A slight belly ... Do I need my saddle sanded?

[asilker]

I have a 2018 Guild D40 that survived it's first winter here in Chicago. I one point I over humidified the guitar and after a few days it was bellying in a fairly pronounced manner. Leaving it to "dry out" and changing to humidity packs from Boveda have returned things to normal. The guitar has a slight symmetrical belly, but I ave read he Dana Bourgeois article about belly and I am at peace on the subject

I realize that my Martin 000-18 is a radically different guitar, and I am OK with having to fight a big dread with mediums a little more, but my D40's action still feels a little stiff and high. I've tried a few truas rod tweaks but I'm thinking maybe a saddle adjustment is the thing to do.

Does a new belly mean a sanded saddle?

[martingitdave]

It’s best to take measurements and read up on the process of doing a setup. Otherwise, take it to a guitar tech. I’m in Chicago and there are lots of good setup shops depending on where you live.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by asilker

…Does a new belly mean a sanded saddle?

Hi asilker

No, it doesn't necessarily mean anything. It is normal for all guitars (including flat tops) to have a slight belly - they have around 180 pounds of pressure from the strings pulling on the bridge.

Setting action takes more than the saddle height into consideration. It involves the nut slots at proper depth, the neck relief properly set, and last the saddle being adjusted for height and intonation.

Perhaps some here will know of reliable techs or luthiers to send you to in Chicago if your setup is in need of adjustment.

[mercy]

check the action at the 1st and 12th fret. If the 1st is high file the slots then check the 12th. If its high then you sand the saddle, not before doing the nut. this assumes an almost flat relief.

[DenverSteve]

As Larry said - no. It does sound like you should get (everyone should) a quality set up and enjoy the benefits.

[ManyMartinMan]

No. Salads for a week and some sit ups should help.

[AndrewG]

Originally Posted by asilker

I have a 2018 Guild D40 that survived it's first winter here in Chicago. I one point I over humidified the guitar and after a few days it was bellying in a fairly pronounced manner. Leaving it to "dry out" and changing to humidity packs from Boveda have returned things to normal. The guitar has a slight symmetrical belly, but I ave read he Dana Bourgeois article about belly and I am at peace on the subject

I realize that my Martin 000-18 is a radically different guitar, and I am OK with having to fight a big dread with mediums a little more, but my D40's action still feels a little stiff and high. I've tried a few truas rod tweaks but I'm thinking maybe a saddle adjustment is the thing to do.

Does a new belly mean a sanded saddle?

The truss rod should not be used to set action on its own, that isn't its purpose, but only as part of a general setup which includes nut slot depth and saddle height. Truss rods only work over the central part of the neck with little or no effect at the extremes. Take your guitar to a tech. Some bellying on a guitar is quite normal and to be expected.
Also if you feel you're having to fight your guitar, try some lighter strings. I never use mediums on a dread. Some guitars like them, some don't depending on how the top responds. I use 12-53 on my D-18 and I hear little benefit in either tone or volume with a heavier gauge. Why make a guitar any harder to play than it needs be?

[Parlorman]

Larry said it

[vintage40s]

Originally Posted by AndrewG

... if you feel you're having to fight your guitar, try some lighter strings. I never use mediums on a dread. Some guitars like them, some don't depending on how the top responds. I use 12-53 on my D-18 and I hear little benefit in either tone or volume with a heavier gauge. Why make a guitar any harder to play than it needs be?

Martin recommends and supplies Medium strings on the D series. I have used Lights for decades and tried Mediums again on a whim last month. I went back to Lights after just a few days.

Martin also seems to set the D series action too high, at least for finger style. I went from a Hummingbird with adjustable rod and bridge, to a D-35 with so much more nut height that I immediately regretted the purchase. I had not heard of luthiers, nor have access to one in the service, so I took a file to the slots and sanded the bridge.

[AndrewG]

Originally Posted by vintage40s

Martin recommends and supplies Medium strings on the D series. I have used Lights for decades and tried Mediums again on a whim last month. I went back to Lights after just a few days.

Martin also seems to set the D series action too high, at least for finger style. I went from a Hummingbird with adjustable rod and bridge, to a D-35 with so much more nut height that I immediately regretted the purchase. I had not heard of luthiers, nor have access to one in the service, so I took a file to the slots and sanded the bridge.

Martin does NOT recommend medium gauges. They clearly state that gauges heavier than medium should not be used, and older models had this stamped on the interior back strip reinforcement as a caveat. Most factory guitars are supplied with an action deliberately high so that it can be adjusted to the player's taste. It's a lot easier to lower an action than raise it. You really need to take your guitar for a set up. Both you and it will be happier.

[asilker]

Folks this is good information. It's good to hear a chorus saying the same thing... Wisdom is vindicated by all her children and all that

Im playing mediums because to me they sound almost a little bit more compressed with a heavy right hand, like they even out in a pleasant way at high volume. Maybe switching back to lights is in my future.

I think I might play the guitar as is for the summertime, because our weather is becoming very wet and changing again. After a full dry/wet season cycle I'll get a full set up and be ready to go