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#16
02-10-2015, 07:51 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions and words of encouragement guys.
I'll try bleaching the stain from the side that would face internally first. It is much darker there. If that doesn't help, i'll leave the other side alone and try my hand at a shade top for the first time. Learning opportunities... 
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#17
02-10-2015, 09:44 PM
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 I had this same color (greenish ) stain in a neck I did . Not the knot ...lol , but the line next to it . Have no idea what or where it came from but was identical to yours . I tried bleaching (only the stain ) and it lighted and got rid of the "greenness" but left the dark spot . Didn't try the acid , but I was OK with the spot , as the neck was not flawless ...and really it suited the guitar in my opinion. I call it character. Good luck and keep us posted on your results. It'd be nice to find a solution in case I run into this again !
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#18
02-10-2015, 10:37 PM
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Just a bit more info on Oxalic acid, sometimes it is sold as a "rust and stain remover" it come in a crystal or powder form not a liquid and you mix it in water. You may have to look for rust or stain removers then read the fine print to see if it is oxalic acid.
__________________
Divots in my fingers Music in my head I wonder what would be If I chose car racing instead. Jim Schofield
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#19
02-10-2015, 11:48 PM
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That looks a lot like "blue stain" which is due to a fungus if the wood is kept damp for too long after the tree is felled. Given the provenance of your wood, it wouldn't surprise me. I've never been able to get rid of blue stain. The "standard" fixes are bleaches, but I've not had much success with them. Try a Google search on blue stain removal from wood and see if any permanent fixes get thrown up.
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#20
02-11-2015, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
I don't think there is any cure. The cause of the infection is not getting a log split and sawn and stickered fast enough. It mainly will affect sap wood, which is usually closest to the center line as with your top. If there is any way to deal with it, John Arnold would know. He will likely notice your question, so wait for him to comment. For whatever consolation it gives, your supplier ought to replace the top.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon Last edited by Howard Klepper; 02-11-2015 at 01:08 AM.
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#21
02-11-2015, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Makes more sense than mine hypothesis.
__________________
Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240
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#24
02-11-2015, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Sometimes it's best to "know when to fold 'em." Basically everybody I know who practices this insane craft has had to start over from time to time. . .
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Cheers, Frank Ford
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#25
02-11-2015, 07:50 PM
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Blue stain is the enemy of tonewood cutters....especially when it comes to spruce or maple. It is a fungus that grows in the sapwood, primarily in the summer months. Though it is normally considered undesirable aesthetically, it does not affect the structure or sound of the wood.
I just heard about a chemical that removes blue stain, but I have not tried it yet. The Hampton brothers have tested it, and it seems promising. The chemistry is hydrogen peroxide. http://www.baquacil.com/products/oxidizers.aspx You do not want to get this stuff on your hands!
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#27
02-11-2015, 09:25 PM
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This might be reaching but i have heard of techs air brushing repairs so it does not show. Would that be an option
__________________
David Webber Round-Body Furch D32-LM MJ Franks Lagacy OM Rainsong H-WS1000N2T Stonebridge OM33-SR DB Stonebridge D22-SRA Tacoma Papoose Voyage Air VAD-2 1980 Fender Strat A few Partscaster Strats MIC 60s Classic Vib Strat
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