Hollow Body Guitar 🎸 Question

[Andromeda]

I may be in the market for a Hollow Body Guitar. Unfortunately I don't have a way to play before I buy.

My question is are they as easy to fret as a solid body electric?

[29er]

Generally, there should not be any reason a hollow body plays any differently than a solid body. It's all about set up. I own a Strat, and two fully hollow electrics (Casino and PRS SE hollow body) I have them all set up with the same string gauge, neck relief and action.

[Steve DeRosa]

Originally Posted by Andromeda

...My question is are they as easy to fret as a solid body electric?

I'll answer that with a qualified yes; as 29er says it's all about setup, and as long as it's done correctly - meaning nut, truss rod, block dressing the frets (IME most techs ignore this step - ask for it), bridge height/intonation, and pickup height/string balance - there's absolutely no reason they shouldn't; nevertheless, there are a couple of distinct differences that make them what they are...

First off, as an experienced player I'll assume you're buying a full-hollow for its intrinsic tonal characteristics - a woody warmth and more pronounced note definition with slightly less sustain, reminiscent of its archtop acoustic progenitors; that said, IME you'll likely need a heavier string to drive the top (again, much like an archtop guitar) to get some "wood" into your tone and keep it from sounding thin, especially if you settle on a short-scale instrument like a Byrdland (23.5") or Gretsch (24.5 - 24.6" depending on model/year). While I use flatwound 13's on my Carlo Robelli ES-5 knockoff and 12's on my Godin CW II and Gretsch Double Annie, my White Falcon sounds/plays best with flatwound 10's - moral of the story being that while general rules give you a good starting point (12's were OEM on the Falcon in the '60s, 11's today), the guitar has a way of telling you what it likes - more so than with a flattop, and second only to a carved acoustic archtop in this department...

Given your signature you're clearly also aware that, in today's market, inexpensive doesn't necessarily equate with "cheap," and there are several instruments that provide fully professional tone/playability/QC at Working Joe/Jane prices; I'll also assume that you've long since cultivated the ability to weed out the duds from the winners and, unlike a typical "offshore" (Pac-Rim or MIM) bolt-neck solidbody (which can be tweaked by a semi-skilled amateur) proper neck geometry is a must from the get-go - and a major expense to remedy if it isn't - so you'll need to take this into account. Unfortunately this is one area where many low-end Pac-Rim hollowbodies fall short: while you can get a good one (IME Ibanez owns this segment of the market, hands down), as an experienced player I'd be looking at something in the $800-1200 bracket as a first instrument - not exactly cheap, but as a rule hollowbodies tend to be more expensive/labor-intensive to build correctly...

In addition to the Godin CW II I mentioned above - a single-cut, dual P-90 hollow that handles (and weighs - mine is just a tick over five pounds) like a Seagull mini jumbo - I'd also put the Korean-made Gretsch 5400-Series Electromatics at the top of your short list if you're buying sight unseen/unheard (as I did with mine in both cases - and wouldn't hesitate to do so again). While I'll freely admit to a lifelong soft spot for Gretsch (I've been playing them since 1964, and my grandparents lived three blocks from the old Brooklyn factory at 60 Broadway), a number of other very satisfied fellow AGF'ers can vouch for the fact that they really are that. good.: all of the historic models - White Falcon (single- and double-cut), Viking, Country Gent, 6120/Nashville (single- and double-cut), Double Anniversary, "Nesmith" 12-string - as well as the more recent Brian Setzer are/were represented in a more accessible (price-wise) form, and give up far less than you might think to their Japanese-built Professional Series stablemates in terms of hardware/fit-&-finish (and nothing in the way of tone or playability). I'll be the first to admit that, unlike a Gibson or Fender, they're not plug-&-play guitars and not for everybody - there's a definite formula (in terms of both technique and setup) to getting the best out of them - but if you were raised on the iconic tones of Messrs. Cochran, Eddy, Harrison, Jones, Stills, Young, Setzer et al., nothing else sounds like a Gretsch but a Gretsch...

