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  #16  
Old 02-27-2021, 08:58 AM
davidd davidd is online now
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I put 11-52's on my Pono GA and love it... A little less volume and bass but I'm just playing it on my sofa so it's no big deal. I never quite get this "volume" thing for noodling around the house.
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  #17  
Old 02-27-2021, 08:58 AM
Dracorex0 Dracorex0 is offline
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Default Fingerstyle: putting .10s on a grand auditorium, yeah or nay?

Wow guys great suggestions, thanks! I’ve been looking into silk and steel strings, but they just sound a little too mellow for my liking. 11s it is [emoji846]

Last edited by Dracorex0; 02-27-2021 at 09:10 AM.
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2021, 08:59 AM
Dracorex0 Dracorex0 is offline
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And for sure checking my setup first
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2021, 09:01 AM
Dracorex0 Dracorex0 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2558 View Post
If you intend to only play with/for yourself go for it. If otherwise, unless you are plugged into an amp or PA, it will be noticeably more quiet. I use 11's which is a nice compromise, and I can play plugged in if I need more volume.


Yes, I usually play with myself [emoji854]
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2021, 09:06 AM
Dracorex0 Dracorex0 is offline
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Default Fingerstyle: putting .10s on a grand auditorium, yeah or nay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmoretti49 View Post
Try GHS Thin core strings. They are low tension strings that sound good. Try 11's.


WOW bro I’m blown away by the demo on youtube. So you’re telling me these strings are easier on the fingers, AND warmer? [emoji44] And they don’t sound dull like silk & steel! They almost sound in between regular phosphor bronze and silk & steel. Awesome!
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  #21  
Old 02-27-2021, 09:11 AM
Dru Edwards Dru Edwards is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrider View Post
First I would make sure that your guitar is set up properly. If it is, then try 11's. You won't find as much of a tone loss as with 10's.

I started playing as PT for my surgically repaired left hand. I started with 10's because I didn't care how it sounded, I just wanted to strengthen my hand. As I got stronger and got some chops, I moved to 11's and it was a huge improvement in sound but not much harder to play.

Then I moved to 12's and got a much fuller tone than the 10's I had started with, and again, it took more strength but by now I had the strength I needed.
+1. I'd try 11s before going to 10s.
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  #22  
Old 02-27-2021, 09:29 AM
Earl49 Earl49 is offline
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Try tuning your current 12's down a half step to Eb first. That should mimic the overall tension of the next lightest gauge, and if you are playing alone you don't have to match pitches with anyone. If that still isn't enough then drop to 11's. I would not go to 10's on a steel string acoustic guitar. My only electric (Taylor T5) is strung with 12's to better mimic the feel of my acoustics for practicing. Everyone's hands are different though.
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  #23  
Old 02-27-2021, 09:33 AM
Deliberate1 Deliberate1 is online now
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On the recommendation of an AGF member, and out of curiosity, I bought a set of these for my Huss and Dalton 000 Custom SP when it first came into my hands last year.
https://www.stringsbymail.com/thomas...0-41-3723.html. They are 10-42.
They are wonderful strings on this guitar. Sweet, balanced, focused and resonant in the treble and remarkably sonorous in the bass. The voice signature is vaguely "classical." Volume-wise, they do give up a bit from heavier gauge strings, but not much, and you will not be troubled by it on your couch, nor am I. My teacher played the guitar and was quite surprised how loud they are. And, of course, they are noticeably easier to play, especially for my fingers which are relatively new to the guitar, and even newer to finger style which I have started to study. Easier to play barre chords as well.
My other go-to string is the 12-54 DR Sunbeams which are a wonderful alternative if you decide on a "heavier" string. They are reportedly easier to play than similar gauged strings, being "low tension." I use these on all my other guitars with great success. They are, perhaps, 15-20% "stiffer" to the touch than the Thomastik, but still very playable for me, with just two years of experience.
The Thomastik were not well-suited to the Froggy Bottom H12, which is roughly a 000 size guitar. They just would not drive the top. It was an expensive experiment ($23 +/-), but it was worth it to reinforce how great they are on my Huss and Dalton. That said, the action on that guitar is already low and I do get some buzzing with the Thomastik strings. A set up is in order, and will make the combination perfect.
Hope this helps.
David

Last edited by Deliberate1; 02-27-2021 at 05:03 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2021, 10:36 AM
RRuskin RRuskin is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracorex0 View Post
Obviously I won’t be needing alot of volume. I mostly play 12s right now. I heard 10’s are alot easier on the fingers. Should I give it a go or is it a waste of time?
Try it and see if you like how they feel. If you do, have the guitar set up specifically for your new gauge selection. It will make a significant difference to the good.
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2021, 10:41 AM
tbirdman tbirdman is offline
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Rather than drop to 10s why not try low tension strings at 12 and 11 gauge.

