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  #31  
Old 01-16-2021, 03:36 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Did somebody say "clutter?" I am the King of Clutter:



Seriously, when space is at a premium sometimes you have to get creative. I built a gobar deck and used metal pipe as the posts. Though it's not rigid it's a passable work table that can be disassembled or put under the workbench:

I've done planing on it and also as a surface to glue the plates together:


I've also used it to "drive the bus" - please, no comments on the porcelain fixture in the background. I freely admit to being "overly Appalachian" at times.


The problem was that it wasn't adjustable so I altered by adding threaded rods, but I can still "reverse engineer" it - though I am by NO means an engineer! (I stole the idea to put a bead board up above and found that nylon rods used in those "behind the wall" A/V cable kits serve as capable and budget friendly alternatives to Stewmac's pricey offerings.)



My point is that a big part of getting started is learning and taking time to understand the process. Think of it as an opportunity to become innovative - even if it's not always pretty!
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  #32  
Old 01-16-2021, 06:19 PM
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srick srick is offline
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Originally Posted by warfrat73 View Post
Ok, I just ordered a Stanley Bailey No. 5 from ebay (based on what I can find, I think it's a type 16 which would put it between 1933-1941).

It looks solid and not too rusty, but could use a cleaning. And I'm sure I'll need to set it up (but maybe I'll get lucky and find some old timer did a bang up job on it). Tax and shipping included, I paid a few bucks less than the brand new "Stanley Bailey" branded planes you can buy at Home Depot.

So that's sorted for now.
I just started looking at planes on eBay and wow... there are a lot of nice antique tools there, reasonably priced too!
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  #33  
Old 01-16-2021, 07:31 PM
warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Yeah, there were definitely some over priced ones, and some mislabeled ones, but if you do some digging there are some good deals.

I got this one for $60 including shipping, American made and at least reasonably well regarded... but either way, seems like it should be workable:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sta...YAAOSw79Vf8nzI

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  #34  
Old 01-16-2021, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by warfrat73 View Post
Yeah, there were definitely some over priced ones, and some mislabeled ones, but if you do some digging there are some good deals.

I got this one for $60 including shipping, American made and at least reasonably well regarded... but either way, seems like it should be workable:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sta...YAAOSw79Vf8nzI

Some cleanup, sharpening and a little wax - good to go
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  #35  
Old 01-16-2021, 08:19 PM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
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Not a bad business to get into when we can share ideas and problems with folks who respect craftsmanship and turn it into art...
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  #36  
Old 01-18-2021, 10:35 AM
warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Well, my old man bought me a nicer bandsaw than I would have bought myself (Rikon 10-3061). So that helps the bottom line, and will come in handy.

I'll pick up a couple additional sharpening accessories, and hopefully be good to at least start making some progress.

Might have enough left in the budget to buy a decent chisel or two.
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  #37  
Old 01-18-2021, 11:09 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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While it’s always fun to buy more tools, the hardware store chisels you have are probably adequate once properly sharpened.

As for sharpening, there are many methods that can be used, ranging from costs of $10 to $1k to get started. The 1000/6000 stone you have is sufficient if kept flat. You might want to add something with which to flatten it, such as another water stone or Diamond stone, and, maybe, a honing guide, the cheapest of which is under $20. It’s nice to be able to sharpen (hone) free hand but isn’t everyone’s choice.

Much like learning to play the guitar, where many spend much of their focus on “gear” rather than actually learning to play better, one can make tools, and the collection thereof, ones focus rather than learning to make guitars. Either is fine but it helps to be clear upon what one is focused.
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  #38  
Old 01-18-2021, 11:40 AM
warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Good advice, Charles.

I do tend to get carried away. I'm planning on buying a honing guide and a flattening stone (I guess I could use the old hack of taking it out to a flat bit of sidewalk), and a couple of inexpensive machinist rulers (Starrett is a bit too pricey)... and I do still need to find a bit of pipe for bending. And hardware to put together one of those molding/working boards.

