Cordoba C12 Difficult to Play (high action/tension?)

[Noah_963]

Hey guys,

I've owned a cordoba c12 for a couple years and while I absolutely love the sound and it is generally easy to play on the lower frets, it can be a big pain in the butt to go past like the 5th fret.

The vast majority of classical guitars I've played in stores play a lot more easily (I specifically enjoy playing the Cordoba c5 every time). My uncle also owns an old cheap Takamine classical guitar that I'd honestly trade for the $1700 Cordoba. It plays like butter and sounds amazing.

I know this is probably a really dumb and common question and the answer is just to go have it setup by a professional, but I'm just wondering if a simple truss rod adjustment (I think I could reduce the relief a little bit but I'm not sure if that would even make a difference on the tension problem) would help to get the action lower or if I need to sand down the saddle/nut (which I'm terrified to do) or what.

The main issue is that the strings just feel so tight and difficult to keep down. I don't think I've been buying high tension strings or something, I've tried a couple different kinds. It's just when I play other classical guitars it just feels really nice. I own a Cordoba GK as well, and yes that plays like butter but I really want the deep and loud sound of the C12 with at least slightly similar playability to the GK.

As another example, some other classical guitars I've played the strings are so loose that they can roll back and forth a little bit. I don't want that exactly but I'd like to be able to actually get sounds out of my bar chords on higher frets without breaking my fingers.


TL;DR: Strings are really tight and action is too high at higher frets. Is this just the nature of this guitar or can this be fixed by taking it to a professional.

EDIT: I know action is fairly easy to change but the overall tension of the strings is also a big issue

[charles Tauber]

Take it to a professional for a setup. He or she will be able to determine if you have enough saddle height to lower it to achieve your preferred string height. He or she should also check the string height at the nut and lower it if it is high.

The truss rod is there only to adjust the amount of curvature in the neck, not to adjust string height.

If you want to take measurements of the string height on the guitar who's action you like, and take measurement on the one that is too high, you can determine how much the one that is too high needs to be lowered and if there is enough saddle to do so. If you want to do that, I can tell you how to do so.

[Noah_963]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Take it to a professional for a setup. He or she will be able to determine if you have enough saddle height to lower it to achieve your preferred string height. He or she should also check the string height at the nut and lower it if it is high.

The truss rod is there only to adjust the amount of curvature in the neck, not to adjust string height.

If you want to take measurements of the string height on the guitar who's action you like, and take measurement on the one that is too high, you can determine how much the one that is too high needs to be lowered and if there is enough saddle to do so. If you want to do that, I can tell you how to do so.

Thats a good point! I should try to compare the height of mine to one I enjoy playing. I was also looking around for some "low tension" strings so I might try a set of those next time I switch them and see if it helps. I think overall I'm just gonna take it to someone when I get the chance, it's just a bit of a drive to the nearest guitar luthier so I've been putting it off.

Thanks for the help!

[sirwhale]

I once played a Cordoba C10 crossover that had a really high string angle over the saddle. The saddle was very high but something wasn't right with the production because the action was so bad. Anyway, the strings felt very stiff, stiffer than I've ever tried and I thought it was to do with this harsh angle over the saddle.

But yes, take it to get set up and ask the technician about the correct strings to use. I would definitely measure the action on the guitars you like so you can tell the technician what you want. Measure it at the 12th fret from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string.

You might also have to have work on the nut to lower the strings there too.

[Pat Foster]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Take it to a professional for a setup. He or she will be able to determine if you have enough saddle height to lower it to achieve your preferred string height. He or she should also check the string height at the nut and lower it if it is high.

The truss rod is there only to adjust the amount of curvature in the neck, not to adjust string height.

If you want to take measurements of the string height on the guitar who's action you like, and take measurement on the one that is too high, you can determine how much the one that is too high needs to be lowered and if there is enough saddle to do so. If you want to do that, I can tell you how to do so.

If you do the measurements like Charles said, remember that any change needed for the string height at the 12th fret needs to be doubled at the saddle. If you need to bring the strings down 1mm at the 12th fret, 2mm will need to come off the saddle. Also, a common problem that arises when the saddle is lowered is that there might not be enough of a break angle (where the string cross over the saddle) to maintain good tone. Also, also is the string height above the top. If it gets too low, the tone could be affected. We don't get no free lunches.