Some possible ones are:

GHS thin cores
Newtone Heritage
Pyramid
Thomastek Infeld.

I can vouch for the Newtones and Thomastek personably.
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2021, 10:48 AM
roylor4 roylor4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrider View Post
First I would make sure that your guitar is set up properly. If it is, then try 11's. You won't find as much of a tone loss as with 10's.

I started playing as PT for my surgically repaired left hand. I started with 10's because I didn't care how it sounded, I just wanted to strengthen my hand. As I got stronger and got some chops, I moved to 11's and it was a huge improvement in sound but not much harder to play.

Then I moved to 12's and got a much fuller tone than the 10's I had started with, and again, it took more strength but by now I had the strength I needed.
+1 - try 11's first. I'm a intermediate player and been gigging for years. I can play 12's but choose 11's because I play amplified and there is no difference in tone through a PA playing 11's vs something larger. I can play longer & practice longer without fatigue.

Going straight from 12's to 10's, you will be more likely to have to change the relief in the neck to avoid buzzing. String provide tension to maintain neck curve - drastically dropping the tension may make a sizable difference in neck relief.

So - try 11's. Strings ain't permanent. You can always go to 10's next if you want....
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2021, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracorex0 View Post
Obviously I won’t be needing alot of volume. I mostly play 12s right now. I heard 10’s are alot easier on the fingers. Should I give it a go or is it a waste of time?
I love 12s. it’s my preference for size.
Thomastic plectrum 12s are easier on the fingers.
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  #28  
Old 02-27-2021, 11:00 AM
wguitar wguitar is offline
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I would suggest trying DR Sunbeam 11's which play easier due to having a round core.
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  #29  
Old 02-27-2021, 11:13 AM
donlyn donlyn is offline
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Fingerstyle: putting .10s on a grand auditorium, yeah or nay?


First off, my take on .010's is don't do it. I would just tune down and use a capo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracorex0 View Post
It’s funny, I don’t feel like I actually need to go there right now but I’m a little scared I’ll reach a stage where my fingers will need an easier time and then I’ll have to change stuff around later on which sounds worse. I’d rather get my shizz together now so I don’t have to worry about it [emoji18]
Dracorex0,

This is my tale, and was not part of a plan, so here's something to think about rather than a suggestion.

I have mostly been playing large body acoustics, often with Medium gauge strings, say .013 -.056, or some hybrid of that, for example a Bluegrass gauge. I am now in my 74th year on spaceship earth, and have revised that formula. A few years ago I was having some left (fretting) hand issues, so I went out and got a short scale guitar, my Taylor 412e-R Grand Concert. It was strung with Elixir PB HD Light gauge, which is .013 - .053, essentially using Medium trebles with Light gauge bass strings.

Well that worked out better than I expected, to the point of that guitar is a bit of a go-to for me. I still tune my six strings to standard, including both my Grand Concerts (the other one is standard scale, and often in DADGAD), both -J-200s, and my Grand Orchestra. The body size of the large guitars doesn't need Medium strings to produce great bass. The HD Lights do just fine.

So here's my take-away. I had gotten so used to the .013 Mediums that I had no trouble with the Medium trebles, and the Light gauge bass string tensions made it a lot easier on my fretting hand. I fingerpick all my instruments using my nails as picks. And I can still bend with this gauge with any fingers and strings, including my pinkie on the .013. The HD Light gauge is .013, .017, .025, .032, .042, and .053.

Turns out a bonus is that this gauge helps with a well-balanced sound, which also helps with the fingerpicking results.

And in conclusion, I figure all those years with Medium gauge may have built up a lot of strength in my fretting hand. While I do tend to avoid a lot of barre chords now, I still need the second fret F# minor and B minor chords, but I have learned work-arounds for most other barre chords, especially on 12 string (For over 20 years I have tuned mine to D#). And that HD gauge combined with the short scale guitar allowed me to 'play through' it all and still keep the sounds I'm used to.

Don
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Last edited by donlyn; 02-27-2021 at 04:22 PM.
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  #30  
Old 02-27-2021, 12:14 PM
buddyhu buddyhu is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdman View Post
Rather than drop to 10s why not try low tension strings at 12 and 11 gauge.

Some possible ones are:

GHS thin cores
Newtone Heritage
Pyramid
Thomastek Infeld.

I can vouch for the Newtones and Thomastek personably.
I second this approach.

My faves are Straight Up Strings. https://straightupstrings.com/
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