If I stop there, I'll be within my originally stated tool budget, might even be able to sneak in a Two Cherries chisel.
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  #39  
Old 01-18-2021, 02:17 PM
Talldad Talldad is offline
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Great advice so far. I would definitely second good quality measuring tools. The first set square I had only had one job, it was only halfway through my first build that I discovered it sucked at being square. Again with rulers, not all mm are created equal.
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  #40  
Old 01-20-2021, 12:34 AM
capohk capohk is offline
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Just looking at my bench and thinking about what I use most:

The stewmac ruler which has zero in the centre is super useful for establishing the centre line.

The stewmac super scraper (not sure what they call it) is great - use that all the time.

My chisels are a collection of new and antique - the steel on old Sheffield made tools is excellent and they can be had for peanuts at flea markets.

A Japanese style pull saw is another tool I use all the time, but I don't have a band saw. Get the right kerf and it will double as a fret saw.

Stewmacs dragon rasps are excellent for shaping necks - I think they might have a newer model out now, but mine have been great.

Used pillar drills can be had for very reasonable $ - use it as your fret press too.

I don't have room for some big tools like planer jointer or thickness sander so I have ended up paying for a session at a local woodshop - I only use them for one or two jobs so it's not worth the investment so far. Maybe worth finding out where the nearest woodshop or pro luthier is to rent a bit of time? Maybe after COVID has buggered off...

Best of luck!
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  #41  
Old 01-21-2021, 01:11 PM
warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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My order from LMI showed up a couple of days ago and the back and sides arrives today.

Found that I don't seem to have a scraper anymore... I must have left a box behind in my last place in Milwaukee.

Ordered a honing guide, a decent square and rulers, a scraper, the hardware to build a Mega Mold-esque work board as Charles recommend. And still need to pick up some more clamps. Those little things sure add up.

Will put together a shooting board today or tomorrow.
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  #42  
Old 01-21-2021, 01:28 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warfrat73 View Post
... the hardware to build a Mega Mold-esque work board as Charles recommend.
Just for clarity, the work board I suggested as an option isn't really much like a Mega Mold.
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  #43  
Old 01-21-2021, 01:32 PM
warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Fair enough... having only seen them in pictures, and reading your comments on other thread, I know they at least have some similarities.

Mine will be a simple affair of a board with slots and adjustable dowels.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder

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  #44  
Old 01-21-2021, 01:48 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Originally Posted by warfrat73 View Post
Mine will be a simple affair of a board with slots and adjustable dowels.
That is what it is.

I'd recommend a 2 x 4 screwed to the bottom of it if you want to hold it in a vice. You can also embed a threaded insert into a hole at the centre of the sound hole. You can then use a bolt or threaded rod to hold down a 1 x 2 as a clamp to hold the top in place, or to hold a disk that fits in the sound hole to position the top.

Make a few short dowels to hold the assembled body during routing, gluing bindings, etc. Make the rest of the dowels a little shorter than the depth of the sides so that they don't interfere with the guitar back - if the body is face-down - or the top - if the body is face-up.

If you cut one end of the dowel square and drill in a drill press so that the hole for the threaded rod is perpendicular to the square end, the dowels will sit square to the board when tightened, giving you guitar sides that are square to the board.

The slots in the board can be used with rubber bands for clamping bindings to the body.
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  #45  
Old 01-23-2021, 06:02 PM
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Victory Pete Victory Pete is offline
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Welcome to the Rabbit Hole, I have been going deeper and deeper down all the time. I started with a minimal of tools and made do with what I had at the time until I could afford to buy some goodies from StewMac. It is never too late so if it takes 2 decades to get your dream workshop enjoy the ride. I made a Go Bar deck with Plywood and threaded rods. 4 to hold it together and many others to act as the Go Bars themselves. I have couplings on either ends of these rods with vinyl caps on them. It gives 1 1/2" adjustments. They work great. My pride and joy is my Sjobergs Elite 1500 workbench, it is my Altar. Although all these tools I have now certainly make my shop way more efficient and effective as it has ever been, it is amazing what you can do without it, using your imagination and ingenuity.












Last edited by Victory Pete; 01-23-2021 at 06:18 PM.
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