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  #16  
Old 05-18-2020, 08:56 AM
rmp rmp is online now
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I have a strat plus (96) I replaced the lace sensors, but not because they were awful, I just preferred a more traditional single coil setup.

the Plus series were nice guitars. Solid, well built. you got a good one there I'd wager.

Try 10s.. if you can!
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  #17  
Old 05-18-2020, 10:04 AM
Steve DeRosa Steve DeRosa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micawber View Post
...Several years ago i inherited a Fender Telecaster and I’m thinking about giving it a try. It’s a early 90’s Tele Plus with the lace sensors, dual red in the bridge and the single blue in the neck...Just looking for any input anyone wants to throw out there and also recommendations on strings for this model as well as a decent book or internet site that might help get me started.
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Originally Posted by ras1500 View Post
I switch between electric and acoustic on a daily basis. So I use 11's on both types of guitars for a somewhat consistent feel. However, for the electrics, I use flat wound strings with a wound G string. Round wounds on the acoustics.
Former owner of a late-CBS, first-batch '52 Tele reissue here:
  • I used 12's on mine - same strings Leo fitted as OEM, and consistent feel with my stage acoustics as stated above;
  • Also used flats - again a case of original issue and, in conjunction with the through-body stringing, took the raspy edge off the lower strings (without losing the characteristic Tele "twang") and added some "wood" to the tone;
  • I tried the Lace Sensor Fenders back in the day - a little too crispy and steely for my taste, and if you're finding the same thing I'd recommend a similar setup;
  • A further advantage of flatwound strings is that the action can be set significantly lower than with roundwounds - something the '50s jazzers and rockabilly cats all knew and used to great advantage - so as long as you're not doing five-step bends a set of flatwound 11's may be just the ticket...
If you're serious about total musicianship you'll need a solid grounding in theory as well as technique, meaning an understanding of (and proficiency in) traditional staff notation, vocabulary/terminology, scale/chord construction and nomenclature, harmony, transposition, etc.; FYI woodwind/brass/orchestral string/keyboard players don't "speak tab," generally have well-developed sight-reading ability, and IME tend to be deficient in improvisational skills unless they have a strong jazz or rock background - if you're going to be working with one of more of the above speaking the same language is a handy tool, and if you're going to be arranging and/or composing original music requiring these instruments it's an absolute necessity (in the latter case plan on learning how to read bass clef at a bare minimum, and alto/tenor clef as well if you're into more elaborate or unusual instrumentation). My general recommendation is to pick up a copy of the complete Mel Bay Guitar Method (a large, spiral-bound book): get a basic grasp of staff notation (no harder to read than tab BTW), learn to make the connection to what you can play right now, and progress from there - it won't offer the immediate gratification of most internet "lessons," but you will be a more well-rounded and proficient player in the long run...
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  #18  
Old 05-18-2020, 10:12 AM
C-ville Brent C-ville Brent is offline
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I originally started on electric, but have played over 90% acoustic guitars for the past few decades. Most electric strings should work, I use 9's on most but 10's on Les Pauls, just because that's what I do.

I play mostly first position chords on acoustic and sing. I play electric with varying amounts of gain and barre chords are my friend. Moving a few basic forms (E, A, Em, and Am) up and down the neck works for most of what I play with electric. Best of luck and have fun.
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