Also off the beaten tonal/cosmetic path are a few of the recent offerings in the Guild Newark St. lineup, based on some of their Hoboken-era hollowbodies and available in both thinline (T-50, Starfire III) and full-depth (X-175B/Manhattan Special, X-350) with a variety of pickup configurations, as well as a 17" acoustic archtop (A-150) with a suspended DeArmond "Redhead" pickup, that looks like it could have played the 1959 New Year's Eve "Rat Pack" show at the Sands; similar in quality to the Gretsch E-Matic hollows but more expensive model-for-model, they're perhaps best described as a "new-stalgia" line - paying tribute to their forebears while not as historically accurate as they could (or IMO should) be...

You may have noticed that I've left Epiphone, D'Angelico, and Eastman off the list; I've played all three and, as the owner of a MIC Ultra 339, I would strongly advise against buying any Epi without a hands-on assessment as I've found their quality to be highly variable (shame, because their '90s/early-2K's MIK models were at the top of the step-up/intermediate food chain). As to the latter two, IME there's nothing that D'A offers (other than a now-meaningless name) that other Pac-Rim makers don't - and for less money - and while Eastman's QC is unquestionably first-rate, IMO their real strength in this price range is their well-respected 300/400-Series semis (priced comparably to the Guild Starfire IV/V/VI)...

Good luck...

[Andromeda]

Originally Posted by Steve DeRosa

I'll answer that with a qualified yes; as 29er says it's all about setup, and as long as it's done correctly - meaning nut, truss rod, block dressing the frets (IME most techs ignore this step - ask for it), bridge height/intonation, and pickup height/string balance - there's absolutely no reason they shouldn't; nevertheless, there are a couple of distinct differences that make them what they are...

First off, as an experienced player I'll assume you're buying a full-hollow for its intrinsic tonal characteristics - a woody warmth and more pronounced note definition with slightly less sustain, reminiscent of its archtop acoustic progenitors; that said, IME you'll likely need a heavier string to drive the top (again, much like an archtop guitar) to get some "wood" into your tone and keep it from sounding thin, especially if you settle on a short-scale instrument like a Byrdland (23.5") or Gretsch (24.5 - 24.6" depending on model/year). While I use flatwound 13's on my Carlo Robelli ES-5 knockoff and 12's on my Godin CW II and Gretsch Double Annie, my White Falcon sounds/plays best with flatwound 10's - moral of the story being that while general rules give you a good starting point (12's were OEM on the Falcon in the '60s, 11's today), the guitar has a way of telling you what it likes - more so than with a flattop, and second only to a carved acoustic archtop in this department...

Given your signature you're clearly also aware that, in today's market, inexpensive doesn't necessarily equate with "cheap," and there are several instruments that provide fully professional tone/playability/QC at Working Joe/Jane prices; I'll also assume that you've long since cultivated the ability to weed out the duds from the winners and, unlike a typical "offshore" (Pac-Rim or MIM) bolt-neck solidbody (which can be tweaked by a semi-skilled amateur) proper neck geometry is a must from the get-go - and a major expense to remedy if it isn't - so you'll need to take this into account. Unfortunately this is one area where many low-end Pac-Rim hollowbodies fall short: while you can get a good one (IME Ibanez owns this segment of the market, hands down), as an experienced player I'd be looking at something in the $800-1200 bracket as a first instrument - not exactly cheap, but as a rule hollowbodies tend to be more expensive/labor-intensive to build correctly...

In addition to the Godin CW II I mentioned above - a single-cut, dual P-90 hollow that handles (and weighs - mine is just a tick over five pounds) like a Seagull mini jumbo - I'd also put the Korean-made Gretsch 5400-Series Electromatics at the top of your short list if you're buying sight unseen/unheard (as I did with mine in both cases - and wouldn't hesitate to do so again). While I'll freely admit to a lifelong soft spot for Gretsch (I've been playing them since 1964, and my grandparents lived three blocks from the old Brooklyn factory at 60 Broadway), a number of other very satisfied fellow AGF'ers can vouch for the fact that they really are that. good.: all of the historic models - White Falcon (single- and double-cut), Viking, Country Gent, 6120/Nashville (single- and double-cut), Double Anniversary, "Nesmith" 12-string - as well as the more recent Brian Setzer are/were represented in a more accessible (price-wise) form, and give up far less than you might think to their Japanese-built Professional Series stablemates in terms of hardware/fit-&-finish (and nothing in the way of tone or playability). I'll be the first to admit that, unlike a Gibson or Fender, they're not plug-&-play guitars and not for everybody - there's a definite formula (in terms of both technique and setup) to getting the best out of them - but if you were raised on the iconic tones of Messrs. Cochran, Eddy, Harrison, Jones, Stills, Young, Setzer et al., nothing else sounds like a Gretsch but a Gretsch...

