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  #1  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:54 PM
CedarRiverPete CedarRiverPete is offline
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Default Hot Hide Glue Gram Strength?

Hello - I plan to try HHG for a couple of acoustic bridge replacements. One of which needs a new bridge plate as well.

I noticed there are various gram strengths available. Looks like the higher the number, the stronger the bond and less likely to creep under stress. If I'm reading the data correct, higher gram strengths also set up faster, so you need to work quickly to get things clamped.

Seems 192 is recommended as an all purpose HHG. How about for bridges and bridge plates?

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:54 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Short answer: use Titebond (or similar AR glue) until you've learned how to do this. Even with heating the parts to be glued, there isn't much open time to fumble with it prior to the glue gelling. Once you've glued a few and are confident in the process, then add the complexity of working with hot hide glue.

Otherwise, your research is correct but for the information on creep. My understanding is that one of the primary reasons to use hot hide glue is that it does not creep.

Last edited by charles Tauber; 03-06-2014 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:50 PM
CedarRiverPete CedarRiverPete is offline
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I've done a few bridges with Titebond. Haven't tried the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, which doesn't seem to get high reviews for bridge work.

I'm pretty confident I can get everything properly aligned, and clamped within one minute. If I go with HHG, I intend to just glue some "stuff" just to get a feel for how it behaves. There has to be a first time at some point. If it's a fail, it's not all that hard to remove the bridge.

I'll likely take your advice in regards to the bridge plate. I'll time a few dry runs for sport and see if can I do it.

Thanks for the reply, appreciate the feedback.
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:07 AM
clinchriver clinchriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
Short answer: use Titebond (or similar AR glue) until you've learned how to do this. Even with heating the parts to be glued, there isn't much open time to fumble with it prior to the glue gelling. Once you've glued a few and are confident in the process, then add the complexity of working with hot hide glue.

Otherwise, your research is correct but for the information on creep. My understanding is that one of the primary reasons to use hot hide glue is that it does not creep.
Its not that hard, do a perfect dry fit, make sure everything is aligned. I slightly preheat the top (careful with the finish), and get the bridge pretty warm. I use 315 gram strength HHG.
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Last edited by clinchriver; 03-07-2014 at 06:31 AM.
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