#16
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Quote:
Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#17
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Are you sure this is safe to try on the fingerboard?
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#18
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Being shown how to do something vee the Internet is not the same as being shown in person, so no guarantees are expressed or implied, I merely show what we in the trade do to fix said problems.
Many people believe they can do what we do every day by reading a line in a paragraph written by someone they do not know, they may or may not be able to do it. If the job is beyond your comfort zone, then pay someone to do it, knowing it’s not a big job Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#19
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I am just asking for advice here. I never claim to be able to replace professionals that do this stuff every day for a living. If it's out of my comfort zone then I will for sure take it to my tech.
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#20
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The guitar side had to be finish-repaired. |
#21
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So the wet towel touches the wood and the heated metal never actually does, right? How long (aprox) do I hold it on the spot?
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#22
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I use a small piece of folded paper towel that just covers the dented area. Saturate the towel with water. Apply hot soldering gun's flat tip to the towel. Remove heat before all water steams away. Repeat until dent "grows" back to flush (or close to it).
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#23
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I think only something with a small pen-like tip would work here. Something that would fit in the small indented grooves. Maybe the edge or tip of a knife or heat up the tip of a screwdriver?
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#24
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Non-compressed wood will not be raised. Practice on some scraps until you know what result to expect.
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#25
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layman's opinion
I think OP would be well served to get a repair technician to address the fretboard dents. The job is not invasive, but I think the place to learn a new skill is probably not on a new instrument. There's any number of tools the repair person will have that we laypersons don't, and they make for a reliable and prompt repair. Might be a good time to get the frets leveled and adjusted, too, but that's an example of specification creep.
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#26
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#27
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On the desert planet of Arrakis, we'd call that "worm sign".
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#28
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I get that it's a drag, but if you like how the guitar sounds and plays, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're worried about resale value,... then maybe.
Remember marks on a guitar are "character," when selling, and "damage," when buying. |
#29
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Thought I answered it more than adequately, even supplied photos so mis-interpretation from my written response could be eliminated.
Any exposed - raw wood that has taken an impact and subsequently compressed the wood, can be steamed to make it better, be that a fretboard / neck / or body, the only issue that remains from said process is sometimes the wood is bruised from the impact, being a darkwood like rosewood it would be extremely hard to see that bruising Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#30
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Rule #6 after buying a new guitar: Never take a macro-lens to your guitar or look inside. You'll just bother yourself. Just play the guitar and enjoy it. I assume you purchased a B-stock guitar because of the great deal you received. Whether new or not, B-stock almost always means scratch-and-dent somewhere.
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