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New build question? Need help with specs please
Having a custom OM with Florentine build from a local luthier. Some Specs are up in the air and would love some advice from anyone who cares to chime in. Advice is welcome:
Planned on specs: Brazilian rosewood double sides with white limba. Brazilian back. Stabilized maple rosette And endgraft (blue/purple/green mix) Brazilian rosewood board Brazilian rosewood bridge Ebony binding Black white black purfling Spanish cedar kerfing Mahogany support blocks with extended neck block. Up in the air: Adirondack or redwood top Laminated curly maple neck with purple heart or Paduk accent stripes vs mahogany neck Mahogany vs spruce bracing Looking forward to the process, but waffling in my decisions. Thanks in advance. Rapdog |
#2
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Here's my advice: ask your guitar builder.
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#3
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Top choice will be the most important choice with regard to tone. What kind of sound are you looking to achieve? I tend to go with mahogany necks because I like the light weight. Although maple is beautiful as a neck wood, it is heavier.
From an aesthetic standpoint, I like the look of spruce with rosewood. I don’t like the look of darkish woods like redwood with Brazilian, especially with dark ebony binding. I frankly think spruce is very hard to beat on pretty much every front, and Adi is probably my favorite. Personal opinion, of course.
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Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#4
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I expected you would be asking about body size, scale length, nut width and that sort of thing. Many of your advice you asked about are really more about preferences on appearance. How do we know what you find attractive? We can only guess.
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The Bard Rocks Fay OM Sinker Redwood/Tiger Myrtle Sexauer L00 Adk/Magnolia For Sale Hatcher Jumbo Bearclaw/"Bacon" Padauk Goodall Jumbo POC/flamed Mahogany Appollonio 12 POC/Myrtle MJ Franks Resonator, all Australian Blackwood Goodman J45 Lutz/fiddleback Mahogany Blackbird "Lucky 13" - carbon fiber '31 National Duolian + many other stringed instruments. |
#5
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My stuff...
I see you are brand new here. Welcome! You have TONS OF IDEAS to check out right here in the many build threads!!! Do some serious reading right here in the Custom Shop section. I bet you will find a LOT to consider.
May I suggest: SoundPort, Manzer Wedge, comfort bevels, low profile neck heel, rollled Fretboard edges, bullnose all edges on the box, special needs/wants on the neck carve and scale, and anything else that will make playing more comfortable for you. You are getting a custom. Go for the gusto!!! Have fun Paul
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3 John Kinnaird SS 12c CUSTOMS: Big Maple/Cedar Dread Jumbo Spanish Cedar/WRC Jumbo OLD Brazilian RW/WRC R.T 2 12c sinker RW/Claro 96 422ce bought new! 96 LKSM 12 552ce 12x12 J. Stepick Bari Weissy WRC/Walnut More Last edited by Guitars44me; 03-04-2020 at 10:25 AM. |
#6
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Quote:
runamuck Here's my advice: ask your guitar builder. +1 to what he said ^ IMO, choosing the right top to match your string attack is more important than any other choice of options. 2nd and nearly equal to that is understanding and having the skill to know how to voice that finite top to respond appropriately to your unique playing style. I'm not a fan of laminated necks, for various reasons that I won't get into. "Mahogany vs spruce bracing" For the top, back or both??? I've never heard of nor would I advise using mahogany bracing for the top. |
#7
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The top wood is one of the top one or two choices in specs (along with body shape).
You may want to decide what type of sound you want then decide those two things first, then specify all the other stuff. If it's a display piece then proceed. If it's for playing then there's a lot of very specific spec's there about the much less important stuff, IMO.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#8
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I suggest you focus on, and communicate to your builder, the tone and playability you want/need.
Aesthetics is a choice; with builder determine what is your choice, what is the builder's choice, and what is a joint effort. Assuming you trust that the builder can deliver what you want for tone, playability, aesthetics, and longevity; let the builder decide on materials, design details, and methods. So: - I'd suggest the top wood should be selected by the builder based on your tone/playability needs. - I'd suggest the bracing wood is determined/selected by your builder - I'd suggest the neck wood and design be first 'constrained/limited' by the builder to ensure your choices don't compromise playability. Your choice should be limited to only aesthetic options that the builder believes are appropriate based on other parameters.
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Chuck 2012 Carruth 12-fret 000 in Pernambuco and Adi 2010 Poling Sierra in Cuban Mahogany and Lutz 2015 Posch 13-fret 00 in Indian Rosewood and Adi Last edited by ChuckS; 03-04-2020 at 08:53 AM. |
#9
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Yes, as others have said here, speak with the luthier building your guitar. I have been fortunate enough to have gone through two custom builds and both times, the people building the guitars have helped me get the tone and playability that I was seeking by having some in-depth conversations with them. They are in the best position to know what options and wood choices yield what results.
Enjoy the process! Best, Jayne |
#10
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Red spruce, mahogany neck, spruce bracing for the top. There ya go. Traditional for a reason.
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Hatcher Woodsman, Collings 0002H, Stella Grand Concert |
#11
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Thank you everybody for all your feedback. I will definitely have the conversations with the builder regarding what tone I am searching for, it thought I would get some opinions from y’all regarding your experience.
As for McKnights response spruce racing for the top only. Mahogany vs spruce for the back. I know that to can be a can of worrms, but your laminated neck preference interests me if you ever care to share. |
#12
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Quote:
Have fun...I would also put in my vote for the mahogany neck, stiff, but light.
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PS. I love guitars! |
#13
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To those that say, "talk to your builder," not all builders have a strong opinion about wood choices. The honest ones will also admit that they don't have 100% control over the final outcome. I agree that the conversation should start there, but it doesn't always end there, in my experience. Hence, the question from the OP.
Of course, nothing replaces the personal experience of trying a bunch of different guitars with those woods to get a general sense of what they do/sound like.
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Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#14
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Quote:
I'd probably opt for the flamed Maple with Purpleheart because it would best match the rosette. (And I'd probably want flamed Maple binding then as well, especially if it's a very dark set of BRW sides.) But as has been pointed out, this will have a minor effect on tone and a noticeable effect on weight so that's something you need to consider. I'd leave the choice of bracing material up to your luthier because they (should) know what works best for their designs. I think most builders opt for stiffer braces (aka Spruce), but it all depends on their approach to the build. |