How rough is the top of an X20

nedley · #1 03-05-2019, 09:19 PM

The last few days I’ve been laying my X20 woodie with fingerpicks that are metal. I noticed that I’m hitting the top with them in the area where there is normally a hole.
It’s got me wondering if I should put a clear stick-on pick guard on there to protect it from getting hacked up by the pics? (Or is a the top tough enough that any scratches I make would buff out)?

What do the Emerald experts think?

Thx

nedley · #2 03-05-2019, 09:23 PM

Title should be “how tough is the top” not how rough, i know it’s smooth..

jdinco · #3 03-05-2019, 10:40 PM

Dang, I thought we had a question I could answer there for a minute.

You may be a pioneer in the playing an Emerald with a metal pick field. So, you'll probably have to tell us the answer in the future. Sorry I'm no help. Good luck...

Captain Jim · #4 03-05-2019, 11:03 PM

I guess I think of the finish on my Emeralds like the clear coat on a nice automobile... well, maybe more like the finish on a nice boat. If it were me (and it isn't), I would be using one of those thin cling-on pick guards with anything metal. Worse case scenario would be finish scratches that you may be able to buff out.

I use acrylic and casein picks with my guitars and haven't noticed any unusual wear. I have a couple cling-on guards I use with my wood guitars, but haven't felt the need with my CFs

GuitarLuva · #5 03-05-2019, 11:27 PM

It's probably a polyurethane finish or something similar so I would not be using a metal pick without a pickguard IMO. Send Emerald a quick email I'm sure they can advise you better.

Danz567 · #6 03-06-2019, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nedley

The last few days I’ve been laying my X20 woodie with fingerpicks that are metal. I noticed that I’m hitting the top with them in the area where there is normally a hole.
It’s got me wondering if I should put a clear stick-on pick guard on there to protect it from getting hacked up by the pics? (Or is a the top tough enough that any scratches I make would buff out)?

What do the Emerald experts think?

Thx

I used to use metal picks a long time ago. Now I go to a nails shop and get them to put a thick coat of acrylic on my nails. They are great, feel natural, and are always with you.

#7 03-06-2019, 10:12 AM

You definitely need a guard of some sort. I brush the face of my guitars when I strum, Over time I begin to see those brush marks. It's like those car washes that have brushes roll down and wash the side of your car--after so many washes the brush strokes start showing up. I suspect that any type of pick play would require some sort of guard.

kramster · #8 03-06-2019, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvanB

some sort of guard.

I say "on guard!"...if I were too say that is.

#9 03-06-2019, 07:20 PM

And that is what you said.

BT55 · #10 03-06-2019, 08:42 PM

Personally I would find a standard pickguard that would “disappear” when installed. The top is CF so any pickguard with 3M adhesive would protect the top and could be removed without damaging the guitar. I made a CF truss rod cover for my Rainsong and it looks awesome because you can’t see it.

nedley · #11 03-06-2019, 11:36 PM

Thanks everyone, those are the answers I expected.
The reason I asked is, 1) I don’t like the looks of pick guards and 2) a few years ago I picked up a used Rainsong for a great deal. The shop that sold it to me told me the top was had been majorly scratched up but they made it look perfect using one of those buffers that they use on cars.

That makes me wonder if any damage I could do the the x20could be buffed out (hence no pick guard needed)

Is there a clear pick guard people would suggest?

Thx ned

#12 03-07-2019, 10:20 AM

StuMac carries an ultra thin clear Mylar guard that I've used with most of my guitars--you have to look really close to even see it. The guard is adhesive so you have to be careful in its application. I cut out paper guards of the shape I want then use the paper guard as a template for cutting the Mylar. It's not as easy as the cling-on guards, but it lasts.

Before using guards, I would occasionally rub out the brush marks--but you can only do that so many times before you rub through the finish.

GuitarLuva · #13 03-07-2019, 03:31 PM

This thread got me looking. I use celluloid picks these days but after reading your post I decided to have a closer look at the soundboard of my X30 particularly where I strum. Sure enough scratches. With the wife and kids away for the day I decided to show some love to the guitar. First polished the body of the guitar than I got thinking why don't I try a coat of turtle wax, something I've never done before on a guitar. Wonder how well it will protect the finish from scratches. Also polished the frets with a dremel now it plays like butter.

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#14 03-07-2019, 03:57 PM

Gutarluva;

Looks pretty good, too.

I prefer an auto polish rather than wax. Wax tends to build up in some areas and collect grit. Also, I've found that wax on the neck slows down hand action.

GuitarLuva · #15 03-07-2019, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvanB

Gutarluva;

Looks pretty good, too.

I prefer an auto polish rather than wax. Wax tends to build up in some areas and collect grit. Also, I've found that wax on the neck slows down hand action.

Thanks Evan. Let me elaborate a little more. I first used auto polish (good ol' Meguiars) to remove some of the scratches. Then I put the turtle wax just on the top of the polish on the guitar top only. The neck and the rest of the guitar is just polish only.