#16
|
|||
|
|||
I saw a video by Byudzai where he effortlessly changes strings on a pinless X-20 or X-30. After experiencing the difficulties of string changing, I am now more impressed with his coordination.
__________________
1966 Fender Mustang 2005 Takamine TF341DLX 2006 Hamer Artist Korina P90 2008 Taylor 814CE 2020 Emerald X-30 |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
so .... I've thought about this topic long and hard and feel that this is the right time to share my story ... I ordered a custom X-20-12 at the end of 2018. Lots of promises that it would be quick to build. It was not. Communication between Emerald and myself was only when I initiated it, not a good sign when you have a custom instrument. It was finally delivered in October of 2019. Not a great start. Upon opening the guitar I noticed problems with the pickup system that had been installed. Wires were unconnected, and the battery was flopping loose inside the guitar. I never played it. It went back across the pond to be finished. It was March when I again had the guitar. It plays so nicely and the sound is amazing. Come June I go to change the original strings. Uh oh .... I can't remove some of the strings (because of how the pinless bridge was designed, the grooves are too tight), I go back and forth with Emerald as to what to do, no solutions work, so again back across the pond. I'm told there is no problem - they change the strings. I see the guitar again early summer and enjoy it for a few months before changing strings and oh oh .... same problem, this time the discussion is more heated and pointed, and I'm reminded that it is now more than a year old and there is nothing they can do, even though I've actually not had it in my possession for a year due to several trips across the pond. After more discussion, back across the pond it goes, several months pass and I'm told it is fixed, so I ask what was done for it to be fixed, apparently the pinless bridge was completely redone. Finally it comes back and I enjoy a few months of playing again and yes, this time I can actually change strings. I was disappointed that at no point in the many conversations that took place did Alistair admit that there were problems with his pinless bridge design. I've played guitar for over 50 years and owned a number of pinless bridge instruments that have never had a problem when removing or adding strings. I was also disappointed in Alistair's unwillingness to just make it right especially as this was a custom instrument. I agree with many of the above comments, it is a not a quick and easy task to replace strings with the current design of the pinless bridge. I not maligning Emerald, as I love their instruments and appreciate Alistair's innovations. I just think that his pinless bridge design needs to be tweaked. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Thanks for sharing jdrnd!
__________________
Larrivee SD-40s: Moonwood/R, Moonwood/M, All-Hog, Standard/M Larrivee D-03 Alvarez AD30 - Yamaha F310 - Jasmine S35 - PRS SE P20E Parlor Martin Backpacker |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Hey Guys - since I had received a new pack of D’Addario EJ19s (uncoated version of the stock EXP-19s) and I was curious about whether the change would impact the tone, I decided to try another string change.
With the improvements I made this time, I was able to change all 6 strings in 20 minutes - although still longer than what I can do with a conventional guitar with bridge pins, I was not displeased this time. A few notes: - I still was unable to secure the ball end and trim/wind the strings without using a bridge pin to help - With the exception of the 6th string, I was able to secure all of the ball ends using the Emerald method of latching from the outside. The 56 gauge 6th string just would not secure and I had to reach into the sound hole to secure it - I easily wasted 3 minutes on this alone. - Remember how I wrote above about how I would use the bridge pin and sometimes after I added tension the ball end would come out? I realized I made a very silly mistake which contributed to this. I was using the bridge pin and I instinctively put the grooved side of the pin oriented towards the neck which is the way you would always do it if it had bridge pins - bad idea - turning it around 180 degrees so the groove is pointing towards the lower bout fixed the problem - I didn’t have the ball end come out a single time when I brought it up to tension changing it this way. Oh, and BTW - aside from just a touch more finger squeak, I think the EJ19s seem to be just as good as the EXPs
__________________
Larrivee SD-40s: Moonwood/R, Moonwood/M, All-Hog, Standard/M Larrivee D-03 Alvarez AD30 - Yamaha F310 - Jasmine S35 - PRS SE P20E Parlor Martin Backpacker |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
I've made the first string change on my new X-20 with the pinless bridge and experienced what many of you did. Even with the golf tee in the hole the ball end would sometimes pop out, and a couple of times it popped out after I removed the golf tee. As suggested I had bent the end of the string, but evidently not enough. Here is an image of the underside of the bridge:
inside.jpg The treble side is on the left. You can see the tip of the golf tee in the treble e-string hole. I took this image after the B string popped out. I'm hoping this image illustrates the problem. The G and D strings (3rd and 4th from left) are seated pretty well, but the bass E string (far right) really isn't. And you can see that the golf tee doesn't really get down into the hole deep enough. A custom made pin would work better. Anyway, I found what works best is to not just bend the string, but curve it, like this: string.jpg As you insert the string into the hole the ball will curve more into the slot and catch. That is probably what the unfrustrated people in this thread have been doing. Hopefully this will help the rest of us. |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
some great tips already given. another to consider on pinless bridges is to use a capo instead of trying to maintain tension on the string with your free hand as you pass it through the machine head, the capo keeps enough tension as to keep the string in place until tightened
__________________
Don 1929 SS Stewart Pro Archtop 1921 G Houghton Archtop Banjo 2007 George Rizsanyi Custom Maple Banjo Killer 2017 James Malejczuk Custom OM Black Limba 1980 Norman B50-12 Norman B-20 Recording King single 0 1996 Takamine 1967 Yam G-130 Melvina 1980s Seagull S6 Cedar 2003 Briarwood 1970s Eko Maple 1982 Ovation 2020 Fender Telecaster Mandolin Yam THR5A Sienna 35 Kustom |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
One of these days I’m going to have to tackle the Amicus. It can’t be harder than a 12-string Rickenbacker, can it?
IMG_1962.jpg
__________________
Martin 0-16NY Emerald Amicus Emerald X20 Cordoba Stage Some of my tunes: https://youtube.com/user/eatswodo Last edited by David Eastwood; 01-30-2022 at 04:12 PM. |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
Piece of cake
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Makes me glad I got my Amicus during the stone age period of bridge pins.
Sweet little instrument for sure! |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
I see this pinless bridge as a typical example of form over function, solving a non-existing issue by creating new ones
My process is to start from the headstock securing the string on the peg with a few rotations (after I checked the length I needed). Only then I insert the ball end. I check under the bridge if the ball end sits firmly in place and force it in its slot if needed. Then I finish winding while keeping the string in tension. It works ok but I still prefer standard bridge pins... even if it doesn't look as sleek |
#27
|
||||
|
||||
I'll try curving the ball-ends before my next string change, but I changed the strings on my pines X20 last week. The high E took some doing, but the others readily fell into place...
__________________
Emerald X20 Emerald X20-12 Fender Robert Cray Stratocaster Martin D18 Ambertone Martin 000-15sm |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
I’m with you on the Form/Function assessment Tof.
Love my Emeralds, all equipped with the now passe bridge pins. |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Just changed them on the Amicus with the pinless bridge and all went great....until the very thin high "D" strings. 2 of them broke. I got replacements from Newtone - seems like it was more of a string issue than a bridge issue.
__________________
Collings Parlor 1T Breedlove Legacy Concertina Emerald X7 Emerald X10 Slim Emerald X12 Northfield Big Mon PRS S2 McCarty Slimline PRS JA-15 Collings I30 LC |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Good to hear! I need to order from Newtone - my Amicus is long overdue. Maybe I’ll order a couple of extra 1st strings as a precaution.
__________________
Martin 0-16NY Emerald Amicus Emerald X20 Cordoba Stage Some of my tunes: https://youtube.com/user/eatswodo |