Crack in bridge - Should I be worried?

[Petyr]

I just bought a used Fender Malibu, about a year old. Paid approximately 150Euro ~ 180USD. Seemed to be in great condition until I discovered a crack in the bridge at home. I've noticed the seller, and he agreed to a refund or some money back in case I want to keep it.

Now I'm a bit worried. Is this fixable or should I return it? Not sure how much a luthier would charge to fix this up, any guesses?

Pictures of cracked bridge:
https://imgur.com/g8qrXAl
https://imgur.com/a/lFJZyqd
https://imgur.com/xHpOyI8

[fitness1]

I wouldn't worry too much about that - it's not really a crack (as in due to stress - the kind that comes between the bridge pins) It's more of a grain line that's been exposed. If it were mine, I'd ooze a good amount of super glue in there, sand it with some 320 grit or finer, and then 000 steel wool and call it a day.

[lowrider]

I would at least get some wood glue in there. Crazy Glue gel would be good to fix that. Mask the whole area and go gently. Crazy Glue gel isn't runny so you won't have to worry as much as with the regular stuff.

You don't want to be wiping down your guitar some day and peal half the bridge off!

Cool color guitar!

[charles Tauber]

The split is not an immediate structural concern. It is easy to repair for a professional for probably $50 or less.

The split should be properly closed by clamping while gluing to make an invisible permanent repair. If you squeeze CA glue in the split and don’t properly clamp it, doing so will prevent it from being invisible repaired subsequently.

[jdinco]

What Charles said....glue it and clamp it. Not a big deal.

[fitness1]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

. If you squeeze CA glue in the split and don’t properly clamp it, doing so will prevent it from being invisible repaired subsequently.

I based my suggestion on the fact that there are some huge grain lines already in the wood...don't think it would be very noticeable in the long run.

To the OP - when you are done, rub some boiled linseed or other similar oil into it and darken up the bridge - it will pretty much disappear no matter which way you go.

[guitar george]

To clamp the bridge after gluing you will need a deep-throat soundhole clamp, of some kind, such as this type available from StewMac.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by fitness1

I based my suggestion on the fact that there are some huge grain lines already in the wood...don't think it would be very noticeable in the long run.

I based my suggestion on the fact that the strongest repair will be wood-to-wood contact with an adhesive. Filling the void with glue won't provide the strongest repair. Might be strong enough. If not, subsequent repair will be compromised.

To the OP - when you are done, rub some boiled linseed or other similar oil into it and darken up the bridge - it will pretty much disappear no matter which way you go.

If the oil sinks into the wood enough, future gluing of it will be difficult if not impossible, at which point you would need to replace the bridge - $200+, likely vs. $50 - if done right the first time.

A large part of most repairpersons' work is fixing the fixes that novices have done.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by guitar george

To clamp the bridge after gluing you will need a deep-throat soundhole clamp, of some kind, such as this type available from StewMac.

Though MUCH easier to work on that way, I don't recommend cutting the guitar in half.

[John Arnold]

This grain separation was probably in the wood before the bridge was carved, and is not a structural issue. My main concern is having it catch on skin or clothing.

There is no need to buy an expensive deep throat clamp to do this. You could use an 8-32 or 10-24 screw through the pin hole along with a small wood block with a hole drilled in it. Easiest cleanup is wood glue....either hot hide glue or Titebond with a small amount of water to thin it. Alternately, use CA and hold it closed by hand for a minute to let it set up. For best penetration, I would use thin CA, but it requires great care to prevent it from running onto the top finish.

[fitness1]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

. Alternately, use CA and hold it closed by hand for a minute to let it set up. For best penetration, I would use thin CA, but it requires great care to prevent it from running onto the top finish.

Yes - that's what I was thinking - it's 180.00 guitar.....no way of telling how close the OP is to a tech to do it for him, and as you said, buying a clamp not really necessary.

[Petyr]

Wow! Thanks for all the answers and suggestions! I'll try to superglue it with a bit of pressure, then decide if it needs some sanding and linseed oil. The seller just shaved of 60USD because of the split, so it will probably turn out great for a pretty cheap guitar.

[lowrider]

Once you stabilize it, it probably won't ever give you a problem.

Those are cool guitars, now you need to get yourself into a surf band!