Also off the beaten tonal/cosmetic path are a few of the recent offerings in the Guild Newark St. lineup, based on some of their Hoboken-era hollowbodies and available in both thinline (T-50, Starfire III) and full-depth (X-175B/Manhattan Special, X-350) with a variety of pickup configurations, as well as a 17" acoustic archtop (A-150) with a suspended DeArmond "Redhead" pickup, that looks like it could have played the 1959 New Year's Eve "Rat Pack" show at the Sands; similar in quality to the Gretsch E-Matic hollows but more expensive model-for-model, they're perhaps best describes as a "new-stalgia" line - paying tribute to their forebears while not as historically accurate as they could (or IMO should) be...

You may have noticed that I've left Epiphone, D'Angelico, and Eastman off the list; I've played all three and, as the owner of a MIC Ultra 339, I would strongly advise against buying any Epi without a hands-on assessment as I've found their quality to be highly variable (shame, because their '90s/early-2K's MIK models were at the top of the step-up/intermediate food chain). As to the latter two, IME there's nothing that D'A offers (other than a now-meaningless name) that other Pac-Rim makers don't - and for less money - and while Eastman's QC is unquestionably first-rate, IMO their real strength in this price range is their well-respected 300/400-Series semis (priced comparably to the Guild Starfire IV/V/VI)...

Good luck...

Thank you so much for your very detailed response! I greatly appreciate it!

[Golffishny]

I noticed a PRS SE Hollowbody Standard listed on craigslist Rochester/Penfield on the 30th. Not far from you. I have no personal knowledge of the seller or the item. Good luck.

[BoneDigger]

I would not say that a Hollowbody is any harder to play or fret. Now, depending on the body size, it may be harder to hold.

I would not disqualify Epiphone guitars from consideration. I own several and the quality has improved significantly in recent years. The Casino is a great Hollowbody with P90 pickups. The new Inspired by Gibson Epiphone ES series is also getting good reviews.

I am also a fan of Gretsch guitars. Their Hollowbody Electromatic series is very good.

[rmp]

2 of the biggest things for consideration is the size, width and dept, and what sort of bridge

a traditional "jazz box" would be something like a 17" width with a 4" body depth and a floating "wood" bridge some only have one pickup up by the neck. The action should be set able very close to an electric. The only difference would be what kind of string would you shoot for.

Flatwounds are usually the go to for something like what is described above. Maybe a bit heavier gauge, like 11s if you're used to 10 gauge on your electrics

I had an Epiphone Emperor Regent that I sold off last year, and even though I didn't play it a lot, I kind of regret selling it. it was a great player, and had "that" sound. such is life.. they've been discontinued for over 10 years now

There's also the Broadway, (had one of those too.) Nice entry level jazz boxes.

Eastman makes some nice ones too as does D'Angelico.

if you're on the other hand looking for something like a Gretsch Electromatic, or a Epi Casino, then you can set them up however you want

I have a Gretsch 5422TG and I love the darned thing. I have 10 gague XLs on there and it's a blast to play.

it has a pinned rosewood base bridge (meaning it doesn't move), but the bridge itself metal with standard saddles and adjustment fittings.

[RickRS]

Originally Posted by Andromeda

.
My question is are they as easy to fret as a solid body electric?

Certainly! If it is set up for an electric guitar player. Which is expected.
I've A D'Angelico Excel SS (semi hollow with full tail piece). Out of the box, it was, and still is, an amazing slick action, the best of all my electrics. And I've got a Gretsch GT5420 (full hollow body), and it's as good as my other solid bodies.