[SirMrGuitarDude]

I somewhat solved this issue on my C9. The open position was comfortable to play but from 5th fret and up the action was too high. Adding some back bow via truss rod adjustment straightened the neck perfectly flat and in the case of this guitar it lowered the frets from 5th fret and up. Just an eight of a turn each day for 3 days, and I ended up where I wanted. I'm not sure if this part is true but a guitar tech told me to massage the neck the direction I want it to move after each truss rod adjustment so I do that too. Just tiny adjustments and check how it holds the following day couldn't hurt.

[mrfixitmi]

Noah,

Did you have success with your setup?

My son loves his C12 SP, but we had higher action out of the box than he preferred. The neck seemed to have loosened during shipping. The luthier shaved the saddle down a little and tightened the neck, after he was done it plays well.
In School, his professor was not happy that he purchased the Cordoba, but for the money, we could not touch a lattice braced classical guitar for that price. Once it was set up, the professor actually recommended the C12 to other students.

This is an old clip when he got the guitar back after set up.
https://youtu.be/Jildd9osb6A

[ObiWanSymbian]

I'm not sure about the 12, but 10's and below have a truss-rod.
Make sure it's tightened/released properly for the neck release.
Then have someone look at your saddle height.
The general trend for classical is:

- Oh, it's so uncofortable to play.I want my action lowered

After a while

- Oh, I want it to be louder, I want my action increased;-)

Good luck!!

[MarkinLA]

Hi.
I've played a C10 for about 7 years now.. At first I went through the very same feelings you are incurring.. After a while that went away for me...
Two things I believe you're experiencing are that the nut slots I believe are shallower (strings higher above the fingerboard) than most guitars at the nut, and the strings they come with are higher tension than other guitars come with.
I always wanted to have a pro deepen my nut slots but never did.. And tho I have D'addario J46 HTs on her now and do sound great, I may likely go back to the Savarez Crystal Corums they recommend, as the bass seems to be deeper on them than the D'adds...
If you hang in there I believe you'll get more and more accustomed to your Cordoba.
M

[TBman]

When I first got my C5 from Sweetwater, I took most of the relief out and that fixed everything for me. I do have nut slot files and I have done a few saddle adjustments, but in this case I didn't have to.

I would take the guitar in for a setup and have low tension strings put on also and then go from there.

[nikpearson]

Most classical instruments easily with a typical action of 4mm on the low-E and 3m, on the high-E. You can go lower but this is likely to cause some buzzing with more dynamic pieces from the classical repertoire.

Before adjusting the saddle height to achieve a good action, the neck relief and nut need checking. This is best done by a qualified tech or luthier; one who understands how classical instruments differ from steel-string electric and acoustic guitars.

I’d also suggest trying a set of regular/normal tension strings from DAddario: Pro Arte EJ45. They’re not everyone’s favourite, but are a good starting point to see if you prefer lower or higher tension strings. Unlike with steel strings, normal tension can vary quite a bit between string brands.

It’s helpful that with your Cordoba instrument there is an adjustable truss rod. That way neck relief can be dialled in perfectly for the string type and tension.

[MarkinLA]

~~~~ MY SIMPLE CONCLUSION ABOUT TRUSS RODS ~~~~

If they had thought of or were even able to make truss rods (W/their adjust.nut) back in the 14th-15th century (which requires a router they didn't yet have / an auger bit not feasible), guitars would have included truss rods..
Ebony became the 'go-to' fingerboard-wood for being most resistant against warpage/twisting of the neck this side of iron (steel/aluminum centuries later)...Even the first frets were gut, sometimes string, or even bamboo.
But I'd venture to say the first metal used on chordophones [sp?], which is what genre the guitar/mandolin/lute are, had to have been the frets, long before the truss rod...

M, Los Angeles

[Cordoba fan]

I just got my new C10 from Strings by mail. Matt there thought it out and set me up with light strings and he lowered my bone saddle. Wondering what Matt did exactly, I found full explanations on YouTube. I was curious how much a bone saddle cost in case one were to mess it up, Surprisingly, they are generally less than $20, and the process not complicated. Yet, one with experience would know when to stop, as string choice (in my cast... light) has to function with in action variances (a tad more action needed for light than for high tension to avoid fretting noise). I wonder if a bleached or unbleached bone makes a noticable difference?

Lastly, put a capo at your first fret and see if your like that change in action. Not going to get lower than that. BTW, that is not a pattented trick I thought of.....

[MarkinLA]

I wish you good luck with light strings on a C10..
Apparently this guitar is built in such a way that in order for it to really sound the way it was meant to it requires hard tension stings such as the Savarez HT Crystal Corums it comes with from Cordoba..
As I mention above I play a C10 and have had light and medium strings on her and always seem to wind up back with HTs..