. My layperson's reaction is to take this problem to an expert and have a conversation, there will be a bunch of questions and answers back and forth. What this damage is, I think, is nothing for an inexperienced person to attempt as a learn-while-doing project, but that's what a talk with a professional is for. |
#4
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It looks like a somewhat expensive fix, is it an expensive guitar that makes it viable from an economic standpoint?
I don't think it is a structural issue, i.e. the guitar will probably hold together in spite of it. My father in law left us his guitar with a very similar dent. My son has it now, it plays fine. Did the damage occur while your friend owned the guitar or after? You could just leave it as part of the history of the guitar to remind you of him. |
#5
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The guitar is a Takamine from 1987, model EF360SC. All solid woods, I believe.
The bruise is not visible on the inside of the instrument, and is about the size of a 50-cent piece. The pictures of the guitar in the second post are not mine; only the 7 images in my original post are of the instrument in question. There is no structural damage to the instrument, just that bruise. I'm sure the guitar strap came off, and the guitar hit the floor while my friend was still alive. He crafted a solution on the bottom strap button, which is also where the 1/4" cable plugs in, involving cutting a washer, spreading it open a bit, and then squeezing it back together on the button after installing a strap. Worked well, but it was a real bear to get off, so I could remove the strap. I've spoken with a few repair guys, and so far, the best suggestion I've heard was to carefully inject some titebond III under the flakes with a syringe and then clamp with a flat block, with some minor sanding and a small amount of poly either sprayed or brushed on after. Not sure how to proceed, but I'm open to suggestions. |
#6
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Quote:
The structural damage however is likely not going to impact the playability of the guitar To repair, Step 1. The area needs some steam and clamps to flatten it out Step 2. Once flattened, the area can be packed with a glue like titebond original as its a dark wood., apply clamps again Step 3. As the wood has multiple end breaks an internal patch should be made to stiffen that area up otherwise any finish work will likely crack as the wood pieces move and flex Step 4. Sand or scrape smooth the area until its clean and flush Step 5. Apply finish over the area and an additional approx 1 inch of the surrounding area Step 6. Smooth wet sand until flat and level, repeat step 5 if necessary Step 7. Buff to desired gloss level Note, it is likely a witness mark will appear in the finish, it takes a lot of experience and knowledge to minimize this affect The above steps were done on this guitar, you can see the back fractures before and after plus of course all the side cracks
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE Last edited by mirwa; 06-16-2022 at 10:58 PM. |
#7
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That model, I'm pretty sure, has laminated sides and back with a solid top.
Titebond III would not be my first choice for that job (finish issues, and other things), but I haven't had the guitar in hand. |
#8
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The appearance of the break is indicative of laminated wood.
I would favor thin super glue over Titebond because it will penetrate better. |
#9
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This absolutely makes sense! After pics must be posted!
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More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!! |