If you don't need a high action for the acoustic volume, you can set any electric, solid or hollow, for a low action expected of an electric guitar.

[Dru Edwards]

Hi Bill, as mentioned it should be the same to fret as any other electric assuming setup and neck thickness preference. Just watch out for the body sizes as some hollow bodies can be big.

Also, you may want to look into semi-hollow bodies as well.

[dreamingOM]

It may be a huge adjustment if you're used to playing solid body electric guitars..

but almost zero adjustment if you're used to playing acoustic guitars..

there's alot of variables affecting the feel of a hollowbody guitar.. the scale length matters too in terms of feel (longer = stiffer, shorter = slinkier)..

I made the switch from electric to fully hollow guitars not too long ago.. hollowbodies give me the tones Im missing with solid body.. besides, I can practice unplugged too.

from this point on, I'm never buying a solid body guitar again.. I'm just sold on hollowbodies..

Untitled by D Y, on Flickr

Untitled by D Y, on Flickr

[Andromeda]

Originally Posted by BoneDigger

I would not say that a Hollowbody is any harder to play or fret. Now, depending on the body size, it may be harder to hold.

I would not disqualify Epiphone guitars from consideration. I own several and the quality has improved significantly in recent years. The Casino is a great Hollowbody with P90 pickups. The new Inspired by Gibson Epiphone ES series is also getting good reviews.

I am also a fan of Gretsch guitars. Their Hollowbody Electromatic series is very good.

Actually Epiphone Casino and ES series are the ones I'm considering.

[Andromeda]

Originally Posted by dreamingOM

It may be a huge adjustment if you're used to playing solid body electric guitars..

but almost zero adjustment if you're used to playing acoustic guitars..

there's alot of variables affecting the feel of a hollowbody guitar.. the scale length matters too in terms of feel (longer = stiffer, shorter = slinkier)..

I made the switch from electric to fully hollow guitars not too long ago.. hollowbodies give me the tones Im missing with solid body.. besides, I can practice unplugged too.

from this point on, I'm never buying a solid body guitar again.. I'm just sold on hollowbodies..

Untitled by D Y, on Flickr

Untitled by D Y, on Flickr

I'm pretty much been an acoustic only type of player.

[dreamingOM]

Originally Posted by Andromeda

I'm pretty much been an acoustic only type of player.

A hollowbody like a Gretsch or Gibson/Epiphone ES models would suit you.. but there's a lot to choose from.

Depends on what you want.. do you want a Beatles-like Epiphone Casino? or more into BB king blues type? then that would be a 335 type guitar..

The newer Epiphone Inspired by Gibson are pretty good. the Casinos and ES-335 models particularly have stepped up in quality. These guitars may need a bit of set up.

try to go used first.. if this is your first forray into electric guitars, then Id suggest something easier on the wallet in case you decide you dont like the guitar.

[rmp]

Originally Posted by Andromeda

Actually Epiphone Casino and ES series are the ones I'm considering.

Casino's are hollow body's

ES styles (335/339) are semi-hollows, there's a solid block in the mid interior of the body.

You may know this already but just thought to mention it is a major distinction to be made between those two models

Hollow bodys played at high volume are prone to feed back.

Semi hollows have a much higher threshold regarding that particular issue.

[GoPappy]

That is a beautiful collection! Something tells me you like P90 pickups.

Originally Posted by dreamingOM

It may be a huge adjustment if you're used to playing solid body electric guitars..

but almost zero adjustment if you're used to playing acoustic guitars..

there's alot of variables affecting the feel of a hollowbody guitar.. the scale length matters too in terms of feel (longer = stiffer, shorter = slinkier)..

I made the switch from electric to fully hollow guitars not too long ago.. hollowbodies give me the tones Im missing with solid body.. besides, I can practice unplugged too.

from this point on, I'm never buying a solid body guitar again.. I'm just sold on hollowbodies..

Untitled by D Y, on Flickr

Untitled by D Y, on Flickr