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#16
02-26-2012, 03:19 AM
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This one has the square one.
 Start baking your tops and brace wood. Bake it, freeze it, bake it, until it looses its ability to act like a sponge. Then build with it. Check out baked maple, or vulcanized maple, and head that direction. And just ignore everybody who says that it is a bad idea, that have never used it. Maybe having the fingerboard extension cantilevered over the top is not a bad idea? And don't use ebony? See baked maple above. Or vulcanize an ebony board and see how brittle it gets? Maybe? I don't know if I would trust a dovetail, put in spruce, with the grain running that direction? But I have not tried it either. There is one way to find out if it will work or not.  The shim shaping thing is just a little bit of chalk, and a lot of patience. I would like to say that I have never had to grind the shims off, put on new ones, and start over. But that's part of the fun of doing this stuff. It seems like they have the advantage when they put the neck on at the factory. Because the finish is still a little bit wet, and the cheeks of the heel sink into it a little bit, making the fit look good. Once you take it apart and start sanding on it, any little imperfection shows up. And I chipped off a little piece of finish on the passenger side of the heel. Oh well! It's just an old Martin, and that's all the better we are going to get it to look today. If this model did not come with a strap button, then somebody all ready destroyed the vintage value of the thing anyway.   New bone saddle, and unslotted ebony pins.  I did say that I would do better with the pins on the next one. I would not go any higher with the saddle then that. There is 7/32" of saddle sticking out of the bridge. The action is set at 3 1/2/32" and 2 1/2/32". And the saddle has more radius to it then it needs. If I was going to set it up for the way I would like it, I would chop .040" off of the bottom of the saddle and flatten the radius on the top of it a little bit. But its not mine. And I would guess that by the end of this summer it is going to need the frets leveled on it again. So your probably going to loose a little bit more saddle there.  And there it is in all it's glory. It should be good for at least another 25 years. It might need another fret job, or two. Next fret job, I think we should go with stainless. It sounds great. It alway has. I'm not really a Martin fan, but if I was going to buy one, it would be this one. But I don't think you will see it coming up for sale, any time soon.  And that is all there is, to doing a simple bridge re-glue. Thanks for watching. Glen 
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