#1
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Re-glueing a nut
The nut on my Guild 12 string is a perfect fit but is loose and I need to glue it. It is a clean joint and nut.
What type glue should I use? Carpenters glue? Gorilla Glue? Thanks for help.
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Please note: higher than average likelihood that any post by me is going to lean heavily on sarcasm. Just so we’re clear... |
#2
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Opinions vary, but a bit of tite bond is usually sufficient. While I have used it in the past, I would not recommend super glue or the like. You will need to get the nut out again at some point
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#3
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Don't use super glue. If you don't place it exactly perfect right of the bat, then that's where it's stuck. No fine adjustment from side to side. A drop of carpenters glue works. It doesn't stick instantly so you are able to place it perfectly. Then clamp with string tension.
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Larrivee OM-03 Seagull SWS Maritime Mini Jumbo Alvarez AP70SB Parlor Alvarez AF60SHB Seagull Concert Hall Mahogany Harmony H1215. 1953 An 80 year old Kay (approx) Epiphone ES-339 Epiphone Les Paul 50's Standard 3 home built Strat's |
#4
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Gorilla glue has no place in instruments.
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#5
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That it is loose is the very definition of not a perfect fit.
As others have said, a single drop of wood glue is sufficient. If/when necessary, it is then easy to remove the nut, but it will stay in place until then. |
#6
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I just use a dab of Elmer’s white glue(like kids use in school) on the end of a toothpick. It only has to be enough to stay in place when you change strings.
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#7
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Not necessarily. On an angled head stock there is not always a slot for it to set in. I don't know what his Guild has
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#8
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The angle of the headstock has nothing to do with it but rather weather or not the head plate veneer butts up against the nut creating a slot between it and the end of the FB. Some guitars don't have that but the Guild probably does. So if it is loose there then it's not perfect but it's also nothing to worry about. A dot of glue will hold it in place well enough for removing all the strings. It seems that most techs and luthiers like to fit them nice and tight though.
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#9
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I'm trying to picture that. That occurs when there is no head veneer? Or when the head is spliced on top of the neck, rather than to the back of the neck?
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#10
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Any kind of glue should work. Just don’t use too much.
I usually just put a tiny little speck of superglue right in the middle.
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“Good grief” -Charlie “Chuck” Brown |
#11
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Quote:
I never ever glue a nut. String force will hold it in place
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#12
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A dab or two of wood glue on the front face of the nut...
...that will hold the nut in place but will be easy to break free if needed in future.
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#13
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Quote:
Acoustic wise, my Yamaha FSX800C is as well. |
#14
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I recently did the same with one of my guitars...used a bit of carpenters glue.No superglue or Gorilla glue...you may want to remove it one day and this could make it difficult.
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#15
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Can't say it any better than that.
I use liquid hyde glue. Dries nice and brittle, and then breaks loose cleanly with a light tap of my Stew-Mac fretting hammer and small wood block .
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Leonard 1918 Gibson L-1 1928 Gibson L-4 (Blond w/Ebony Fret-board) 1930's Kalamazoo KG-32 1930's Gretsch F-50 1934 Gibson L-7 1934 Gibson L-50 (KG-11/14 Body Shape) 1935 Gibson L-50 (Flat-back) 1935 Gibson L-30 (Flat-back) 1942 Gibson L-50 (WWII Banner Head) 1948 Gibson L-50 1949 Epiphone Blackstone "a sharp mind cuts cleaner than a sharp tool" |