#16
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The clamp would create a stop to avoid going to far and would also allow for reducing one end more than the other if that were necessary. Not sure that it is in my case but its an option if needed. |
#17
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To make sure the bottom of my saddles are perfectly flat I use a straight edge and sight them up to a light, any gaps will be obvious. I do the same for a nut in its slot.
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#18
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If you take it down from the top, you don't have to worry about keeping the bottom flat, plus you can adjust action on each string individually.
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#19
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neck relief and action?
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The action might change a minute bit, but never adjust the truss rod trying to lower or raise the action. Bad idea. It's all done at the saddle. As long as the bottom of the saddle is sanded smooth and flat it shouldn't bother anything. Ron |
#20
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~Bob~ |
#21
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Not for the bottom of the saddle. I don't think that is necessary. I do to polish the saddle up though.
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#22
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Since you know what perfect action for you feels like on your Larrivee, I would recommend you take your guitar to a good tech and have him set it up after watching your playing style. A good tech will have the tools and expertise to dial it in for you. It's a worthwhile investment to improve your playing experience IMO. I imagine the tone of the new guitar will still pale to the sound of your Larrivee though. |
#23
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What I do is fret dress (or at least check the fret level and crown situation) which in my world requires taking the strings off, adjusting the truss rod so the neck is as straight as it can be, then leveling and polishing the frets. Then I string her up, tune to pitch, check/set the nut action. I use the fret at three, check over one method. Unless you play up past the 5th fret most of the time, action feel comes mostly from the nut for open position work. Next, with the strings at pitch, I set the relief with the truss rod. I usually look for barely any relief, around .005" under a string with the string fretted at 1 and 14. If the player is looking for a moderate to slightly high action and plays hard, I would increase that a few thou. I find that too much relief tends to get buzzy around the 5th fret and higher with low action. Then I set the action and finally check the intonation. Lots of good words written about how to sand a saddle, but it's both intuitive as to how to do it right, and not hard at all. Many people have two saddles made up, one for summer and one for winter. Action height and string gauge influences intonation, so you may feel the need to adjust the break point of the string over the saddle, or not. Relief influences action height, so if you've done a full setup with impeccable skill and cunning, and it's buzzy after a few weeks (particularly if the buzz is at the first or second fret), check the relief first, my guitars (which I am currently keeping with stupidly low action due to left hand nerve damage) get the truss rod tweaked regularly.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. Last edited by MC5C; 02-27-2021 at 09:11 AM. |
#24
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I presume, since you ask, that you're not experienced doing acoustic set-ups, so I'd recommend taking it in for a set-up with a *reputable* guitar tech who can evaluate all of that. Most of the time, they can do everything for about $40-$50 bucks (unless there are further defects). Well worth the time & trouble.
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Larrivee L-10 Custom Larrivee DV-10K Larrivee L-03 Taylor 412K ('96) Yamaha LL16-12 (SOLD) PRS 'Studio' (SOLD) Rickenbacker 660-12 (SOLD) Fender USA Deluxe Strat Fender USA Roadhouse Strat Fender MIM/USA Partscaster Fender MIM Nashville Tele Kelsey Custom Hardtail Strat Fender MIM P-Bass |
#25
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#26
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